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  #41  
Old February 7th, 2007, 10:37 PM
Shake
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Bob Hanson AKA Two-Socks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander
I got mine for $75 per seat from Heatedseatkits.com. Came with harness. You can view the details at http://www.heatedseatkits.com/heatedseatkits/index.html. The model I got was the Innovative Heat II.
Each seat took about 30 minutes to install, however tag on an extra 2 hours when I tried (and succeeded) in tying both power leads into the vehicle fuse panel, which i preferred to having the seperate inline fuse holders that came with kit harness. .
Overlander. Thanks for the info. Followed the link and am confused by the ad. When you order the kit do you get a heating element for one cushion, or both bottom and back?

Any problems with wires getting tangled if you need to remove the cushions. Anybody make a dash insert for extra switches? Like lights, seat heat, aux heaters. Thinking I need more room than is available in stock config. Any way to expand# of fuses - larger fuse box available?

Thanks
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  #42  
Old February 11th, 2007, 01:39 PM
andyrad
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Andy Radlgruber
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[QUOTE=Overlander]I got mine for $75 per seat from Heatedseatkits.com. Came with harness. You can view the details at http://www.heatedseatkits.com/heatedseatkits/index.html. The model I got was the Innovative Heat II.

I saw this and went to their site and ordered some for my front seats. They arrived in two days. Very nice package BUT beware of the canon plug connectors. The job they do on these is crap. I had to remove about four wires and redo them otherwise it would have never worked. Maybe even start a fire. Double check everything and clean it up BEFORE you start the install. It's easier to redo these connections on the workbench than behind the seat or in the battery box.
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  #43  
Old February 16th, 2007, 08:48 AM
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Neil McLeod
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I'd like to install seat heaters too. What's the name of the manufacturer?

Cheers,

Neil

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander
For what it's worth, I recently installed seat heaters in my front seats. It was an easy DIY job and they are my best upgrade so far. The warm in about 2 minutes, and keep me comfortable until the engine gets warm. The ones I got have a high and low setting, and on high, I"m ready to take my jacket off, before the engine is even warm on the way to work. I had to come up with a solution, as the 2.8 diesel has a 5 core radiator, and like to run under a 100* most of the time. (RN radiator muff on the way).
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  #44  
Old February 16th, 2007, 09:09 PM
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Neil McLeod
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Bump

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erimus 1
I'd like to install seat heaters too. What's the name of the manufacturer?

Cheers,

Neil
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  #45  
Old February 16th, 2007, 11:33 PM
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mark kellgren
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Each kit comes with a heating element for BOTH the base and the seat back. they both tie into a single harness, and the base seat has an integrated temp sensore (to prevent overheating) and pressure sensor (will cut the power to the seat if nobody is sitting in it). The way I ran my harness, there is no issue with having to disconnet the harness to each seat base when removing to access the battery/seat boxes. I just lift the base up and set it on the center console to get at my battery. The base element has a quick disconnect if I want to move it further than that. I can take pics if anyone is interested.
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  #46  
Old February 17th, 2007, 11:05 AM
Shake
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Bob Hanson AKA Two-Socks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander
Each kit comes with a heating element for BOTH the base and the seat back. they both tie into a single harness, and the base seat has an integrated temp sensore (to prevent overheating) and pressure sensor (will cut the power to the seat if nobody is sitting in it). The way I ran my harness, there is no issue with having to disconnet the harness to each seat base when removing to access the battery/seat boxes. I just lift the base up and set it on the center console to get at my battery. The base element has a quick disconnect if I want to move it further than that. I can take pics if anyone is interested.
Overlander - Did you notice the same thing with the Cannon connectors? Thanks for the follow up information.
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  #47  
Old February 17th, 2007, 12:30 PM
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Neil McLeod
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Many thanks for letting me know who makes these kits. <sarcastic> smiley

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander
Each kit comes with a heating element for BOTH the base and the seat back. they both tie into a single harness, and the base seat has an integrated temp sensore (to prevent overheating) and pressure sensor (will cut the power to the seat if nobody is sitting in it). The way I ran my harness, there is no issue with having to disconnet the harness to each seat base when removing to access the battery/seat boxes. I just lift the base up and set it on the center console to get at my battery. The base element has a quick disconnect if I want to move it further than that. I can take pics if anyone is interested.
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  #48  
Old February 17th, 2007, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erimus 1
Many thanks for letting me know who makes these kits. <sarcastic> smiley
I don't think anybody answered you because the answer is right here in this thread on page 1.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...6&postcount=30
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  #49  
Old February 17th, 2007, 09:57 PM
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Neil McLeod
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That's no excuse! That'll teach me not to read the complete thread. I guessed that's what it must have been so went ahead and ordered a kit. Canada's way too cold to drive around without a warm butt.

Cheers newfD90!
Quote:
Originally Posted by newfD90
I don't think anybody answered you because the answer is right here in this thread on page 1.


http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...6&postcount=30
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  #50  
Old February 17th, 2007, 11:26 PM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shake
Overlander - Did you notice the same thing with the Cannon connectors? Thanks for the follow up information.
No I didn't. Haven't had any issues whatsoever with the system, to include the harness. I still marvel everytime I put my seat base back on after getting at my batteries, and watching the harness that the base is tethered to slip itself back through without assistance, and without binding. When I installed it, i though it would be a PITA I would just have to accept.

Oh ya, and DAMN, does my seat get nice and toasty in the first few minutes on my way to work every day! Now that I have RN radiator muff installed, I'm set! Cold is eliminated in my D.
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  #51  
Old March 7th, 2007, 11:07 AM
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Follow up:

I've got my seat heaters on order from Exmoor (via Trevor @ rovahfarm.com). $109 for both sides, wiring, etc. Of course, while I'm in there I figured I'd better replace the seat foams and replace that grey moorland cloth with some nice XS leather covers. So my $109 seat heaters escalated to $572...
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  #52  
Old December 16th, 2010, 09:21 PM
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Fraser Gourlay
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Nigel

I have a 94 D-90 with this option fitted, as I'm having poor heat output issues from the main heater could you please tell me if the aux heater hoses on yours are connected in series with the main heater box to form a "straight" path through each and back.

Thanks in advance

Fraser
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  #53  
Old December 16th, 2010, 09:55 PM
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  #54  
Old December 17th, 2010, 11:12 PM
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Jeff Labbé
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I'm in Tewkesbury, Quebec Canada. Pretty cold. I thought about putting a second heater (inboard matrix) but the problem is that a 200tdi doesn't get hot enough to put out heat in the first matrix. Putting a second one with the piping would be useless and I guess would worsen the situation as the engine would be impossible to gain any heat at all.. So I bought a Webasto pre-heater and a Webasto cab heater. The cab heater give enough heat to warm up the 110 (van bodied) and as it's an Ex-mod FFR the tub is like a swiss cheese. The rear door was smash in an accident and gives a draft in the neck! But it copes with that, greatly I must admit.. The Webasto is located under the passenger seats and blow to the driver feet as well as the passenger's by tubing in the seat box.
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  #55  
Old December 19th, 2010, 11:20 PM
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Agree with most of the points made and would summarize.

The diesel puts out SHITE for heat especially in traffic.....actually seems to suck heat out of it's surroundings!!

I've got an Espar and program it to turn on at least an hour before I plan on leaving in the morning. The coolant temp is 170 and quickly drops to 130-140 in traffic (idling). I actually leave the Espar on when I am traveling unless I get on the highway and start cruising at highway speeds. I cannot imagine how horribly cold it would be without it. Even with it on it only blows high-warm but at least it is something.

I would go in this order..........

1. Seat warmers
- most "bang for the buck"
- relatively easy install
- very efficient, ie warms up your core (torso/butt) and not the air around you
- similar efficiency concept of "radiant" heat versus forced-air in a home
- I used to think this was a "luxury" accessory and not for "real" 4x4's -- so, so wrong

2. Radiator Muffler
- this will make a BIG difference to get temps up and keep them up
- cheap and easy to install
- good for the engine (oil temps)
- I have almost the entire radiator completely covered
- even at highway speeds temps don't get over 180 (but it's also about 10 degrees in Chicago)

3. Espar or other pre-heater
- expensive and more complicated install (worth every $ IMHO)
- good for the engine on start AND even while traveling especially in traffic or shorter distances
- can program or remote start
- can work in a pinch if you are stranded, ie survival heat when you don't want to waste fuel on engine

4. Accessory heater
- electric heaters just do not work; way underpowered; mostly radiant (local); least bang for buck
- Espar or other Airtronic; probably best answer but same cons as pre-heater; where to put it?

5. Insulating
- this should be done regardless and makes a big difference
- lots of drafts that can be caulked/plugged; door jambs; windows
- it is true the aluminum in the truck is thin and conducts very easily
- don't know about bang for buck but is also nice for noise

6. Others
- have not experience with uprated heater core (am likely going to try one)
- love the idea of the Heatercraft but the problem is it will not "produce" heat
- this will only take away more heat from primary core which is already marginal
- if you could REPLACE the OEM with Heatercraft that is likely best but not to "add on"
- also additional complication and risk of more hoses and connectors to go bad
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  #56  
Old December 20th, 2010, 05:57 AM
maleger
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Marc-Andre Leger
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I have the canadian heater option in my D90 (CDN18). It is not that great... I would look for something better. Last week, with -15C it was not much help. However, it is possible that it may need some adjustment.
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  #57  
Old December 20th, 2010, 07:43 AM
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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?sh...1&#entry541432

What about this option?
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  #58  
Old December 20th, 2010, 09:31 AM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikojo View Post
Agree with most of the points made and would summarize.

The diesel puts out SHITE for heat especially in traffic.....actually seems to suck heat out of it's surroundings!!

I've got an Espar and program it to turn on at least an hour before I plan on leaving in the morning. The coolant temp is 170 and quickly drops to 130-140 in traffic (idling). I actually leave the Espar on when I am traveling unless I get on the highway and start cruising at highway speeds. I cannot imagine how horribly cold it would be without it. Even with it on it only blows high-warm but at least it is something.

I would go in this order..........

1. Seat warmers
- most "bang for the buck"
- relatively easy install
- very efficient, ie warms up your core (torso/butt) and not the air around you
- similar efficiency concept of "radiant" heat versus forced-air in a home
- I used to think this was a "luxury" accessory and not for "real" 4x4's -- so, so wrong

2. Radiator Muffler
- this will make a BIG difference to get temps up and keep them up
- cheap and easy to install
- good for the engine (oil temps)
- I have almost the entire radiator completely covered
- even at highway speeds temps don't get over 180 (but it's also about 10 degrees in Chicago)

3. Espar or other pre-heater
- expensive and more complicated install (worth every $ IMHO)
- good for the engine on start AND even while traveling especially in traffic or shorter distances
- can program or remote start
- can work in a pinch if you are stranded, ie survival heat when you don't want to waste fuel on engine

4. Accessory heater
- electric heaters just do not work; way underpowered; mostly radiant (local); least bang for buck
- Espar or other Airtronic; probably best answer but same cons as pre-heater; where to put it?

5. Insulating
- this should be done regardless and makes a big difference
- lots of drafts that can be caulked/plugged; door jambs; windows
- it is true the aluminum in the truck is thin and conducts very easily
- don't know about bang for buck but is also nice for noise

6. Others
- have not experience with uprated heater core (am likely going to try one)
- love the idea of the Heatercraft but the problem is it will not "produce" heat
- this will only take away more heat from primary core which is already marginal
- if you could REPLACE the OEM with Heatercraft that is likely best but not to "add on"
- also additional complication and risk of more hoses and connectors to go bad
Completely agree with everything Nikojo just stated. I spent the money and time to install soun d and heat insulation throughout the cabin this last summer, and it makes a big difference in the effectiveness of all other efforts. I also installed a Webasto Thermotop Z/C and it has changed my seasonal life. I park outside so I have it kick on 1 hour prior to rolling in the morning (6am for 7am departure) and when I open my door to start the vehicle, I get hit with a heat wave. Our lows in Charlotte this last 2 weeks have been 15F-25F, so I'm pretty impressed. Webasto was installed last spring so this is first real test of severe cold. I had an electric block heater before the webasto, and it just didn't work very well..even after being left on for hours. I will also say that the Webasto wouldn't be nearly as effective in warming the cabin without the insulation.

I can also say when driving around town locally, I have to run the webasto continuously when at or below mid 20's F. My webasto is plumbed right before my heater matrix, and as I'm driving, the heater puts out great heat, even though my temp is only around 120-130F. But if I shut down the webasto while driving in those temps, within minutes, the temp drops from the heater output significantly to cool or cold.

I have seat heaters, and they are the best bang for buck as mentioned. I bought them from seatheaterkit.com and they provide warmth in minutes of activation, which can close the gap when starting the vehicle without preheat.

All that said, I have an RN radiator muff on full time now, so that does help keep the heat up when it gets up. I have a new one on the way from Rugged Guide to replace it
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  #59  
Old December 20th, 2010, 12:47 PM
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Jeff Labbé
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By the way, If one block the air going in the engine bay with a cardboard or a proper rad muff, it will help warming up the engine but what about the intercooler?
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  #60  
Old December 21st, 2010, 12:24 PM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDNRover View Post
By the way, If one block the air going in the engine bay with a cardboard or a proper rad muff, it will help warming up the engine but what about the intercooler?
I actually cut a big hole in my RN radiator muff in front of the intercooler, and wish I hadn't. If it's cold enough outside for a muff, then that intercooler matrix is going to be chilly enough, even blocked, it'll be colder than it would be flowing in a summer breeze on the highway. that fan is still pulling air through it, but the majority of air is just coming from the engine bay. when it's 20ish degrees out or colder, my mantec snorkel is probably doing all the work in keeping that intake air cool anyway.

That big hole I made is the primary motivation for ordering a new one; IC doesn't need it, but radiator does.
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