Ashcroft part time 4 wheel drive conversion - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old June 8th, 2013, 09:10 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddymow View Post
Interesting, handles different how? Cornering?
From a handling perspective, there is a very poor weight distribution. It's basically the equivalent of putting skinny tires on the back of a 911 and going out in the rain. Nobody on this board pushes a Land Rover hard enough on the road in favorable conditions to notice the difference btw. rear wheel and full time 4.. what people are taking about is what happens when it breaks loose in adverse conditions. (which will happen A LOT easier). I drove mine in RWD for an entire winter and let me tell you that you better be Parnelli f'in Jones on that steering wheel when it oversteers to avoid making love to a tree. You will get into a tank slapper very easy in RWD.

Driving down a country road in the middle of summer going the speed limit... you will notice zero difference but when it steps out, it's very hard to control.
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  #22  
Old June 8th, 2013, 09:11 PM
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I ran my series with and without locking hubs. No noticeable difference in economy. Leaked less without the freewheeling hubs though and was easier to service. Not a fan of locking hubs. I always hated having to get out to lock them.
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  #23  
Old June 8th, 2013, 09:41 PM
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Raub A.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
From a handling perspective, there is a very poor weight distribution. It's basically the equivalent of putting skinny tires on the back of a 911 and going out in the rain. Nobody on this board pushes a Land Rover hard enough on the road in favorable conditions to notice the difference btw. rear wheel and full time 4.. what people are taking about is what happens when it breaks loose in adverse conditions. (which will happen A LOT easier). I drove mine in RWD for an entire winter and let me tell you that you better be Parnelli f'in Jones on that steering wheel when it oversteers to avoid making love to a tree. You will get into a tank slapper very easy in RWD.

Driving down a country road in the middle of summer going the speed limit... you will notice zero difference but when it steps out, it's very hard to control.
The op and I live in Central Florida, very limited snow, no hills and all roads have long ago been paved. How bad can it be?
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  #24  
Old June 8th, 2013, 09:47 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Good feedback everyone. I think you have convinced me it's not worth it

Raub, it still rains in FL!
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  #25  
Old June 9th, 2013, 08:35 AM
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My .02. Don't waste funds on a part time conversion, spend them on a 200tdi conversion. What has been said above is very true. Pull your front drive shaft and lock your center diff and drive it and you will find the truck handles squirelly. I have destroyed some front prop shafts and had to drive in 2 wheel for a couple days and the truck has scary understeer without drive to the front wheels, banked on ramps can be harmful to your sphincter.
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  #26  
Old June 9th, 2013, 09:32 AM
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Steve Maietta
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I think the MPG of these trucks is basically set by the engine you have, how you drive it, and aerodynamics.

You cant really change aerodynamics unless you want your truck in the "Land Rovers that suck" thread.. You can drive it more sensibly which might get your point or three.. You can change the engine which could get you .. I dunno.. 10 extra MPG?


The kit is basically useless for MPG increase, despite the marketing. And apparently 2wd is unsafe in Defenders.. So all your left with is that it "upgrades a weak link in the transfercase" Which I never really heard of.

VERDICT:
Sell the kit on Ebay and get a set of boosts. Or a bikini top for the summer. Or titanium limb risers. Or a new tent that doesnt smell like dogshit so you might be able to convince your SO to come along on an adventure.. Or a stainless propane camping grill so you can cook in style for decades. Or some pornos. Or

allright Im done..
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  #27  
Old June 9th, 2013, 09:35 AM
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For better MPG, remove your roof and fold down the windscreen.
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  #28  
Old June 9th, 2013, 09:52 AM
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Abraham Bell
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Ok I see all of your points. Thanks for the input.
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  #29  
Old June 9th, 2013, 12:09 PM
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Adam
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They do handle very differently even on dry roads!

Reason being, as torque is transmitted through the drivetrain to the ground, the front and rear suspension react and exert forces back through the chassis. Roll center/anti squat etc.

The chassis and suspension is very neutral when these forces are acting on the vehicle from an even torque split front to rear.

When you are only driving the rear axle, 100% of the torque goes through the rear suspension and the forces that the rear suspension transmit back through the chassis increase dramatically. This really changes the character of the vehicle!
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  #30  
Old June 9th, 2013, 01:36 PM
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Dave Lucas
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How about front wheel drive? Same issue?
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  #31  
Old June 9th, 2013, 02:26 PM
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Adam
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Same issue but different dynamics... I have driven one this way as well. Not as pronounced of a change in chassis attitude (the front suspension has a much higher roll resistance and the radius arm design mitigates the torque transfer to the chassis) but you will feel a difference.
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  #32  
Old June 9th, 2013, 02:38 PM
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Robert Dassler
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I believe that Land Rover built a factory version of the LT230 with part time 4wd. I'm pretty sure that it was a 13D prefix, A suffix. I have never seen one in person, but it is listed on the old microfiche parts catalogs I have. I assume that there is a reason it's not still in production.
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  #33  
Old June 9th, 2013, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadsiderob View Post
I believe that Land Rover built a factory version of the LT230 with part time 4wd. I'm pretty sure that it was a 13D prefix, A suffix. I have never seen one in person, but it is listed on the old microfiche parts catalogs I have. I assume that there is a reason it's not still in production.
They did. I saw one on eBay. Never in person. It was not popular and was only on very early 4 cylinder 110s. I think it was just easier to standardize the full time unit. Back in the early to mid 80s, FWHs to save fuel costs were all the rage. My use for it is to take out the weak link center diff in the LT230. That is the only thing I have ever seen break on them although I am sure you can break other stuff.
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  #34  
Old June 9th, 2013, 04:58 PM
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Adam
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Buy the ashcroft limited slip center diff. I would love to drive a Rover with one of these in the snow.
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  #35  
Old June 9th, 2013, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post

They did. I saw one on eBay. Never in person. It was not popular and was only on very early 4 cylinder 110s. I think it was just easier to standardize the full time unit. Back in the early to mid 80s, FWHs to save fuel costs were all the rage. My use for it is to take out the weak link center diff in the LT230. That is the only thing I have ever seen break on them although I am sure you can break other stuff.
This 1984 110 County of mine has a factory part time t-case with fairly front locking hubs. This one has 2.5na and lt77 tranny. At stock height and stock size wheels and tires it handles fine. Much better than a 90 with only the rear shaft engaged.

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  #36  
Old June 10th, 2013, 12:47 AM
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Drool... Looks gorgeous!
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  #37  
Old June 10th, 2013, 05:40 PM
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Mike Hammond
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I had a 88" V8 coil sprung hybrib with a series transmission and defender axles - part time 4x4 and hubs just like that. Drove fine on the road, very light - 1500kg - got exciting at full throttle. MPG depended totally on driving style not whether the hubs were locked.
I found the front prop suffered - the slip joint wore quickly, possibly due to jiggling up and down without rotating. There's alsso the thought that the top swivel bush won't get properly splash lubricated whilst driving due to the CV and 1/2 shafts not rotating. Finally ditched the hubs because one side would unlock in deep ruts due to the rut side rubbing on the hub and disengage it leading to 4x2 just when it wasn't needed. Puzzled me for a while, thought I'd forgot to engage it.
Just my 2p worth
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  #38  
Old June 10th, 2013, 06:12 PM
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Mike Simpson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Don't waste funds on a part time conversion, spend them on a 200tdi conversion.
Excellent advice. The 200tdi gets much better fuel economy than the 12j. I don't know how much of that is because it is direct injection and how much is because the extra power allows you to run a higher ratio in the transfer case, but I went from 22 mpg to 28 mpg when I did my swap.

Btw, I have to pull my front driveshaft every year to get my emissions test done. I haven't noticed much difference in handling, but I'm driving on dry surfaces. I do notice more play in the drivetrain if I'm running in 2wd.
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  #39  
Old June 10th, 2013, 06:45 PM
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...but I went from 22 mpg to 28 mpg when I did my swap.
I have not seen a huge change. It is hard to compare though as I drive faster with the TDI.

19 to 24 USmpg in the 2.5 NA and 19 to 26 in the 200TDI. I'd say if I drove the same speed it would give a 10% improvement.
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  #40  
Old June 10th, 2013, 06:54 PM
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I have not seen a huge change. It is hard to compare though as I drive faster with the TDI.

19 to 24 USmpg in the 2.5 NA and 19 to 26 in the 200TDI. I'd say if I drove the same speed it would give a 10% improvement.
Did you change transfer case ratios? I went from 1.6 to 1.2. That might account for most of the mileage improvement I experienced. But the 12j wasn't going to pull the 1.2 transfer case. Needless to say I'm also going faster.
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