Bad ignition switch or something else? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 06:29 PM
rjwellman
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Bad ignition switch or something else?

Have a '91 RHD 110 200tdi. Up until today, it's been starting fine and running well. When I try and start it, it sounds like it's going to start right up and run like normal, but as soon as I let pressure off the key, the truck dies.

If I hold the key in the ignition position, the engine will continue running, but there's a bit of a higher pitched humming sound (not sure a better way to describe it).

This is my first Defender, so I'm not sure what's normal when the key is in the "on" position without the engine running, but none of my gauges (gas, battery, etc.) move when in this position. Blinkers also don't work in this position (hazards do), nor do lights, wipers, etc.

Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 06:54 PM
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sounds like your not getting 12v in the on positon. If I understand what your saying, if you hold the key in the start position your starter is still engaged with the flywheel and making the noise.
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  #3  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 07:27 PM
rjwellman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedpin View Post
sounds like your not getting 12v in the on positon. If I understand what your saying, if you hold the key in the start position your starter is still engaged with the flywheel and making the noise.
Would that be a wiring issue with not getting 12v in the on position that I could suss out pretty easily?
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  #4  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 08:48 PM
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I had the exact same issue with my '94 NAS 90, yes it was the ignition switch. Email me if you want the bypass instructions .
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  #5  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 09:17 PM
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If you do replace the ignition switch, I would upgrade to the newer version with the large key that you can also get the lock sets for the doors so you have one key all of the way around....and just as a reminder if you do order a new one, make sure you order the new bolts that clamp the unit to the steering column as they must be drilled out to remove them...
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  #6  
Old July 24th, 2016, 06:37 AM
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I am dealing with the same issue right now. To save you some time and money...just replace the ignition switch which is the part at the very end of the ignition. Its a very inexpensive part. There is no need to remove the entire ignition (like I did) which requires drilling out the shear head bolts that hold it in place. Instead...just remove your dash instrument panel, then look for the two small screws located 180 0ut from each other at the back of the ignition which hold the ignition switch in place. That will release the switch portion of the ignition so that you can replace it with the new one.

P.S. That high pitched whirring sound is probably your starter continuing to turn due to the spring in the switch not returning the key to the proper position after starting.
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  #7  
Old July 24th, 2016, 09:35 AM
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nice tip!

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  #8  
Old July 24th, 2016, 10:02 AM
rjwellman
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What part numbers should I be trying to find? Either for just the ignition switch or for the whole set up with new locks.
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  #9  
Old July 24th, 2016, 11:04 AM
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You want LR039638. Its the part I'm holding in the picture. It is just a switch, which costs about 16 pounds through JC Craddocks. You don't need the entire lock assembly...that would be very expensive.
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  #10  
Old July 25th, 2016, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuamBomb View Post
You want LR039638. Its the part I'm holding in the picture. It is just a switch, which costs about 16 pounds through JC Craddocks. You don't need the entire lock assembly...that would be very expensive.
WOW! That had to make somebody's day.
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  #11  
Old July 25th, 2016, 07:24 AM
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We have the starter switch in stock for both the newer style switch and the older switch. If you have a glow plug relay it is the newer style. If you must hold the key in the glow plug position before starting it is the older switch. No need to bypass anything just switch out the back of the switch. Both parts are cheap and leave the system as it should be.
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  #12  
Old July 26th, 2016, 09:55 AM
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Javier Velador
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Same problem with my NAS D90. How long does it take to switch out just the ignition switch? I'm debating whether to take to a nearby shop, or my apartment building and fix myself.
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  #13  
Old July 26th, 2016, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvelador View Post
Same problem with my NAS D90. How long does it take to switch out just the ignition switch? I'm debating whether to take to a nearby shop, or my apartment building and fix myself.
30 minutes if the steering cowel etc haven't yet been removed. I have a thread from years ago with a bunch of pics.
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  #14  
Old July 26th, 2016, 03:40 PM
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Yep...30 minutes tops. Take out 4 screws holding the dash instrument panel, disconnect speedo cable, let dash instrument panel hang to the side out of the way, undo 2 small screws holding ignition switch onto back of ignition and remove old switch, install new switch and transfer over wires to the proper terminals. Test it out and then put back together in reverse order. Easy day.

Just got my new switch in the mail today and installed it. Mine is good to go now!
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  #15  
Old July 26th, 2016, 04:51 PM
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Btw... The shear bolts are removed with a chisel - used to turn the bolt (not cut it off) and a hammer lightly... You can cut in a slot for a std screw driver after you remove them.
After you remove them just replace them with a std Phillips head machine screw or put them back in
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  #16  
Old July 26th, 2016, 05:02 PM
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There is no need to remove the the shear bolts and mechanical portion of the ignition if you are just replacing the switch. But you are correct, they will come out with a little coaxing from a chisel.
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  #17  
Old July 26th, 2016, 09:04 PM
rjwellman
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Thanks for the replies, everyone! Picked up a switch today and just installed it. Surprisingly simple, even for someone who'd never performed such a task!
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