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ATF and Engine Oil Recommendations?

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engine
3K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  ajh 
#1 ·
Changing my fluids. I have searched and read...

It looks like there is Royal Purple, Redline and Amsoil ATF fluids and for engine oil 15w40 Rotella T, Redline and Royal Purple 15w40 that seem to be the most popular.

What should I go with? I have about 98k on the truck now... is it even worth paying the premium now for these fluids?
 
#6 ·
5w40 has the same charecteristics as 15w40. It's just thinner at lower temperatures. Once the engine is up to operating temperature 15w40 has the same viscosity as as 5w40. When it comes down to it it's all about the shear rating for the oil. I run 5w40 diesel truck mobile one https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx. It's got a higher shear rating and will keep a land rover engine lasting much lunger then say a normal 5w30 synthetic. Plus you can buy the stuff at Autozone.
 
#8 ·
been running Amsoil 10-40 synthetic for the last 5 years, just switched to Mobil 0-40 synthetic -pretty smooth running and happy with the 0 (engine has 78K). After reading that LR now recommends MTF for all transmissions, I'm thinking of going Redline as many have pointed out here as the best alternative Trans oil to see if shift performance will increase at operating temps.(Usually shifts smooth, but can sometimes get sticky during long runs)
 
#9 · (Edited)
thewap said:
been running Amsoil 10-40 synthetic for the last 5 years, just switched to Mobil 0-40 synthetic -pretty smooth running and happy with the 0 (engine has 78K). After reading that LR now recommends MTF for all transmissions, I'm thinking of going Redline as many have pointed out here as the best alternative Trans oil to see if shift performance will increase at operating temps.(Usually shifts smooth, but can sometimes get sticky during long runs)
I think I've mentioned it before, but I recently put Redline in my R380 and really couldn't believe how noticeable the difference was. I thought everyone was just exaggerating, but definitely not.

However, Kenneth has the auto... So that information is useless :)
 
#11 ·
If you are switching to a fully synthetic consider mixing it half-half with something like GTX or similar for the first two changes and do them closer together. What happens is the synthetic (I use Mobil 1) will de-gunk a bunch of things like lifters etc and separate crud from places it is currently lodged and accumulating and this can clog up oil feed ports etc and by doing it more gradually you slow the initial cleaning action and reduce the risk of this, and because the mineral oil is cheaper it doesn't hurt as much to say do a change at 2000mi after switching.
 
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