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  #1  
Old November 15th, 2010, 08:42 PM
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Martin Spencer
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bad steering problem

In the past few months I have upgraded several things on my defender. When I added the RTE springs I also did the RTE rear links. When I did that I replaced the bushings where the links connect to the frame. The truck drove great.

I live on a ranch, and have been wheeling pretty hard and pretty often here lately. Tonight I loaded up the family and headed to town for supper. I haven't had the truck on the road in nearly two months, and it was pretty scary. When you push the clutch it dives left and then when you let off it jerks to the right. That is the same thing it was doing before I replaced the bushings on the rear links. It got worse as we drove, and by the time we made it home I was nervous to go over 50mph. What is the problem. What can I check? It is dark now, so I haven't looked at it at all. Need to get it fixed quick got a trip planned wednesday.

Thanks, Martin
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  #2  
Old November 15th, 2010, 09:25 PM
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steve
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Sounds like the bushings on the trailing arms.
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  #3  
Old November 15th, 2010, 09:59 PM
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Martin Spencer
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they are new. replaced when i did the suspension. new bushings in the rear links and where they attach to the frame.
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  #4  
Old November 15th, 2010, 10:03 PM
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steve
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Did you look at them recently (ie tonight)?
If not...get a flashlight

They can get trashed quick if you used set the angle wrong (if you have adjustables) and they are binding.

could be a loose bolt too.
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  #5  
Old November 15th, 2010, 10:10 PM
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Kevin Buckley
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I've had 2 sets fail very quickly. Also retorque the rear link bolts, just a little off can make a huge difference.
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  #6  
Old November 15th, 2010, 10:18 PM
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Martin Spencer
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what should they be torqued to?
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That is why it is called a short cut. If it was easy it would just be "the way."
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  #7  
Old November 15th, 2010, 10:21 PM
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steve
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The ones on the axle side should be 'really tight', but those usually start a slight vibe when loose.
The ones on the frame should be 'pretty tight', but all the way down.

Kevin, do you use adjustable trailing arms? that solved my issues.
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  #8  
Old November 15th, 2010, 10:25 PM
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Martin Spencer
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I will check these things first thing in the morning. I hope it is something as simple as a loose nut. Thanks for the input, will update in the morning.
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That is why it is called a short cut. If it was easy it would just be "the way."
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  #9  
Old November 15th, 2010, 10:44 PM
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Kevin Buckley
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Torque spec. on the rear link bolts is 130 pound feet. There have been some bad batches of bushings floating around that crumble rather quickly.
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  #10  
Old November 16th, 2010, 05:00 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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Definitely the bushings. Especially if you used poly bushings. I crumbled a set of those in 3 days
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  #11  
Old November 16th, 2010, 06:55 PM
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Martin Spencer
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Is there a better kind of bushings to use? I got under the truck today and found that I have bent the steel washer part of the bushing. I was on an obstacle the other day that twisted my axle to the point that my spring on the rear driver side came all the way out of the cone, and then crushed the cone on its way back in. I guess that is when it happened. Now I am running EE retainers. Where can I get better bushings?????
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That is why it is called a short cut. If it was easy it would just be "the way."
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  #12  
Old November 16th, 2010, 09:55 PM
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Go with LR bushings.
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  #13  
Old November 17th, 2010, 02:04 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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LR original all the way. Especially if you have a that much travel.
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  #14  
Old November 17th, 2010, 08:14 PM
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Martin Spencer
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So I got everything tight, and today realized that I also bent my tie rod. I was looking at the RTE heavy duty tie rod, and got to thinking..... couldn't I get some thick wall (1/4 inch or so) tubing with an inside diameter the same as the outside diameter as the tie rod, slide it over it, weld it in place, and put it back in? Wouldn't this produce a very heavy duty tie rod for much cheaper?
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That is why it is called a short cut. If it was easy it would just be "the way."
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  #15  
Old November 17th, 2010, 08:27 PM
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Yes you can, it's called sleeving the rod.
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  #16  
Old November 17th, 2010, 08:45 PM
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Martin Spencer
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do you know the diameter of the tie rod? I can measure, but if anyone knows off the top of their head that would be great.
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That is why it is called a short cut. If it was easy it would just be "the way."
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  #17  
Old November 19th, 2010, 08:50 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY View Post
Yes you can, it's called sleeving the rod.

"Sleeving the rod".. ha reminds me of college.
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  #18  
Old November 19th, 2010, 06:06 PM
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I'm sure Wolf won't mind if I post this link- it's to his D90 project page:

http://www.cj-3a.com/tie_rod.htm

It outlines with pics how he was able to thicken his shaft.
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  #19  
Old November 19th, 2010, 08:32 PM
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Martin Spencer
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thanks, i was trying to find something that fit perfect, and have been unsuccessful. i will go with 1 inch
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That is why it is called a short cut. If it was easy it would just be "the way."
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  #20  
Old November 19th, 2010, 09:45 PM
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Andrew J. Hutton
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If wheeling a lot I would really think about some x-arms, the advantages of a rose jointed setup but comfort of polybushes.
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