Axle Swap w/Disco I - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 16th, 2010, 02:11 PM
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Dr. Gonzo
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Axle Swap w/Disco I

You've mostly seen the condition of my axles, and the consensus is to find some Disco 1 axles and swap them out. OK - so I've found some nice condition, reasonably priced axles. What can I expect when these cast iron bastards land in my garage?

I found this comment searching the archives:

Quote:
It is a clean swap, but the brakes on a Disco are different. The 90's have a vented front rotor and wider calipers. The track rods are slightly different too. The axle are 24 spine and the diff gearing is the same 3.54.
Can I just put on the new rotors and rebuilt calipers from my Defender on and bolt everything back up where it matches, or will I have a myriad of one-off stuff I'm going to have to fabricate, and reconfigure? Are they mix and match with the Defender axles?

It sounds like the back is truly bolt-on/plug & play, right? The front is where it may be off. The donor axles are from a '99 D1.

Anyone who's gone through this care to explain in weekend mechanic terms?

As always, the collective knowledge is appreciated.

Jerod
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  #2  
Old June 16th, 2010, 02:18 PM
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The track rod and tie rod are different.

As mentioned, the D90 has vented rotors and the calipers with spacer to fit -- they are nicer but not required.

If you swap a Disco I steering pitman arm on, you can just bolt them up complete. Downside is that you move the steering damper behind the axle where it is vunerable to damage. If you swap on the D90 tie rod and track rod, this issue is eliminated and you retain the D90 steering arm (rebuild the ball joint while you are at it if it is suspect).

Discos have ABS sensors but you just don't use them. You may have to get creative to plug the holes.

Rear is the same except that the disco does not have the triangle brackets at the top of the A-frame. You can use the ones on the D-90 (probably the easiest place to separate anyway). You need to take out the two input brake line T and use the D90 one input brake line T.

Someone else might come up with some other differences too.
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  #3  
Old June 16th, 2010, 02:43 PM
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Don Bunnell
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I have a rear Disco I axle sitting in the garage stripped for the most part and will be putting a Toyota diff in it.

Ron mentioned the main differences - brake line needs to be swapped and I'm replacing my ball joint anyway and will change it there.

I had some ABS wiring but they were easy to pull and I will just leave them off for the rebuild.

One thing that I've been meaning to ask other D90 heads it the Disco rear Diff. The defender has a 4 bolt for the driveshaft the Disco has a 3 bolt. Both Diffs (well, the extra one I have in the garage with an ARB in it) have the same numbers.
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  #4  
Old June 16th, 2010, 03:39 PM
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You can swap the flange and spacer off the 90 disco guys swap them off RRC all the time to use a 2 joint shaft
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  #5  
Old June 16th, 2010, 03:51 PM
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Some discos had the "rotoflex" on the rear driveshaft. You need to swap flanges and use a spacer or something to fit the normal D90 flange to them or you can just use the whole D90 diff.

BTW the brake lines are close enough if not the same, it is the T-piece that joins them in the middle that needs to be swapped. Discos have four channel brakes (each rear wheel is on a separate line) where as D90s are three channel with both rear wheels on the same line.

Not a big deal to swap that little T-piece though.
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  #6  
Old June 16th, 2010, 06:45 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogfood1 View Post
Can I just put on the new rotors and rebuilt calipers from my Defender on and bolt everything back up where it matches, or will I have a myriad of one-off stuff I'm going to have to fabricate, and reconfigure? Are they mix and match with the Defender axles?
Jerod, I'm not sure you want to do this for the right reasons. The suggestion was made to avoid doing some of the things you describe, or at least allow you to defer them and do them at your leisure on the bench so to speak when time and funds permitted. What you describe above defeats the point, and you are effectively just swapping out the parts that need swapping out the least.

If you are going to get new rotors and rebuild the calipers, just do so on the D90 axles. Check your brake lines and do them at the same time if needed. No point in doing an axle swap.

Unless I am missing something?

charles
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  #7  
Old June 16th, 2010, 06:52 PM
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His swivel balls are shot too.
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  #8  
Old June 16th, 2010, 06:56 PM
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Charles, I think you're injecting a good dose of the reality I need. I've been thinking all week about the nightmare logistics and technical aspects of doing the axles. It's a slippery slope, and the as I lose focus, I lose time and money. For now I think the axle swap is off the table.

And yes, I'm practically redoing the entire brake system, including the rear lines, so that would be redundant work. As far as the other stuff, maybe phase 2 or 3.
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  #9  
Old June 16th, 2010, 07:09 PM
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Just keep buying rovers and rover parts until you get to the point where all you have to do is remember where the spare part you need to swap in is located -- not whether you have it.

Ron
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  #10  
Old June 16th, 2010, 07:18 PM
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Charles Galpin
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It wouldn't hurt to see more detailed pictures of the swivel balls but I doubt they are shot. Worse case they may wear the seals a bit prematurely, but keep them well greased and no worries there either.

Yeah if you are already going down the path of doing the brake lines etc, just fix your brakes on the D90.

And I see you laughing at Ron's post above... except it becomes true, so it's really no laughing matter. LOL.
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  #11  
Old June 16th, 2010, 07:39 PM
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Charles, they look like solid rust from the picture he posted.

Ron

edit: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...&postcount=152
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  #12  
Old June 16th, 2010, 07:40 PM
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No - definitely not rusted out. Coated in grease maybe, but not rust.

I wish there were more guys like you around here. Seems like the Defender skipped Chicagoland. Too challenging a climate I suppose.
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  #13  
Old June 16th, 2010, 07:42 PM
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CRED is in chicago.
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  #14  
Old June 16th, 2010, 07:45 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Haha, you are quicker than me. I search and found the same photo. Not nearly enough evidence to show they are shot.

Jerod, put us out of our misery and give us a couple of nice close ups of the swivel balls after you have cleaned them off as best you can with a rag and some solvent or brake cleaner please. Go gentle on the seals otherwise you can't really hurt them with a wire brush.
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  #15  
Old June 16th, 2010, 07:47 PM
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There is no chrome left on them. I would not even call them Ron good.
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  #16  
Old June 16th, 2010, 07:49 PM
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Charles Galpin
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You are such a naysayer. 5 bucks says all you are seeing is rust dust on the grease from his wire wheeling. You can send it back with Bobeck, thanks

And he has your bumper parts btw - funny story as they went full circle. That bumper came off his truck, went to Dmitry's, then to me, and then those bits are now back in the rear of of truck!
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  #17  
Old June 16th, 2010, 08:29 PM
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Sweet. I look forward to hanging out with Bobeck when he comes up.
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  #18  
Old June 16th, 2010, 10:09 PM
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People have reclaimed Series swivel balls that were very badly rust pitted by getting rid of the rust then coating them with epoxy. Still working well over 10 years later.

As far as the Disco to D90 axle swap, it's easy to relocate the steering damper to the front.
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  #19  
Old June 16th, 2010, 10:19 PM
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Dr. Gonzo
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$5 to Charles

I'm pretty sure Charles owes Ron $5. I took a rag and some of my favorite liquid tool and just wiped them off to take the picture. With a bit of elbow grease and solvent, it looks like that rust on the collar should lift off.

You know, I look at pictures like these and see the rust, I want to kick the PO's arse for not parking it on pavement. Then I remember he's dead, and I feel bad.
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  #20  
Old June 16th, 2010, 10:33 PM
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You should head to one of these meetings:

http://www.chicagolandroverclub.com/

I wheel with them a long while back and they had a few 90s in the club.
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