Battery connecting block???? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 24th, 2011, 07:52 PM
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Battery connecting block????

Is there some sort of block that can be mounted on the frame or bulkhead ( or maybe a single block ) that will allow me to extend the Winch cables to reach the battery ( I am trying to avoid the connect / disconnect one )

thanks
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  #2  
Old January 24th, 2011, 07:56 PM
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Tony Lawson
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you mean like a bus bar?

try a boat supply yard/chandlery or West Marine (they seem to be everywhere, even inland)
one brand: http://bluesea.com/category/9/35
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  #3  
Old January 24th, 2011, 08:03 PM
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Tony , not exactly , thanks


I guess a simple way will be , lets say I want to connect the Pos and Neg wires from the winch, to a mounting point that it is not the battery and it is located on the firewall

I can live with both cables side by side or individually
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Old January 24th, 2011, 08:30 PM
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I'm confused what you are looking for. Are you looking for a Land Rover original part? or aftermarket?

Sounds like you are looking for a block(s) to mount the winch wires too (positive and negative - but obviously the two can't be electrically common). Then it sounds like you want to run power from the battery to that block(s)

which is generally done with items like:
http://bluesea.com/category/9/35/pro...e/overview/399 - most compact option. Need two, one for positive, one for negative
or both in one:
http://bluesea.com/category/9/35/productline/186

Mcmaster-Carr also carries "Distribution bars" that are similar http://www.mcmaster.com/#power-distr...n-bars/=aqids8

forgive me if I am completely missing your point in what you are looking for.

or are you looking for the wire itself?
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:04 PM
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Gus the cables on the winch now will be undersized to go all the way to the battery. So they need to be changed anyway.
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:42 PM
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Pardon the sketch but this is what I want to do, to connect those 4 wires
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  #7  
Old January 24th, 2011, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugbier View Post
Pardon the sketch but this is what I want to do, to connect those 4 wires
goose...give me a call in the AM, I can help you out

frank
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  #8  
Old January 24th, 2011, 09:55 PM
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Frank,

call you tomorrow ... early like 6:00 am my time *LOL*

Thanks
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:59 PM
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What is the recommended size from winch to batt?
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  #10  
Old January 24th, 2011, 10:37 PM
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I guess you mean a thru bulkhead fitting?

https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content..._connector.php

https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content...ngle_salon.gif
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Old January 24th, 2011, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Bill I like it, now how about without going through the bulkhead? let say, I want to meet the wire leads on the bulkhead outrigger?
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Old January 25th, 2011, 12:37 AM
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Run 0g cable to the starter hot lead. Connect winch to starter hot lead. Just an idea
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Old January 25th, 2011, 05:19 AM
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Goose, I used a racing battery cutoff switch as my bus bar, that way I can kill power to the winch when not in use.
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  #14  
Old January 25th, 2011, 06:01 AM
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http://bluesea.com/category/9/38/pro...e/overview/400

Use the model 2018 which has one of each size post. Order thru Jamestown Distributors or Defender.
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  #15  
Old January 25th, 2011, 06:16 AM
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Why add a weak link to such a vital component? Putting a connection point where it is subject to dirt and water ingress doesn't help anything. It sounds like you are trying to avoid changing the cables to a larger gauge. No matter how you set it up you are going to need 20some feet of heavy cable. Run them straight to the battery. You can put a heavy switch in there for safety purposes. And/or one of the fancy Blue Sea terminal boxes that are popular. But put it in the battery box or the engine bay if must be. Down by the chassis is no place for such a device.
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  #16  
Old January 25th, 2011, 07:47 AM
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I agree with Dave on this. The best thing is new cables of 2 gauge or fatter of marine tinned copper. The lugs should also be tinned copper and securely crimped. These ends should be covered with either the heavy wall MIL spec adhesive lined shrink tube or marine grade adhesive lined shrink. They should get terminal lug covers (boots) to prevent the possibility of a short. I like the cables to be secured every 6 inches or so along the runs, which I like the heavy duty nylon ones for. They can be attached with rivnuts.
Genuinedealz.com is my preferred source. I have the tools to make up heavy cables including the proper crimper for the lugs.
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  #17  
Old January 25th, 2011, 07:57 AM
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While i am not as extreme as bill, I do have 1/0 welding cable going back to the battery. 2 guage would be too small to go all the way from the winch to under the seatbox. I borrowed a trick from Jim Pendleton and ran the cables inside 7/8" heater hose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I agree with Dave on this. The best thing is new cables of 2 gauge or fatter of marine tinned copper. The lugs should also be tinned copper and securely crimped. These ends should be covered with either the heavy wall MIL spec adhesive lined shrink tube or marine grade adhesive lined shrink. They should get terminal lug covers (boots) to prevent the possibility of a short. I like the cables to be secured every 6 inches or so along the runs, which I like the heavy duty nylon ones for. They can be attached with rivnuts.
Genuinedealz.com is my preferred source. I have the tools to make up heavy cables including the proper crimper for the lugs.
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  #18  
Old January 25th, 2011, 08:28 AM
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I'm not sure why you don't want to go with the Warn disconnect. A nice advantage is that you can use the Warn jumper cables with the disconnect fitting.
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  #19  
Old January 25th, 2011, 07:34 PM
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While as pointed out it is the wrong way to do it, you can get screw butt connectors for heavy gauges at any Wesco.
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