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Old July 1st, 2010, 07:58 PM
Defender90_218's Avatar
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Trenton Smith
1997 D90
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kerrville, Texas, USA
Posts: 84
Axle Dislocation Kit ?s

Im interested in getting more articulation and I have a few questions about axle dislocation kits

1. How do they work? (dumb question I know)
2. What are the parts needed?
3. Does it lift the vehicle any? (wanna be able to keep it in the garage)
4. And lastly can it be used in conjunction with rear spring spacers used for leveling?

Any info would be helpful.


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Old July 2nd, 2010, 01:13 AM
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Ian Gregory
'97 D90 ST #1008
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Henderson, NV USA
Posts: 1,085
Do you mean a spring dislocation set up like the 1st pic? If so then its a pretty large subject to try and answer easily but I'll try and hit the high points. So to answer your questions:

1. The amount of axle travel is (mostly) controlled by the amount of available travel in the Shock Absorbers (unless you have limiting straps fitted). Longer travel shocks or stock travel shocks and a drop kit (like I have) or lowered shock mounts will allow the axle to drop down further. This means the spring (wich is only retained at the axle end normally) will become unseated at the top. Disclocation cones are required to push the spring back into the seat as the axle comes back up. You can buy them from a number of different places and there are a few different designs, but they all do the same thing.
I say mostly on the shocks because the next limit is normally the trailing arm to frame mount. You can see in the 1st pic that my trailing arms are about at their limit and the frame bushing is beginning to bind. The answer to this is a modified (bent) trailing arm like those shown in the 3rd pic borrowed from RoverTym's web site. Again there are a few different ones out there but they do a similar job. They also fix a weak point as stock arms are prone to breaking or bending.
2. Spring Cones and shocks (or a drop kit/lowered shock mounts) are what you need but you should fit upgraded retainers for the springs as well. Depending on the amount of extra travel you may need an extended brake line. On 97s you might have to extend the ABS wires as well if you go really low. Depending on the amount of travel you may need modified trailing arms to limit the binding at the frame.
3. No it doesn't lift the vehicle any as it only affects the amount of down travel typically.
4. If your spacers sit below the lower spring seat then they shouldn't affect anything.

I have upgraded lower spring retainers from Expedition Exchange (2nd Pic). The Spring cones put more strain on the retainers and the stock ones are weak and can bend.

You'll find mixed opinions on this as some like me think the spring should be allowed to unseat and let the axle drop as far as it can for maximum articulation and traction. Others prefer to add a retainer to the top of the spring to stop it unseating and let the spring help to limit the amount of down travel. This 2nd option is typically easier on the shocks but can restrict the available down travel. Some also don't like the noise that the cones make when the spring rubs against them. If you fit the cones wrong then they can rub against the spring during normal driving on the road. Mine don't, they only make a noise as they unseat and return under severe articulation (just tells me they're working and what level of articulation I am under). Other designs of cones may rub at other times.

My current set up allows me up to 4" of extra down travel at the wheel using stock springs and shocks with no change to the on-road height or driving characteristics of the truck. I am at the limit on my brake line and trailing arms though and will need to change them before I go to the next stage and fit longer travel shocks or lowered mounts.

Not definitive by any means but I hope it answers the main points you where looking for and gives you some ideas?


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Old July 2nd, 2010, 06:38 AM
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Jamie Austin
1992 110 Td5 CSW & 1989 MB G-Wagen
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wiltshire, UK
Posts: 1,345
Just to be pedantic.... they are relocation cones, as the allow the spring to re-locate back in its original place.

on my 90 i made some "lowered damper mounts"... I cut the threaded piece off of the top mount, and re-welded it back at the bottom, where the single bolt is, which gave me about 2"~2.5" of extra droop. with some cranked trailling arms (to get the stress off of the rear bush) i got some nice down travel. no extra lift (as i used normal HD springs).

although my 110 has factory suspension, and i get around well enough! although here in the UK there's not much in the way of rocks etc to crawl over.
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