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  #1  
Old December 28th, 2011, 11:24 AM
JKC
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battery compartment makeover - finished!

This is a follow up to my original post on the battery compartment makeover. First Iíd like to say thanks for the advice I received from this forum and just wanted to show how it turned out. This really cleaned up the rats nest of wiring and made it much safer. These are items I used to organize my battery box:

- Cleaned with alcohol and then treated rusted areas with Ospho
- Filled all open holes with plastic plugs
- Lined with Eastwood Sound Deadener Spray #22742 (to deaden sound but more importantly waterproof)
- Lined with Dynomat extreme (for sound and heat resistance)
- Dual 80 amp breaker (Absolute 2DCB80) one input /2 outputs
- 12v continuos duty weatherproof Cole Hersee solenoid
- 2 Blue Sea Systems fuse blocks
1. 12 fuse (#5029) unit for all accessories which are switched on with the solenoid
2. 6 fuse unit(#5025) with ground has 12 volt power all the time, for the alarm system

I mounted all the pieces to a single plate so I did not have to drill a bunch of holes for each item in the battery box. Hope this helps with anyone looking to do a similar project.
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  #2  
Old December 28th, 2011, 11:37 AM
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Very nice.

My compartment has some rust along one bottom side of it, that rusted all the way through. Anyone have some ideas on a best way to repair this. I could drop in some plates to go on top of it, but thats only fixing the sympton not the problem, do they make replacement battery boxes that I could just cut the old one out and weld the new one in?

Also - where did you get the fuse blocks from? I dont have nearly as many accessories as you, but I would like to put in a block like that for future items and the few that i do have added on currently.
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Old December 28th, 2011, 11:41 AM
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You can buy a replacement box. It is only held in with rivets. I think there is a place that sells galvanized ones.
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Old December 28th, 2011, 11:43 AM
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It's a shame that you went through all that work and still have an optima battery. It is a very clean setup though! Good work.
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Old December 28th, 2011, 11:45 AM
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Very nice!!. Why didn't you go dual battery?
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Old December 28th, 2011, 11:50 AM
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I'd recommend that you get some boots for the lugs on the solenoid, especially if that big metal plate is grounded. Normally I would not recommend using metal as a mounting plate, rather opting for something non conductive, but as long as that is isolated so that it won't make sparkies it should be OK.
I'm also a little concerned about the foil facing on the Dynamat. I hope it is in no way in contact with anything that's grounded. Just be careful when reaching in and around in there that you have no rings watches or jewelry. More than one person has had to have their wedding band cut off in the ER when it burned their finger with 2nd and 3rd degree burns.
Also, don't use it as a storage area. If something, especially a metal something, bangs around in there and breaks a cover it might be bad. You don't want anything under your butt making sparks or smoke.
Other than that it looks good.
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Old December 28th, 2011, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
You can buy a replacement box. It is only held in with rivets. I think there is a place that sells galvanized ones.

Any idea where? Rovers North shows them as no longer offered.... google isn't getting me anywhere
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Old December 28th, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Here
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Old December 28th, 2011, 03:34 PM
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$100 bucks - not too bad. Thanks a bunch!
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  #10  
Old December 28th, 2011, 04:59 PM
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Sure beats the $967.08 listed at http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-1...der-90110.aspx. The YRM ones appear to not have the slots for the battery tie down rods, which is no deal breaker for me. Pulled mine out of the seatbox the other day and think I am going to try to go the restoration route as they dont seem all that bad.
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Old December 28th, 2011, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattarm View Post
Sure beats the $967.08 listed at http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-1...der-90110.aspx. The YRM ones appear to not have the slots for the battery tie down rods, which is no deal breaker for me. Pulled mine out of the seatbox the other day and think I am going to try to go the restoration route as they dont seem all that bad.

I'll give RN credit for having a vast inventory, but their prices are just out of control sometimes.
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Old December 29th, 2011, 10:00 AM
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Bossman421,
I bought the fuse blocks from amazon - they are made by blue sea systems and there are a number of different combinations

o2batsea,
Thanks for the continued advice. The plate is a plastic material that is laminated with aluminum on both sides. I just thought it would not be any different than mounting all the pieces directly to the battery box metal which is grounded (except this way I only had to drill 4 holes in the box vs. a lot!)I will definitely get the boots for the solenoid. I am not storing anything in there and will now be very careful because of the dynomat, thank you.

Bill Larson,
Still debating going the dual battery route. I actually have an identical Optima Battery that could go in. And I made sure it will still fit. Troy Smith has sent me a lot of info on his.

Jymmiejamz,
Still have the Optima b/c they just gave me a free new one after my last one died after 2 years. Figured I'd use it until it dies again!
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Old December 29th, 2011, 11:16 AM
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I am much more interested in what looks like a 2 circuit breaker block to the left of the solenoid. Is that what that is? If so, where did it come from?
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Old December 29th, 2011, 04:24 PM
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Looks very nice and clean! Seeing the pics make me remember that I need to do something about the piece of wood that keeps my battery in place.
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Old December 29th, 2011, 05:07 PM
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Great post! I just ordered some things today to start to gear up for my center console and iron goat console install.
Pete
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  #16  
Old December 29th, 2011, 11:03 PM
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Alright. First of all very cool post and very cool way to take care of the battery box. This will show you how far behind the curve I am on this. Why is it necessary to create that board you have created. I am only guessing you have lights and winch etc. but my battery box I think looks a bit cleaner stock. I do not have any aux lights or winch YET, so this could be a great way to address a future issue.
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Old January 4th, 2012, 10:36 AM
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John
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navydevildoc,
The piece you are talking about is: Dual 80 amp breaker (Absolute 2DCB80) one input /2 outputs made by absolute products and I bought it on amazon.com. It has one input for a large gauge wire from the battery and then runs it through 2 separate 80 breakers - and a smaller diameter wire goes off to each of your fuse blocks. They have a number of different combinations and amperages. Their webpage is absoluteusa.com


RickM,
I only built the board because of the number of components needed in my battery box. I did not want to drill 20+ holes in the side of my batt box and then have to crawl under the truck to have to tighten them all. This way all the components attach to the board and its only 4 bolts to attach the board to the batt box. The board is not required, just seemed like an easier way to install it for me.
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  #18  
Old January 6th, 2012, 12:14 PM
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First I wanted to say that looks very nice. I like the Ďpanelí idea for the distribution blocks, and breakers very much, though as another member mentioned Iíd probably opt for something non conductive. I wanted to pen some additional discussion on a couple of points. The First Waterproofing.

The battery box is full of holes, as you mentioned (where did you get your plugs, BTW), and I like the idea of waterproofing it to keep water from the underside of the vehicle from entering the box. In fact I was originally thinking of having the OUTSIDE of the box Rhino lined, and when I saw a commercial for this ĎFlexSealí stuff I was thinking it would be a good product to use, but again, I was thinking of trying to spray the outside of the box to water proof it, as opposed to the inside? Iím curious how you would go about actually waterproofing where the inevitable bundles of wiring need to enter/exit though? I also donít see a heavy Winch Power cable/Ground Cable that is something I and others need to accommodate. Another issue is water ingress from the top of the box, and some way for it to drain out?

I want to keep my Ready Air Compressor mounted in this compartment (an earlier mock-up, but a project that still sits on the back burner, I used Optimas because I had a couple of dead ones sitting around, but want to use a pair of Odyssey PC1500ís if I can make them fit) as well as electrical distribution, so I share the interest in waterproofing as well as possible.

For those of us that have winches to hook up, do you just go with an unfused direct hook-up? I have in the past, because of the obviously high current needs of the winch and finding a breaker that will not trip under heavy load, but I would like to provide protection if there were an accident (for example) that ended up grounding the 1/0 gauge winch cable somewhere. I have protected the 1/0 power and ground cables as best as I can, but they run from the winch to the battery box, which is a lot of possibility for a problem. I suppose the best route is a simple High Amperage disconnect switch, and leave the winch power lead turned off until it is needed?
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  #19  
Old January 6th, 2012, 03:54 PM
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Scott,

I was able to fit twin Odyssey PC1500's in there along with the dual battery kit and circuit breaker for the aux fuse panel. Its not packed yet, but you have to be wise with your space.

I too am wondering if a circuit breaker for the winch would be a better safe than sorry idea.
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  #20  
Old January 8th, 2012, 01:38 PM
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Scott,
Can't really help with the winch questions as I don't have one but I'll give more info on the water-proofing. to be honest I should say it's more water resistant than waterproof.
When the box was completely empty and cleaned with alcohol, I applied sealant in the joints and small gaps (sikaflex or similar sealant). I filled the additional open holes with plugs from Restorations Specialties & Supply inc (from another post) phone # 814-467-9842. I used plug # 9292-scr. Not a perfect fit but close enough. I sprayed the entire interior of the box with Eastwood's flexible sealer and sound deadener (#12742) and then pushed the plugs in the holes while the sealer was still wet. Then applied a second coat of the sealer to cover the plugs. After drying I lined the box with dynomat. On the outside of the box I gave a fresh coat of Waxoyl. So if the box were submerged, water could (only) seep in the grommet holes for the ground and positive battery cables. Although these grommets are tight and packed with electrical duct sealant (flexible grey sticky material electricians use to seal exterior boxes and pipes - available at home depot) I can't say they are 100% waterproof. For better grommets, you can get waterproof ones but for me that was overkill. Cableorganizer.com is a good source of info on grommets. But for everyday wet roads I would say there would not be any water getting in. I imagine the Flexseal stuff you mentioned is similar to Eastwoods. Lastly, if water gets in from the top then I assume it will just fill up - if this happens then something has gone terribly wrong on your driving adventure!
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