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  #1  
Old February 4th, 2011, 12:09 AM
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peter
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Auto transmission swap cooling options?

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a 94 D90 with an auto gearbox from a 97disco in it. It doesn't have a cooler installed and I would like to fit something. I noticed on rovers north you can get the 3 lines and you can get the cooler on British Atlantic. But I don't know if the install would be difficult because it wasn't made for the cooler(mounting location, trimming anything, etc)

So I was thinking of maybe getting some lines made at a local shop and getting an electric aftermarket cooler, but I don't know if there is much benefit because I'm not familiar with the stock setup and how it works.

So any opininons or comments are welcomed!

Thanks,

Pete
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  #2  
Old February 4th, 2011, 11:57 AM
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The coolers that are sold with a fan installed may be your best option. Move the radiator towards the engine a bit and install the cooler where the AC fan was in front.
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  #3  
Old February 4th, 2011, 12:20 PM
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I have a similar setup and have a 97 cooler with custom lines.
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Old February 4th, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Sorry to not be more helpful, but post a pic of your truck. There were a few with this set-up recently (within the past year) for sale. Just curious which one you ended up with.
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Old February 4th, 2011, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I have a similar setup and have a 97 cooler with custom lines.
I failed to mention that the cooler fit fine, but I did have to cut a hole in the bottom of the facia and add some aluminum mesh over the hole to allow air flow. Other than that, you shouldn't have any fitment issues. Stock 97 lines may work fine.
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Old February 4th, 2011, 02:57 PM
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Hey guys,
Thanks for the responses! That's kind of what i was thinking. I'll keep giving it a think. Gotta get that oil line upgrade going. Just took it for its first dirt roads north of town in the hills. lol oh man soo much different that anything I've ever driven before, just effortless. wow!

Here is a pic:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/46689029@N05/5416163465/
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  #7  
Old February 4th, 2011, 03:13 PM
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Is it the angel of the pic or does the front hoop look weird?
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  #8  
Old February 4th, 2011, 03:14 PM
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Nice looking truck. I see no reason not to go with a factory set up.
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  #9  
Old February 4th, 2011, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I failed to mention that the cooler fit fine, but I did have to cut a hole in the bottom of the facia and add some aluminum mesh over the hole to allow air flow. Other than that, you shouldn't have any fitment issues. Stock 97 lines may work fine.
Do you have any pics of what your install looks like? I'd like to see how it sits in there.



I think its just the angle....it was taken on my phone so maybe some fisheye effect lol. I might take a look now that you mention it.

Thanks!
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Old February 10th, 2011, 10:48 PM
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Anybody got pics of a stock cooler and its location? Just want to cross check that with aftermarket cooler and see what gives me the. Warm and fuzzies later. Thanks
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  #11  
Old February 11th, 2011, 07:18 AM
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Here you go

http://gallery.lhsw.com/view_photo.p...ll&id=DSC01993

This one gives you an idea of what my mod to the front facia looks like

http://gallery.lhsw.com/view_photo.p...ll&id=DSC01962

Stock cooler location from below

http://gallery.lhsw.com/view_photo.p...ll&id=DSC01973
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  #12  
Old February 11th, 2011, 07:55 AM
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Not to knock the factory set up, but as one might imagine, it was designed to be fit into thousands and thousands of vehicles. It's a compromise between what is cost effective/easy to install on the line/durable enough to make it thru the warranty period/operationally viable/field repairable. You don't have to use what the factory spec'd.
I would highly recommend using Earl's or Aeroquip braided stainless jacketed hose and the corresponding AN fittings. The hard lines are too exposed for my taste and if they get whacked can be dented, holed or even broken off. The flexible line has so much more give to absorb impact.
Now if you never wheel it, that's fine and you can probably use the stock set up with no issue.
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  #13  
Old February 11th, 2011, 08:08 AM
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Thousands of vehicles? The number of vehicles produced should not factor into this - perhaps the number of models for which this fits is relevant, which I'll bet is rather few.

In any event I'll concede those bottom limes could be prone to damage if you don't have any protection. I have a front skid but ran without one for a long time and wheeled it plenty hard. Even "exposed" that is tucked up pretty far - you have to be doing something really stupid to damage it.
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  #14  
Old February 11th, 2011, 10:16 PM
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Cool thanks for the pics!
I was thinking that recessed area on the facia was where it would go. I like the looks of the stock setup. I think I'll try that and see how it goes. Definitely better that the 6in rubber hose and clamps that just recircs the fluid.

Going for a little run tomorrow!
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Old February 14th, 2011, 11:23 PM
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So things went pretty well. Pretty sure I need some new tires, all that sloppy mud and snow got a bit intense at times.

Thinking about the stock cooler, does putting a winch bumper cut down on the airflow to the cooler location? I think the winch and bumper will coincide with the cooler install.

I noticed on the slow uphill climbs the temp came up noticeably, not to the "H" but a bit more than 3/4 towards the "H" it came back down when not climbing. And it would come down faster if going faster and not just poking along. So just wondering if that's normal. Usually just sits right in the middle of the gauge. I guess a better gauge with actual numbers would say more. So any recommendations on gauges?

Thanks guys,
Pete

I was told that it recently had a new water pump and hoses installed. So I will try to "burp" the system also.
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  #16  
Old February 15th, 2011, 08:36 AM
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I'm sure a bumper and winch obstructs the flow, but couldn't tell you how much.

Sounds like you need to get your radiator checked after making sure it's burped. Get a cheap hand held infrared temperature gauge and check the real temps but you really don't want to be going over the midpoint much.
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  #17  
Old February 15th, 2011, 09:32 PM
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It was straight coolant right away out of both ports. So I assume it's not air trapped in there.

I was reading one of the overheating threads and one came down to the tranny. Having never driven a D90 before I don't have anything to compare to, but accelerating seems a bit labored for how fast you're going. I remember my disco1 not having to try as hard to get going. I don't know if the gearing is different, but I'm wondering if something larger isn't going on. The acceleration with the D90 just doesn't seem as clean as other autos I've driven(some vibrations) maybe that's how they are?

When i was out on my cruise this weekend it got pretty warm in the cab from the heat from the floorboards. I bet a lot of that is lack of a trans cooler and some from the engine getting hot.

Just wondering if things with the cooling system that were repaired prior to sale were an attempt to fix an issue that has yet to identify itself.

So to check the radiator should I remove it and take it to a shop?

Thanks,
Pete
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  #18  
Old February 15th, 2011, 11:32 PM
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The Defender does run hot and there are many helpful threads here on ways to cope with it. The truck has an aluminum floor and little or no insulation above the exhaust, engine and tranny. Long hills can raise the coolant temp, make the floor metal beyond hot to touch. It can also be hot enough to boil the gas in the tank at altitude.

after several attempts I went the whole hog to fix it for good!

Heres some of the suggestions on this board that I have done over the years:
  • VDO temp gauge for better accuracy
  • thorough burping - with heater on (check the threads on the best way)
  • Insulation on or under the cabin floors
  • exhaust heat wrap - full length
  • add Redline Water Wetter
  • recored radiator - used an extra row 'Desert Cooler' core
  • FlexaLite twin electric radiator puller fans - though more for low rev, low speed crawling
  • reset the ignition timing - found mine was 4 deg off (including the 2deg for altitude)
  • Ceramic coated manifolds
These changes made a big difference on the 90deg+ summer drives over the 'hill'. You probably wont need to go this far but the first three would be somehere to start and get a noticeable improvement. if the engine temp runs up, check the viscous coupling on the fan and replace the thermostat - and if that doesnt do it, recore.
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  #19  
Old February 15th, 2011, 11:33 PM
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Pendy or someone else in the know might be able to answer the heat questions, but I can tell you the interior of mine gets hot but I think they all do. Check your fan clutch before pulling the radiator, and maybe visit a radiator shop before doing so in case they can do something in place.

It's interesting that you say that, because I get the same impression about my truck as well although I really only notice on the trail. It seems like you have to get the revs higher than needed to get the transmission to engage. I have not driven a 97 D90 to compare it to. But yes you may have a different transfer case with higher gearing. What are your RPMs like at highway speed? Mine were very low so I went with 4.11 gears in my diffs which helped (although I mainly wanted it for the lower gearing on the trail).
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Old February 15th, 2011, 11:58 PM
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Thanks or the replies guys! I thought the heat in the cab made sense, just wanted to make sure.

I'll take a look at the fan also.

As for rpms.....i actually just got tach working today. It had a new alternator installed before i got it and the green/white wire wasn't on the W. A quick plug and play and we're in business. But the 5 hour drive down here Idaho i don't have much of an idea. When i started hitting 70 it sounded like it was revving pretty good, i would guess around the 3 mark. So i tried to keep it slower than that. But when i got in the hills those extra revs helped not having to kick down so much. Hills really seem to slow it down.....And its only stock tires...

Thanks,
Pete
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