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Aux Heater?

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heater
8K views 59 replies 28 participants last post by  Overlander 
#1 ·
Hello again;

I've heard stories of people adding a second heater to their D90s... has anyone here done it? I didn't see it in the FAQ or in the archives...

Yes, I know about new door seals and a drop curtain and all of that. But for hauling a full car of people long distances, this seems like a great option.

I'd like to look into seeing how other people did it before I get the tuffy center box in case I decide to mount it in there and cut holes in the back... Anyone have pics/model names?

Cheers;

Chris
 
#52 ·
Nigel

I have a 94 D-90 with this option fitted, as I'm having poor heat output issues from the main heater could you please tell me if the aux heater hoses on yours are connected in series with the main heater box to form a "straight" path through each and back.

Thanks in advance

Fraser
 
#54 ·
I'm in Tewkesbury, Quebec Canada. Pretty cold. I thought about putting a second heater (inboard matrix) but the problem is that a 200tdi doesn't get hot enough to put out heat in the first matrix. Putting a second one with the piping would be useless and I guess would worsen the situation as the engine would be impossible to gain any heat at all.. So I bought a Webasto pre-heater and a Webasto cab heater. The cab heater give enough heat to warm up the 110 (van bodied) and as it's an Ex-mod FFR the tub is like a swiss cheese. The rear door was smash in an accident and gives a draft in the neck! But it copes with that, greatly I must admit.. The Webasto is located under the passenger seats and blow to the driver feet as well as the passenger's by tubing in the seat box.
 
#55 ·
Agree with most of the points made and would summarize.

The diesel puts out SHITE for heat especially in traffic.....actually seems to suck heat out of it's surroundings!!

I've got an Espar and program it to turn on at least an hour before I plan on leaving in the morning. The coolant temp is 170 and quickly drops to 130-140 in traffic (idling). I actually leave the Espar on when I am traveling unless I get on the highway and start cruising at highway speeds. I cannot imagine how horribly cold it would be without it. Even with it on it only blows high-warm but at least it is something.

I would go in this order..........

1. Seat warmers
- most "bang for the buck"
- relatively easy install
- very efficient, ie warms up your core (torso/butt) and not the air around you
- similar efficiency concept of "radiant" heat versus forced-air in a home
- I used to think this was a "luxury" accessory and not for "real" 4x4's -- so, so wrong

2. Radiator Muffler
- this will make a BIG difference to get temps up and keep them up
- cheap and easy to install
- good for the engine (oil temps)
- I have almost the entire radiator completely covered
- even at highway speeds temps don't get over 180 (but it's also about 10 degrees in Chicago)

3. Espar or other pre-heater
- expensive and more complicated install (worth every $ IMHO)
- good for the engine on start AND even while traveling especially in traffic or shorter distances
- can program or remote start
- can work in a pinch if you are stranded, ie survival heat when you don't want to waste fuel on engine

4. Accessory heater
- electric heaters just do not work; way underpowered; mostly radiant (local); least bang for buck
- Espar or other Airtronic; probably best answer but same cons as pre-heater; where to put it?

5. Insulating
- this should be done regardless and makes a big difference
- lots of drafts that can be caulked/plugged; door jambs; windows
- it is true the aluminum in the truck is thin and conducts very easily
- don't know about bang for buck but is also nice for noise

6. Others
- have not experience with uprated heater core (am likely going to try one)
- love the idea of the Heatercraft but the problem is it will not "produce" heat
- this will only take away more heat from primary core which is already marginal
- if you could REPLACE the OEM with Heatercraft that is likely best but not to "add on"
- also additional complication and risk of more hoses and connectors to go bad
 
#58 ·
Agree with most of the points made and would summarize.

The diesel puts out SHITE for heat especially in traffic.....actually seems to suck heat out of it's surroundings!!

I've got an Espar and program it to turn on at least an hour before I plan on leaving in the morning. The coolant temp is 170 and quickly drops to 130-140 in traffic (idling). I actually leave the Espar on when I am traveling unless I get on the highway and start cruising at highway speeds. I cannot imagine how horribly cold it would be without it. Even with it on it only blows high-warm but at least it is something.

I would go in this order..........

1. Seat warmers
- most "bang for the buck"
- relatively easy install
- very efficient, ie warms up your core (torso/butt) and not the air around you
- similar efficiency concept of "radiant" heat versus forced-air in a home
- I used to think this was a "luxury" accessory and not for "real" 4x4's -- so, so wrong

2. Radiator Muffler
- this will make a BIG difference to get temps up and keep them up
- cheap and easy to install
- good for the engine (oil temps)
- I have almost the entire radiator completely covered
- even at highway speeds temps don't get over 180 (but it's also about 10 degrees in Chicago)

3. Espar or other pre-heater
- expensive and more complicated install (worth every $ IMHO)
- good for the engine on start AND even while traveling especially in traffic or shorter distances
- can program or remote start
- can work in a pinch if you are stranded, ie survival heat when you don't want to waste fuel on engine

4. Accessory heater
- electric heaters just do not work; way underpowered; mostly radiant (local); least bang for buck
- Espar or other Airtronic; probably best answer but same cons as pre-heater; where to put it?

5. Insulating
- this should be done regardless and makes a big difference
- lots of drafts that can be caulked/plugged; door jambs; windows
- it is true the aluminum in the truck is thin and conducts very easily
- don't know about bang for buck but is also nice for noise

6. Others
- have not experience with uprated heater core (am likely going to try one)
- love the idea of the Heatercraft but the problem is it will not "produce" heat
- this will only take away more heat from primary core which is already marginal
- if you could REPLACE the OEM with Heatercraft that is likely best but not to "add on"
- also additional complication and risk of more hoses and connectors to go bad
Completely agree with everything Nikojo just stated. I spent the money and time to install soun d and heat insulation throughout the cabin this last summer, and it makes a big difference in the effectiveness of all other efforts. I also installed a Webasto Thermotop Z/C and it has changed my seasonal life. I park outside so I have it kick on 1 hour prior to rolling in the morning (6am for 7am departure) and when I open my door to start the vehicle, I get hit with a heat wave. Our lows in Charlotte this last 2 weeks have been 15F-25F, so I'm pretty impressed. Webasto was installed last spring so this is first real test of severe cold. I had an electric block heater before the webasto, and it just didn't work very well..even after being left on for hours. I will also say that the Webasto wouldn't be nearly as effective in warming the cabin without the insulation.

I can also say when driving around town locally, I have to run the webasto continuously when at or below mid 20's F. My webasto is plumbed right before my heater matrix, and as I'm driving, the heater puts out great heat, even though my temp is only around 120-130F. But if I shut down the webasto while driving in those temps, within minutes, the temp drops from the heater output significantly to cool or cold.

I have seat heaters, and they are the best bang for buck as mentioned. I bought them from seatheaterkit.com and they provide warmth in minutes of activation, which can close the gap when starting the vehicle without preheat.

All that said, I have an RN radiator muff on full time now, so that does help keep the heat up when it gets up. I have a new one on the way from Rugged Guide to replace it
 
#60 ·
I actually cut a big hole in my RN radiator muff in front of the intercooler, and wish I hadn't. If it's cold enough outside for a muff, then that intercooler matrix is going to be chilly enough, even blocked, it'll be colder than it would be flowing in a summer breeze on the highway. that fan is still pulling air through it, but the majority of air is just coming from the engine bay. when it's 20ish degrees out or colder, my mantec snorkel is probably doing all the work in keeping that intake air cool anyway.

That big hole I made is the primary motivation for ordering a new one; IC doesn't need it, but radiator does.
 
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