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  #1  
Old August 31st, 2011, 02:18 PM
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Geoff
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Battery Compartment Project

Hi - fairly new here (great forum!!) and new to owning a NAS D110 and wanted to ask the experts some advice before I dive in to do some work on the battery compartment (one of a number of projects I'll be working on this weekend). I've upgraded the battery to an Odyssey PC2150, cleaned up the compartment, and was planning on doing the following: (1) upgrading all the cabling and the battery connectors (and key cables running to the engine compartment and battery cutoff, etc. as I have extra 0 gauge cabling), (2) would like to add heat/vibration treatment.

So a few questions: (1) Is the stock solenoid in the compartment for the Warn winch? the winch is not currently operational, perhaps this is the cause (or potentially the control unit up front on the brush guard - I purchased a new remote controller and it didn't help). I've seen pics of others' battery compartments of NAS D110's with this removed or disconnected, any benefit to taking it out of the equation or replacing it?, (2) what's the function of the brown wires in the lower left of the picture - I could trace them but figured you guys could easily tell me, (3) I've cleaned up the box, but there's a little rust at the bottom (perhaps an older battery leaked). what's the best way to treat/repair this (I don't want to send the whole compartment out for sanding/repainting), (4) in applying thermal/vibration materials, how aggressive should I / can I be in here. Just the top panel and bottom side of lid or would there be benefit to doing the sides or bottom (looks like there's some venting down there in the j-bar connector holes). I've seen some folks line the whole box, others leave it. I have Dynamat Xtreme and RAAMaudio materials available (both the vibration dampening and sound insulation).

Thanks!
Geoff

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  #2  
Old August 31st, 2011, 11:39 PM
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Chris Snell
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I didn't add any soundproofing or thermal protection and I've never had a problem. I did make up a custom bracket, though. Details here:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=26830
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  #3  
Old September 1st, 2011, 01:15 AM
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Geoff
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Very nice looking work! Appreciate the link to the thread. Ordered up a few of the parts tonight
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  #4  
Old September 1st, 2011, 01:05 PM
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kyle scheppler
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1. yes 2. dunno 3. the same way you would deal with any rusty metal object...apply rust solution and then spray some good 'ol rustoleum on it then spray paint it the color you want...no more ugly battery area...although thats not that bad by any means i must say....there are many many other ways to deal with that rust that im sure people will post

why do you feel the need to address heat/vibration?...i mean, what sparked the idea to do this? im just curious cause i plan on changing my 90 to dual batteries..and when i do that ill be messing with my compartment also
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  #5  
Old September 1st, 2011, 01:15 PM
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Geoff
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Thx for the response. I did order some rust spray rust treatment, Rustoleum, a wire brush drill tool (in case I need it) and some white rustoleum spray paint. So should do the trick. very minor rusting, but want to have the stuff in case I find other spots as I pull up all the carpets.
Will likely do some vibration/heat in the top side of the compartment and maybe the bottom (vibration and heat reduction for the battery which I think is a good thing in theory), and also to reduce cabin vibration which is purely for the audio system. Not looking to create an anechoic chamber for audiophile quality sound or anything, just quiet it down a little overall. So figured if I'm in there doing work.... why not
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Old September 1st, 2011, 03:52 PM
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kyle scheppler
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no totally agree i was just curious....i have my amp under my passenger seat...and since im working on my alternator right now, i figured i better check my battery compartment and as u can see i will be doing some of the same work you will be doing ...
thats why i want a dual battery set-up because look at all the audio cables/front bull bar hella lamp cables and a back spot light cable..all connected to the battery connections...dual set-up is the way to go in my case..
good luck

where else are you trying to reduce "rattling" "sound interference"...im interested in this..
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  #7  
Old September 2nd, 2011, 12:58 AM
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Geoff
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Good luck with the project! Going to get started on the battery project tomorrow. Going to put my amp under the passenger seat as well (got a class D amp, which is smaller and hopefully will stay cooler...)
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  #8  
Old September 2nd, 2011, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Ariesblu View Post
thats why i want a dual battery set-up because look at all the audio cables/front bull bar hella lamp cables and a back spot light cable..all connected to the battery connections...dual set-up is the way to go
What you really want is a single bad-ass battery like the Odyssey PC2150 or the Diehard Platinum PM-1. That's the way to go.
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  #9  
Old September 2nd, 2011, 07:29 AM
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If you are mounting an amp (or any other electronics) in either under seat compartment make sure you spend some time waterproofing as much as possible. I know that in mine there were some holes drilled by PO that I had to take care of. Of course, on my last trip to Rausch Creek the water we drove through came up over the passenger seat so I don't think that would've mattered!
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  #10  
Old September 2nd, 2011, 01:00 PM
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David Short
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I second what Jeff said... My quasi waterproof battery box carried a load of water and mud home from PA to VA after Rausch Creek. I had to bail it all out.

(Probably my own fault - I should learn not to follow Jeff any longer!)
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  #11  
Old September 2nd, 2011, 01:48 PM
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I completely agree with h20 proofing the passenger-side under seat compartment if you plan on placing our amp/amps in there...i can take a pic of my set up for you if you want....i recommend th e alpine PDX model amp because its size is not only VERY reasonable, but they are also stackable! so if you want another after figuring you want a little more kick from your sound you just stack it right on top of the other one....(they are made to stack)...not to mention they are bad-ass looking amps...
ky

------ Follow up post added September 2nd, 2011 10:51 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by jefhuf View Post
If you are mounting an amp (or any other electronics) in either under seat compartment make sure you spend some time waterproofing as much as possible. I know that in mine there were some holes drilled by PO that I had to take care of. Of course, on my last trip to Rausch Creek the water we drove through came up over the passenger seat so I don't think that would've mattered!


how about using that stuff I keep seeing on TV... "flexseal" ...liquid rubber....to water proof those compartments?? check it out if you dont know what im talking about....and i would be using that from the underbody from from inside the compartment....
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  #12  
Old September 2nd, 2011, 03:19 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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Yeah "Flexseal" You can row around on a screen door!!! As seen on TV
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  #13  
Old September 2nd, 2011, 03:25 PM
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Hi Geoff,

Attached is the wiring diagram for the power inturrupt solenoid that runs the winch. There should be a toggle switch connected to the red wire, this needs to be "on" to energize the solenoid so the winch works. If you have other questions about the winch send me an e-mail steves@warn.com
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  #14  
Old September 2nd, 2011, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayz View Post
Yeah "Flexseal" You can row around on a screen door!!! As seen on TV
Maybe I have seen that commercial too many times, but I am half tempted to order some just to see how well it really works!
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  #15  
Old September 2nd, 2011, 05:41 PM
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I dynamatted my box and was careful to lap the seams which makes for a pretty watertight compartment. For the wire penetrations I used these;http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...cor_wire_seals

I also opted for the Odyssey single battery as it left enogh room for a marine fuseblock and relays.
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  #16  
Old September 2nd, 2011, 06:24 PM
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kyle scheppler
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Kevin, good call...ill probably go with the odyssey battery then...

ya Flexseal....you know that guy used like 200 cans of that stuff for that boat trick...hahaha jackass
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  #17  
Old September 7th, 2011, 09:31 PM
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Naah you just need a bilge pump and a water level sensor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Firemanshort
I second what Jeff said... My quasi waterproof battery box carried a load of water and mud home from PA to VA after Rausch Creek. I had to bail it all out.

(Probably my own fault - I should learn not to follow Jeff any longer!)
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  #18  
Old September 7th, 2011, 10:50 PM
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Geoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outfield View Post
Hi Geoff,

Attached is the wiring diagram for the power inturrupt solenoid that runs the winch. There should be a toggle switch connected to the red wire, this needs to be "on" to energize the solenoid so the winch works. If you have other questions about the winch send me an e-mail steves@warn.com
thanks Steve very helpful. I'll have to go searching for the toggle switch, haven't seen it yet despite having taken a good look.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Ariesblu View Post
I completely agree with h20 proofing the passenger-side under seat compartment if you plan on placing our amp/amps in there...i can take a pic of my set up for you if you want....i recommend th e alpine PDX model amp because its size is not only VERY reasonable, but they are also stackable! so if you want another after figuring you want a little more kick from your sound you just stack it right on top of the other one....(they are made to stack)...not to mention they are bad-ass looking amps...
ky
Kyle - went with a very similar amp, the JL Audio D-class amp JL XD400/4 (figured if it was going in the compartment a high efficiency low temp class D or class T amp). Main reason I went with the JL is that I had read some feedback that the Alpine got a little warm. JL like Alpine has a pretty solid reputation as well. Would be interested in seeing a picture of the setup if you get a chance to post.


I had posted a couple pic's on another thread but here's the before, middle after pics of the battery project. I will probably Dynamat the sides of the compartment as well (and make sure to seal it well, but want to finish the tie-down and audio wiring first). Will do a full dynamat of the passenger side to seal it as well before the amp install, and plan to do the doors/floors/firewalls as well (w/ RAAMaudio materials, both the vibration dampener as well as the acoustic barrier).
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  #19  
Old September 8th, 2011, 07:36 AM
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Tom Rowe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outfield View Post
Attached is the wiring diagram for the power inturrupt solenoid that runs the winch.
What's the rating of that solenoid? The highest capacity ones I've seen of that type are only 200amp continuous, which isn't anywhere near sufficient for a typical vehicle mounted winch.
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  #20  
Old September 8th, 2011, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
What's the rating of that solenoid? The highest capacity ones I've seen of that type are only 200amp continuous, which isn't anywhere near sufficient for a typical vehicle mounted winch.
Yeah, I'm scratching my head wondering how the "Power Interrupter Kit" is an improvement over a simple battery ON/OFF switch. No solenoids, two terminals, and all the power flow you need.
The Odyssey 2150 delivers 1150 amps at 0F. 205 minutes at the 25amp rate. Very nice battery, made in the USA. Compare to Deka, and Trojan.

And Silverlight, lose the clamp terminals. If you need to split the loads/grounds use a BUS BAR! Max of two terminals per stud.

------ Follow up post added September 8th, 2011 08:25 AM ------

One thing, you do not want a battery box to be so tight that no air circulates. All batteries gas. Explosive gas. This is why you should be cautious about uncovered terminals in the battery compartment under the seat. A stray spark and POW! And tie down all the cables so they don't shift.
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