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  #21  
Old July 21st, 2008, 05:28 PM
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Gery
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Back in the day had a Chapman lock on my Jeep YJ. It locked the hood and when locked, the engine wouldn't start. It was cheap and it worked for my needs.
It saved it from getting stolen on the streets of Boston.
I did a quick Google search, but I couldn't find the version I had but I'm sure it's still out there for sale.
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  #22  
Old August 11th, 2008, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
Yes, the parts you see in the image are all stock NAS 110 bits in the stock NAS 110 location (just installed in a 90 in that image).
The Rover switch is SERIOUSLY costly though. You can do a nice battery cut off in lots of cheaper ways. Hella makes one with a key, but it is plastic. You can also do a nice one that goes on the batt. terminal that has a knob that unscrews a little to disconnect. I have one of those on my buggy and it works great and was just a few bucks.
Was looking at eBay...is this close to the item you were talking about? Do you need to see what it is rated or would it not matter since it is on the battery?

I have been having issues with battery depletion for my Def90 and classic car so may go this route. Since this is the cab guessing it would not be very suitable for anti theft unless they dont know to dig under the driver box.

http://tinyurl.com/5tct7k
Item number: 120290723307
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  #23  
Old March 26th, 2010, 12:11 AM
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Anyone got a part number for the OEM 110 battery cut off and gaurd? Is this a Rovers North stocked item?
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  #24  
Old March 27th, 2010, 01:26 PM
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My new one...
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  #25  
Old March 28th, 2010, 02:45 AM
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I'll throw another variation out there: when I was involved in racing, we used battery master switches that had to have the ability to also disable the alternator. The purpose being that in an accident or a rollover and the corner workers came over to pull you from the wreckage, they wanted to be able to turn the car off. If the engine is running and the alternator is functioning, the engine may stay running, even with the battery "disconected". I think they were made by Hella.
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  #26  
Old March 28th, 2010, 08:54 AM
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I have put mine on the air duct, just on the right side of the steering column.
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  #27  
Old March 28th, 2010, 11:11 AM
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Michael Sabanovich
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Mine is on the battery and I have to take the seat out everytime I disable it.. I bought the Hella but cannot find the correct cables.. any idea where to get just the cables?
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  #28  
Old March 28th, 2010, 07:14 PM
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Tom Rowe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverlab View Post
I'll throw another variation out there: when I was involved in racing, we used battery master switches that had to have the ability to also disable the alternator.
The Cole-Hersee 2000amp model is also available in a 2-pole version, one of the poles to support disconnecting the Alternator.
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  #29  
Old March 29th, 2010, 03:32 PM
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Mikeybob, ck with the guys at rallylights.com They are Hella dealers in PA and usually have an inventory of bits and wiring diagrams. But what do you mean by the correct cables?
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  #30  
Old March 29th, 2010, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverlab View Post
But what do you mean by the correct cables?

I just want to make sure that the cables from the battery to the switch and back can handle the amps.
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  #31  
Old March 29th, 2010, 08:58 PM
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Just go buy a couple feet of bulk cable from West Marine or Lowes. It's usually a few bucks a foot, but you don't need much and you can walk out with it. You'll have to buy a couple connectors for the ends too, but if you measure it out beforehand, you can probably get them to crimp the ends on for you too.
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