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  #21  
Old January 9th, 2012, 02:04 PM
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Scott T
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKC View Post
Lastly, if water gets in from the top then I assume it will just fill up - if this happens then something has gone terribly wrong on your driving adventure!
Yes, well, it happens... Thanks for the info on the plugs!
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  #22  
Old February 4th, 2012, 06:47 PM
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Jason Lavender
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John:

What gauge wire did you run to the Absolute circuit breaker, and then to the fuse blocks? Is that 8 awg?

Also is a solenoid really needed or could one get away without? If needed, do you recall which Cole Hersee that was?
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  #23  
Old April 3rd, 2012, 01:56 PM
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Adam Harward
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKC View Post
This is a follow up to my original post on the battery compartment makeover. First Id like to say thanks for the advice I received from this forum and just wanted to show how it turned out. This really cleaned up the rats nest of wiring and made it much safer. These are items I used to organize my battery box:

- Cleaned with alcohol and then treated rusted areas with Ospho
- Filled all open holes with plastic plugs
- Lined with Eastwood Sound Deadener Spray #22742 (to deaden sound but more importantly waterproof)
- Lined with Dynomat extreme (for sound and heat resistance)
- Dual 80 amp breaker (Absolute 2DCB80) one input /2 outputs
- 12v continuos duty weatherproof Cole Hersee solenoid
- 2 Blue Sea Systems fuse blocks
1. 12 fuse (#5029) unit for all accessories which are switched on with the solenoid
2. 6 fuse unit(#5025) with ground has 12 volt power all the time, for the alarm system

I mounted all the pieces to a single plate so I did not have to drill a bunch of holes for each item in the battery box. Hope this helps with anyone looking to do a similar project.
Getting ready to run my aux lights and liked your set up. I have a few questions as a beginner.

1. If I'm running 4 Hella 4000's I run them into 12 fuse bus but I still need the relay to turn them on with the switch.....correct? I noticed you have a few relays under your Dual 80 amp breaker.
2. The Cole Hersee Solenoid is to activate that 12 fuse bus (ignition on)

I'm sorry this is probably basic but it's all new to me. Some basic wiring 101 would be helpful for me.

Thanks in advance.
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  #24  
Old April 3rd, 2012, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahD90 View Post
Getting ready to run my aux lights and liked your set up. I have a few questions as a beginner.

1. If I'm running 4 Hella 4000's I run them into 12 fuse bus but I still need the relay to turn them on with the switch.....correct? I noticed you have a few relays under your Dual 80 amp breaker.
2. The Cole Hersee Solenoid is to activate that 12 fuse bus (ignition on)

I'm sorry this is probably basic but it's all new to me. Some basic wiring 101 would be helpful for me.

Thanks in advance.
I'm literally in the middle of doing the same thing to my truck, but that is correct - run your Hellas into the fuse block, but then the line from the fuse block will head to the relay, then to the fog lamps.

Keep in mind your switch will also need to be fused (something small like 3amp), and will essentially run to the fuse block then also to the relay. Attached are a couple of wiring diagrams I found helpful.

That is also correct, the Cole Hersee solenoid is used to "activate" the fuse block so it's not always hot. I ran one fuse block that is hot all the time (for rear worklamp, 12v outlets, etc) and one fuse block that is controlled by a Cole Hersee 24117 and essentially is turned on by an ignition lead (ie only hot when ignition is on, for things like CB, heated seats, foglamps, etc).
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  #25  
Old April 3rd, 2012, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
I'm literally in the middle of doing the same thing to my truck, but that is correct - run your Hellas into the fuse block, but then the line from the fuse block will head to the relay, then to the fog lamps.

Keep in mind your switch will also need to be fused (something small like 3amp), and will essentially run to the fuse block then also to the relay. Attached are a couple of wiring diagrams I found helpful.

That is also correct, the Cole Hersee solenoid is used to "activate" the fuse block so it's not always hot. I ran one fuse block that is hot all the time (for rear worklamp, 12v outlets, etc) and one fuse block that is controlled by a Cole Hersee 24117 and essentially is turned on by an ignition lead (ie only hot when ignition is on, for things like CB, heated seats, foglamps, etc).
Thanks for the help. Greatly appreciated
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  #26  
Old April 3rd, 2012, 03:58 PM
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A little tip for people looking for an accessory power lead for switching a relay: if you don't want to hack up your truck's primary fuse panel, a great place to tap it is at your stereo. I have an aftermarket stereo so built a custom harness between the factory stereo harness plug and my head unit. It includes a tap for ignition-switched power and ground. On my 94, the ignition switched power comes to the stereo harness on an orange/white wire. Ground is on the black wire. I added some Anderson PowerPoles and a small 5A fuse on +12V between the custom harness and my relay. This way, I can easily disconnect the relay circuit from the stereo harness if I need to remove the stereo harness for whatever reason.

Also, don't forget to solder a diode across the coil tabs on your relay (85 and 86). When the coil discharges, it can send current back up to the switch and fry the switch. Using a diode ensures that current can only flow in one direction: to ground. I used a 1KV 2.5A diode with the white strip towards the switch side (86). Simply lay the diode on the relay so that the legs hook around the 85 and 86 tabs. Try to get the diode as close (flat) to the relay as possible so that it doesn't get in the way when you plug the relay into the harness. Once it's in place, solder the legs to the base of the relay tabs.
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  #27  
Old April 3rd, 2012, 05:17 PM
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Also one other thing...anyone know where to get a Relay Holder for Hella Relays?
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  #28  
Old April 3rd, 2012, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahD90 View Post
Also one other thing...anyone know where to get a Relay Holder for Hella Relays?
Do you mean this?
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=416
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  #29  
Old April 3rd, 2012, 06:15 PM
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Actually quick question for the original-poster John - where'd you get that silver material that you used to finish the surface of your electrical mounting board? This stuff:
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  #30  
Old April 3rd, 2012, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Actually I was referring to the relay caddy the original poster has in the picture.
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  #31  
Old April 3rd, 2012, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
You can buy that at any auto parts store.

------ Follow up post added April 3rd, 2012 05:12 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahD90 View Post
Actually I was referring to the relay caddy the original poster has in the picture.
You can get relay harnesses with integrated mounting tabs at the auto parts store. The tabs take a small screw, like an M5 or so, and can be mounted onto anything.
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  #32  
Old April 4th, 2012, 08:54 PM
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peter
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I was thinking of doing a similar fuse block off a solenoid like you have and then just running the lights of the carling type switches in my iron goat dash. So I'm no worrying about the brights thing and a relay. The switches are good for 20A so should be fine with 55w lights.
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  #33  
Old April 15th, 2012, 02:44 PM
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Sorry, been off the forum for a while.
To answer some past questions:

Nathanwind - I cant recall the name of the board, it was given to me by a friend. Basically it a sheet of plexi with a thin aluminum facing. If I were to do it again I would probably just use 1/4 plexi (available clear, white, black usually at a good local hardware store). A previous post mentioned the "safety" of a base plate that can conduct electricity. Even though mine has some kind of thin clear coating on top I'd have to agree with him. Pure plexi would be safer.
Regarding the Dual 80 amp breaker (Absolute 2DCB80) one input /2 output. I can't recall the wire size. Its in the specs at Absolutes website - http://www.absoluteusa.com


UtahD90 - The relay caddy is available at numerous places online and may be at local auto stores as well. I think I bough mine from Susquehanna motor sports (as mentioned above) http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=416
Its just an individual relay base, When you buy more than one they slide and lock together so you can just keep connecting more as you go. Its a nice way to organize your relays.
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  #34  
Old April 15th, 2012, 05:33 PM
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Nathanwind,
Here's a diagram with the different wire gauges I used
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  #35  
Old April 18th, 2012, 09:50 PM
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Don Andrews
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKC View Post
This is a follow up to my original post on the battery compartment makeover. First Id like to say thanks for the advice I received from this forum and just wanted to show how it turned out. This really cleaned up the rats nest of wiring and made it much safer. These are items I used to organize my battery box:

- Cleaned with alcohol and then treated rusted areas with Ospho
- Filled all open holes with plastic plugs
- Lined with Eastwood Sound Deadener Spray #22742 (to deaden sound but more importantly waterproof)
- Lined with Dynomat extreme (for sound and heat resistance)
- Dual 80 amp breaker (Absolute 2DCB80) one input /2 outputs
- 12v continuos duty weatherproof Cole Hersee solenoid
- 2 Blue Sea Systems fuse blocks
1. 12 fuse (#5029) unit for all accessories which are switched on with the solenoid
2. 6 fuse unit(#5025) with ground has 12 volt power all the time, for the alarm system

I mounted all the pieces to a single plate so I did not have to drill a bunch of holes for each item in the battery box. Hope this helps with anyone looking to do a similar project.
Did you just cut holes in the Dynamat for the j-rods that hold the battery down?
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