Banging from Park to Drive or Reverse - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 12th, 2011, 08:50 PM
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Dana Hammersley
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Banging from Park to Drive or Reverse

When I shift from park to drive or to reverse it seems to shift into gear more fierce than I think it should. I also think the RPM's are alittle high. Around 700-750 rpm. Any suggestion on cause and fixes?
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  #2  
Old March 14th, 2011, 09:30 PM
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Dana Hammersley
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I Guess all the Guru's are speechless

------ Follow up post added March 15th, 2011 01:31 AM ------

Thats not like this bunch! lol
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Old March 14th, 2011, 09:38 PM
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Did you check the trans fluid level?
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  #4  
Old March 14th, 2011, 09:53 PM
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Don't all the rover autos do that to some degree. At least all the ones I have had do/did
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Old March 14th, 2011, 10:18 PM
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Dana, I'm no guru but I'd think the relatively high rpms are making the difference. The rest is the additive effect of all the slop in the system, starting at the rear diff, then u-joints, then the transfer case input and output. It all adds up, but the higher revs are what are making the clunk worse than it would be at a lower rpm I believe. Try lower them and see?
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Old March 14th, 2011, 11:21 PM
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Every disco, RR, and auto Defender I have ever driven has done that. The revs line up with my 97 as well.
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  #7  
Old March 15th, 2011, 03:56 AM
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Idle range spec is roughly 650 to 730, so you might be just at the high end (but then your tach might not be exact). Do you notice the issue with your foot on the brake, or without? When you go from forward gears to reverse, the drive train slack all comes into play -- xfer case, u-joints, sliding joint splines, diffs, drive flanges... There is a lot of slack in a LR drivetrain.

You might be able to bring the idle down some by cleaning the stepper motor seat and plunger, it could be leaking a bit from gunk buildup.
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  #8  
Old March 15th, 2011, 06:51 AM
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Dana Hammersley
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We have a 99 Disco that doesn't do it at all, thats what got me thinking. I have all new u-joint in it and the Diffs are ARB's set up a couple years ago. If I would to adjust the idle how would one go about it?
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Old March 15th, 2011, 07:04 AM
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Dana, My truck is going the same thing and was told to change the transmission fluid... along with the filter.

Mine only makes the noise when it's warm.
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Old March 15th, 2011, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammertime View Post
If I would to adjust the idle how would one go about it?
On top of the throttle body there is a small round plug and the adjuster is under this. This describes it better than I can

http://www.roversnorth.com/web/downl...le-air-gap.pdf
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Old March 15th, 2011, 09:06 AM
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If you have a broken axle, it will do this. Also check the drive-flange bolts to make sure they're tight.

A little slop is normal. Big clunks are not.
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  #12  
Old March 15th, 2011, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrc.swb View Post
Dana, My truck is going the same thing and was told to change the transmission fluid... along with the filter.

Mine only makes the noise when it's warm.
Just changed every ounce of fluid in the truck, All new brakes, Rotors, Bearing, seals and HD rear axles in the rear.
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Old March 15th, 2011, 01:46 PM
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My '97 clucks too, always has since 1999. After I installed the Detriot in the rear, this only made the clunk more pronounced. Try this to reduce it. When shifting from R to D or D to R, slightly pause in N and let up on the brakes slightly. This will reduce the maximum gear directional loading from R to D. It'll still clunk but it's at lot less.

Dennis
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  #14  
Old March 15th, 2011, 02:07 PM
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Dana, you've had the truck for a while - when did this start? After your oil fluid change? After putting in the HD axles? After wheeling?
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Old March 18th, 2011, 11:50 AM
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Everytime I have had driveline play like that its been a u joint or a wheel flange.
I once had a range rover with a borg warner with a worn chain and sprockets and I found that simply pausing in nuetral for 5-10 seconds in between greatly reduced the bang
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Old March 18th, 2011, 03:51 PM
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Dana Hammersley
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Maybe it has always done it just never noticed it till I Drove my other halfs Disc. Bought the truck in 2004 with 38,000 on it. it now has 83,000. I still think it might be the idle. Is it had to get the anti-tamper plug out of it. Can it be put back in or do I need to replace it.
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  #17  
Old March 19th, 2011, 03:07 PM
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Dana, my 97 acts the same way and I find stalling in neutral helps the most. I have about 95k and notice it the most after I come off a day of trails or when I've coasted down the mountain in 2nd and 3rd. Sucks.
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