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  #1  
Old September 5th, 2015, 05:42 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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Bad vibrations

A friend drives a DiscoI with 300tdi engine, R380 and about a 2" lift.
This was fine untill he swapped a ZF auto gearbox.

Since then he has bad vibrations when driving more than 90m/h.
Torque inventer and flex plate had been changed: same vibrations
He had changed several types of transmission boxes: same vibrations
Took the front shaft out while driving in diff-lock mode: a little bit smoother vibrations

He's thinking about the gap inside the main shaft inside the auto gearbox. It's about 0,8mm.

Expereances are needed.
Quickly if possible.

And a tipp about how to measure the gap the easy way!

Thanks.
Kurt
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  #2  
Old September 5th, 2015, 05:51 PM
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Luis Constantin
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The problem is he switched from a manual to an automatic. Put the R380 back in and it will be fine.

Is he using the same drive shafts?
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  #3  
Old September 5th, 2015, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuisC View Post
The problem is he switched from a manual to an automatic. Put the R380 back in and it will be fine.

Is he using the same drive shafts?
He wanted an automatic like me.
Drive shafts: good question. I guess he replaced them by wide angle or double joint types.
But it doesn't matter, both sytems failed: because bad vibrations
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  #4  
Old September 5th, 2015, 06:41 PM
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We had a similar question a few days ago.
1: check UJ for play and regrease
2: check props hafts at both ends to make sure the nuts securing then are tight
3: one extra one: ditch the guibo/rubber donut for real props haft
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #5  
Old September 5th, 2015, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arlo View Post
Since then he has bad vibrations when driving more than 90m/h.
People can actually do 90 miles per hour in a Rover? Seriously?
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  #6  
Old September 5th, 2015, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
People can actually do 90 miles per hour in a Rover? Seriously?
I did driving across the country.
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  #7  
Old September 5th, 2015, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
I did driving across the country.
This is flabbergasting. Who knew.
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  #8  
Old September 5th, 2015, 07:14 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
We had a similar question a few days ago.
1: check UJ for play and regrease
2: check props hafts at both ends to make sure the nuts securing then are tight
3: one extra one: ditch the guibo/rubber donut for real props haft
I'm sure he checked it all over the place several times!

No ideas about vibrations inside the automatic transmission?
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  #9  
Old September 5th, 2015, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
We had a similar question a few days ago.
1: check UJ for play and regrease
A binding u-joint will cause a vibration before there's any play in it. And it can only be checked by removing the propshaft.
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  #10  
Old September 5th, 2015, 11:08 PM
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Thanks Tom and others for adding good stuff to my comment. Thumbs up!
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #11  
Old September 6th, 2015, 08:17 AM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
People can actually do 90 miles per hour in a Rover? Seriously?
I'm sorry for this mistake. A small "k" is missing.
The vibrations start at 55 m/h.
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  #12  
Old September 6th, 2015, 03:56 PM
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Had a problem with vibration. Checked many many things. eventually found the big nut on the pinion gear on the front of the rear diff was 'loose'. the shaft could be pushed and play felt. tightened the nut to 90nm and vibration was gone,
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  #13  
Old September 6th, 2015, 05:20 PM
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Robert Davis
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Had a similar issue and it turned out the bolts securing the driveshaft to the back of the transmission were slightly loose causing the break drum set screws to work loose and then the parking brake drum to rotate and wear the holes oval where it fits onto the rear flange.

It was pretty ease to diagnose.
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