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  #1  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 03:37 PM
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Joshua
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ARB Removal Help

I'm removing my front ARB Bumper. I started by removing the lights to access everything more easily. I then got the 2 large cross bolts out of the sides of the frame horns last night using I think a 17mm socket. That was easy. There are still 4 upper bolts going down through the ARB and frame horn but I'm not sure there's enough room cut out along the sides of the frame to access the nuts that are in the inside. I was going to see if I could find some thin-walled wrenches tonight that may be able to slip in this space, but just wondering if y'all have other advice.

In the last pic you can see the hole near the bottom from where I removed the cross bolt that held both the steering guard and ARB. Directly to the left/above that, there's the access hole where the two (per side) top-mounted nuts are that I'm trying to access that are giving me issues. Tight quarters!!
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  #2  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 03:41 PM
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My nuts were captive (lol) on a plate. I just zipped the downward facing bolts out and the plate fell into the frame horn. bumper slid off
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  #3  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 03:47 PM
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Ian Gregory
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Josh,

I don't know an easy way to do this it just SUCKS ASS to do. 1st time I took mine off it took me forever. You have to just try and get a wrench on them and hope you can then turn the bolt at the top while you hold the nut. If you can’t (mine wouldn’t) then it’s one of those sucky 1/16th of a turn at a time of the nut jobs that you hope never to have to do again.

You have to do one to make enough room to get to the other.

After the 1st time I took mine off I cut off the inner frame tabs that you can see in your picture and anti-seized the heck out of new bolts when I put them back in. It was a lot easier the next time.

Sorry for the bad news.

Ian
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  #4  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 03:54 PM
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Impact gun and a couple of extensions with swivels in between.
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  #5  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:05 PM
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it should be captive..but if not the an open end wrench will work.. make sure to spray it up
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  #6  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:09 PM
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I stuck my finger in there though, and the nut was moving while I had the socket wrench going on it up top.
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Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMSLongLake View Post
Impact gun and a couple of extensions with swivels in between.
This. Hold the bottom and hit the top with an impact gun. Then buy the correct captive nuts and bracket things to hold them and pack them with anti-sieze and spray with waxoyl clear when done.
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Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:11 PM
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I have taken off 2 factory bumpers and both had the square plate with the nuts in them thing there so you dont need to put a wrench on them if you are sure they put nuts on them you will need to get a wrench in there but I think that would be really tough to put those nuts on there in the first place so I have my fingers crossed that it is the square plate
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  #9  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
In the last pic you can see the hole near the bottom from where I removed the cross bolt that held both the steering guard and ARB. Directly to the left/above that, there's the access hole where the two (per side) top-mounted nuts are that I'm trying to access that are giving me issues. Tight quarters!!
Are you sure you have individual nuts? OEM was a single tapped plate for both vertical bolts per side. This plate will not turn when removing the vertical bolts. Your mileage will vary if this was replaced by individual nuts.
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  #10  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:17 PM
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He has an ARB. If he's unlucky then it looks like mine (pic). No captive nuts.

Its really tricky due to trying to wrap your arms around the bumper to run an impact from above and hold the wrench that you can barely get onto the nut at the same time because of the frame section.

This job SUCKS, just sucks less after you modify it.

2nd pic is the frame mod that makes it easier next time.....

Open wrench only works if you're lucky enough that the nut is in the correct place that it will fit on the 1st time. The access is so small that if it won't then you have to use a box wrench.
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  #11  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:25 PM
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Ian that pic helps a lot to visualize the things I want to beat with a hammer right now. I thought that plate sticking out in the middle in your first pic may have captive nuts on the bottom and I was just being crazy, but you just confirmed for me I'm not crazy! The grill comes off easily, so I'll probably be removing that next so that I don't rub up against it (anymore) while I do this.
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  #12  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:28 PM
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Bet some of your wrenches don't even fit through the hole do they? I had to go buy a different set of box wrences to get one that I could even get in there. Couldn't use a wratcheting one as they are too big.

1st time I Did this I think it took me something like 4 hours with plenty of stops so go beat the crap out of something and chill out.

If you have a grinder or a cut off wheel you can cut off that frame section with the bumper on if you're careful. You can then get an open ended onto the nearest bolt easily and once that one is out the other is easier to get to as well.
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  #13  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:39 PM
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Yeah my plan has been to work from the outside in, but I can't get an open ended wrench in there that's both large enough to fit the 17mm nut or so. It has to fit though, considering THE BUMPER IS ON THERE in the first place. Just figured since there are a ton of ARBs on these that there might be plenty of opinions or tricks on this.

The impact gun may be good, but the extensions, etc. don't help, since I can't get a socket in the frame horn section I need to get to in the first place. Needs to be an open ended wrench.

I'm going to see if I can find some thing-walled wrenches that may be able to fit in there, although they probably don't have much strength to them, if they even exist.
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  #14  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:39 PM
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I can have my Rockware off in like 15 minutes
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  #15  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:40 PM
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That's what is replacing it.
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  #16  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:40 PM
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Chinese wrench+grinder=thinwall wrench
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  #17  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:41 PM
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I like your thinking.
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  #18  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:46 PM
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Just quench them often as you're grinding on them or they'll be as strong as Silly Putty. Or after grinding heat them up to a real dull red (no where near cherry) and quench them in some old oil...ought to harden them back up...too hot and they'll shatter like glass.
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  #19  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:47 PM
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as said above the only thing that sucks worse than removing those two nuts is installing them in the first place. Pretty sure I have pledged all my worldly belongings to a number of different dieties installng arb bumpers on Defenders. Install involves magnets on a stick etc. Like Ian said the only way to do it is to get a wrench in there that can hold the nut and hope for the best. I stripped the shoulders off of one once and had to cut the bolt/nut off with an air powered hacksaw. Fun ! This job is right up there with Disco bellhousing bolts.
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  #20  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:49 PM
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You sure they are 17mm Josh? They are supposed to be 19s (M12).
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