Baffling Overheating Saga - Page 3 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #41  
Old September 21st, 2006, 03:49 PM
Trevor Tarr's Avatar
Trevor Tarr
Status: Offline
Trevor Tarr
1997 D-90 4.6 NAS ST
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Altadena, CA, USA
Posts: 171
Thanks for all the suggestions. It appears to me that the transmission was at fault all along. None of the work West Coast Rovers did along the way, all the way up to replacing the entire engine--had any impact on the overheating. It wasn't until my transmission failed (up on top of the Inyo Mountains), and was replaced, that the overheating stopped. I'd suggested early in this whole ordeal that maybe a hot transmission was bleeding heat from the transmission cooler into the radiator, but unfortunately the mechanic didn't buy that theory at the time. In any case, it's all sorted out finally.

I now have an externally-mounted transmission cooler, supplemented by an electric fan.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #42  
Old September 21st, 2006, 04:38 PM
chris snell's Avatar
chris snell
Status: Offline
Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Walker
I'm wondering if there is an air pocket in the cooling system, how would I bleed the system to remove the bubble? My 90 is heating up to about 250 degrees F, then cools back down to about 220 degrees F. I'm thinking it may be a problem with the expansion tank cap, but not positive.
I'm reading this thread for the first time and that's exactly what came to mind.

My little story:

My D-90 was frequently overheating (and leaking coolant from the radiator) from the time I bought it. I took it to Regent Street Rover when I moved to Salt Lake and spent a gazillion dollars on diagnosis, a new radiator, and installation. Imagine my disgust when I took my truck to Telluride the next weekend and the damned thing started overheating on the road, driving gently at 50mph when it was 40 degrees out. I made all sorts of dumb attempts to fix the problem--adding coolant, even trying to JB Weld the fan clutch (thank God the JB Weld broke before I destroyed my water pump and fan clutch) because I thought it was broken. I still was not able to fix it.

I was fed up with Regent Street after some other shoddy work they did, I took my truck to Mike at Roverland. It took him less than a minute to correctly diagnose the problem: air in the cooling system. He showed me how to bleed the system (and didn't even charge me) and sent me on my way. I haven't had a single overheating problem since!

I guess the moral of the story is, before you dump a few grand into these overheating problems, check the system for air pockets!

Chris
__________________
1987 Ex-MOD 110 Tithonus LHD
2013 LR4


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old September 21st, 2006, 06:19 PM
Baldewin's Avatar
Baldewin
Status: Offline
Chris Baldewin
Bastard 90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Republican Sanctuary of CA
Posts: 878
Chris,

Can you give us a description on how you bleed all the air out?

Thanks
Chris
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #44  
Old October 14th, 2006, 07:57 PM
tron's Avatar
tron
Status: Offline
Thomas F
Recently Roverless
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 112
Yes, please tell us what you mean when you are saying to bleed everything out...
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old October 14th, 2006, 11:33 PM
robisonservice
Status: Offline
John Robison
2008 Supercharged Range Rover
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Amherst, MA, USA
Posts: 110
The sureest way to eliminate air in the cooling system is to use one of the new vacuum fillers. Here's a link to one
http://www.amazon.com/Vacuum-Antifre.../dp/B0006BJ28E

The Snap On and Matco tool trucks sell a hand held vacuum filler for about $200.

The vacuum filler uses shop air to suck a vacuum in the cooling system. YOu check for leaks by seeing if it holds vacuum. If it's OK, you let it draw coolant from a pail and it fills right to level. No muss, no bleeding.

It's a great advance and eliminates the bleeding problems on Dii, BMW, and other problematic cars.
Reply With Quote
  #46  
Old May 14th, 2009, 09:43 PM
rover4x4's Avatar
rover4x4
Status: Offline
Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: The Old North State
Posts: 7,527
Registry
Ive always read filling on an incline helps some?
__________________
Poor gas mileage gets you to the best places on earth
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old March 14th, 2010, 08:39 PM
fnse
Status: Offline
Francis Esteban
93 NAS D110 276/500
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Anaheim, California
Posts: 4
Doug,

What is the name of the shop that does headers & exhaust for defenders in San Gabriel, CA.
I have a d110 with a 4.6 and the back pressure is too strong. I'm basing the back pressure judgment base on the tail pipe putting out too strong of a pressure. Do you like your 3" exhaust?

My d110 with 4.6 has temp between 190-195 on flat but when climbing hills it goes up to 210 and will eventually come back down when on flats again. But this is winter time in Los Angeles. I'm not comfortable driving it across death valley area during summer time. I'm afraid it will go pass 220 (using a VDO temp gauge). All my fans seems to be working normally. I'm thinking it could be the exhaust heat not exiting fast enough. (I dont want it to loose pressure either with too big of exhaust)

Thanks
Francis



Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug View Post
I talked to a guy this weekend that runs a couple of aggressive off road trucks and a high performance offshore yacht. He says there's a shop in Torrance that builds aluminum radiators for west coast Nascar teams and they'd build one for the Defender, no problem. He also said there's a speed shop in the San Gabriel valley that does excellent custom header and exhaust work, and could easily build a whole header/exhaust system for the Ds. No mention of price..., but I think I'll follow up in the spring and investigate. I'm fine with my temps now, just worried about low speed uphill crawling in desert heat this summer....

Doug W.
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old March 16th, 2010, 01:03 PM
Doug's Avatar
Doug
Status: Offline
Doug Walker
TVR5L-powered NAS D-110
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA, USA
Posts: 880
Hi Francis,

I can't even remember the name of the guy I reference in the above quote. Never contacted the header guy, but I did have Eddie at West Coast Rovers put in a set of Hedman headers. I like the 3" exhaust. Wouldn't change the setup now. The KEY for me on lowering engine temps was to seal off all the 'air leaks' around the radiator cowl. First I got a new cowl and custom cut it to fit snugly around pipes and hoses. Then I used weathersripping, duct tape and foam rubber to block any leaks around the pipes, sidewalls and hoses. Now when that fan clutch engages, temp drops like a stone.

220 starts to feel dangerous, but I've been as high as 235 (scary!!) and didn't do any damage. Now I'd back off if I hit 220. With the current set up I can run up the Grapevine (Mountain pass north of L.A. on the 5 freeway) and not get above 214, runnning full trottle in 85 degrees for 10 minutes. I wouldn't be afraid to take the rig into Death Valley in the summer. In fact, I'm planning on doing the NVTR again in August in Nevada.

PS: I'm replacing the Hedman headers with Rimmer Bros stainless right now... The Hedmans cracked so many times can't weld them up any more...

DW

------ Follow up post added March 16th, 2010 10:41 AM ------

Added note: Just re-read this thread and see that a lot of my changes aren't mentioned. Obviously at some point there, I went back to a stock fan and clutch. The electrics just didn't do the job. I also dumped the external oil cooler rig. I did replace the small metal expansion tank with a larger capacity plastic tank and hosed it to recirculate adding more cooling surface. So to sum up, my 5-liter rig has the following cooling mods:

1) larger radiator
2) custom fitted cowl
3) larger expansion tank

That's all, plus the 3-inch exhaust and headers. And I'm confident in the desert! (I carry a spare clutch and tools, btw, every time I go off-road.)

DW
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old March 16th, 2010, 02:58 PM
61rover's Avatar
61rover
Status: Offline
John Crouse
'93 NAS D110 (#8) / '61 Series II
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,116
Registry
Can someone post the bleeding procedure for those of us that do not have a vacum bleeder?
Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old March 16th, 2010, 05:52 PM
chris snell's Avatar
chris snell
Status: Offline
Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,439
LOL, thread revival.

I'm laughing at my rookie post, too.

My overheating problems continued after learning how to burp the system and I ended up replacing my head gasket. The truck has run perfectly cool since then. I recently added a Mantec raised air intake and this seems to have dropped the usual coolant temperature by a few degrees or so, which is a nice side benefit.

The "bleeding" procedure has already been posted in this thread. With the engine cool and running, very slowly open the cap on the pipe that runs next to the plenum. You may see some air sputtering out along with the coolant. When the air is gone and it's just coolant, close the cap. Open the cap at the top of the radiator (again, engine cool) and squeeze on the coolant hoses to see if you can force any air out. After that's done, put the cap back on.

I also recommend ditching the shitty plastic caps and replacing with the brass versions that Expedition Exchange sells.
Reply With Quote
  #51  
Old March 17th, 2010, 07:33 AM
budz
Status: Offline
sal gorriceta
various rovers
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: brooklyn, new york
Posts: 268
Francis,

Summit racing sells Hedman Headers for your 110. Get the ceramic coated then let John Paul installed for you. I know he hates Ds but he will fix it.

Sal


Quote:
Originally Posted by fnse View Post
Doug,

What is the name of the shop that does headers & exhaust for defenders in San Gabriel, CA.
I have a d110 with a 4.6 and the back pressure is too strong. I'm basing the back pressure judgment base on the tail pipe putting out too strong of a pressure. Do you like your 3" exhaust?

My d110 with 4.6 has temp between 190-195 on flat but when climbing hills it goes up to 210 and will eventually come back down when on flats again. But this is winter time in Los Angeles. I'm not comfortable driving it across death valley area during summer time. I'm afraid it will go pass 220 (using a VDO temp gauge). All my fans seems to be working normally. I'm thinking it could be the exhaust heat not exiting fast enough. (I dont want it to loose pressure either with too big of exhaust)

Thanks
Francis
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old May 20th, 2010, 10:41 AM
fnse
Status: Offline
Francis Esteban
93 NAS D110 276/500
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Anaheim, California
Posts: 4
Thanks Doug. I'm going to check that Rimmer Bros headers. By the way have you seen these headers from Toddco Suspensions Inc. http://store.toddcosuspensions.com/larode90110h.html ?

I also replaced my 3.9 ecu to 4.2 ecu from a RR LWB. That seems to made my engine run cooler.


Sal,
How are you? are you taking about my cousin John Paul to install the headers? that's a good idea.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
overheating

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
!&*@! ..... still overheating! jaherring Defender Technical Discussions 63 July 13th, 2006 05:42 PM
overheating w/ everything new D90user Defender Technical Discussions 27 April 23rd, 2006 08:42 AM
Overheating Question PT94D90 Defender Technical Discussions 10 July 12th, 2005 04:39 PM
Timing and Overheating mkerr2112 Defender Technical Discussions 10 July 6th, 2005 09:31 AM
Overheating fun... Trigger Defender Technical Discussions 10 May 16th, 2005 10:04 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:41 AM.


Copyright