Battery Compartment Makeover - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 30th, 2011, 08:37 PM
JKC
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John
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Battery Compartment Makeover

So after reading some posts about cleaning up the battery compartment I'm motivated. I have a nest of wires in there from aftermarket add-ons. I am looking to see if anyone thinks what I am planning is incorrect in any way. From the attached pdf : I'm running a 4 gauge wire from the battery to a dual 60 amp breaker - from the breaker one 8 gauge wire runs to a 70amp relay (switched on the ignition) then to a blue sea panel (12 accessory positions). The other 60 amp breaker has a 8 gauge wire running directly to a blue sea panel (this one also has the negative block). This panel has 12 volt all the time (for alarm).Is there any reason this set up will not work? I appreciate any and all comments - about to bite the bullet and order the parts.
Thank you.
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  #2  
Old November 30th, 2011, 09:00 PM
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Bill Adams
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Unclear why you are adding all those relays and breakers.
Are you attempting to create a big fat keyed hot feed?
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Old November 30th, 2011, 10:15 PM
JKC
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John
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o2batsea,
I'm going from what I've read others have done. In my situation I'm adding 2 fuse blocks - one which is switched with the ignition (due to relay) and one that has power at all times (no relay). The breakers are for additional protection to each fuse block. Hope that made sense.
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  #4  
Old December 1st, 2011, 12:42 AM
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Bill Adams
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OK if you have fuse blocks you don't need breakers mid stream. Just run a hot feed for fuse panel A direct from the battery.
For switched power use a Cole hersee solenoid between the battery and fuse panel B. Activate the solenoid via small wire from keyed 12v+. that will turn on fuse panel B only when the key is in position one.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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Old December 1st, 2011, 09:54 AM
JKC
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John
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o2batsea,

Ok, so the breakers are redundant? It's just that all the other installs I've read about have breakers before the fuse panels. I thought the breaker was to protect the relay/solenoid. I'm good without them if there not needed.
As for the solenoid, I was planning on using a 70amp relay instead (in which the breaker, if installed, would cut out at 60 amps to protect it). A solenoid and relay are basically the same thing, correct?
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  #6  
Old December 1st, 2011, 10:26 AM
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Dave Sherwood
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You should just buy a kit...will make it easier on you.

I know 02batsea does not like Painless products...but I have a Painless kit that worked great:

You will see my final install at the bottom of this thread:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...light=painless
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  #7  
Old December 1st, 2011, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKC View Post
o2batsea, Ok, so the breakers are redundant?
Maybe. I personally wouldn't use them, but that's no reason for you not to if you are more comfortable with that. It's more lugs and more crimps and more heat shrink and more nuts and bolts and more stuff to drill holes and mount...


Quote:
As for the solenoid, I was planning on using a 70amp relay instead (in which the breaker, if installed, would cut out at 60 amps to protect it). A solenoid and relay are basically the same thing, correct?
This is just me, but for channelling 12V power I like big fat contactor type solenoids. They make a nice solid clunk when they activate. Plus they have mounting tabs.
Relay you need a relay holder thingy
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