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  #21  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:51 PM
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This is the reason I cut my frame and did away with the front jack points.
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  #22  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 05:00 PM
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From my best guess on sticking my finger in there, this is how the bolt and nut are.
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  #23  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
From my best guess on sticking my finger in there, this is how the bolt and nut are.
yep you got it
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  #24  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 05:05 PM
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Cut off the frame tab Josh. Its easy to get an open ended on it from the side then.
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  #25  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 10:31 PM
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Josh - not sure this helps, and it may be obvious, but when I removed my front bumper (no captive nuts, like you) I had to sneak an open end wrench through that opening and found that it was easier to get the opposing nut. So looking at the bumper I would go in through the opening on the left to get the nut on the right and vice versa. It was a pain but worked.
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  #26  
Old June 24th, 2012, 09:17 PM
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So, Dan and I tackled this today - it was DEFINITELY a two man job to remove the ARB to switch on over to the RockWare bumper.

Here we're my steps for removing the ARB bumper.

1. Remove Hella lights
2. Remove heritage grill
3. Remove horizontal frame bolts that Go through the frame horns and secure the steering guard.
4. Remove winch fairlead bolts
5. Remove winch line hook and run line through the back of the fairlead
6. Remove license plate

Up to this point, everything went smoothly. Now came the fun part. Once Dan showed up we got to work on the vertical 17mm grade 8 vertical bolts I started this thread trying to figure out how to remove.
Dan went under the truck and tried to fit his 17mm wrench on one of the nuts - that wouldn't fit. We then PB Blasted all of the vertical bolts and got to work. With Dan under the truck he tried securing a flat head screwdriver up against a flat side of one of the nuts inside the frame while I used a 17mm socket wrench up top. This worked well but slow, and we removed the passenger-most side bolt/nut first without too much trouble. Then we attempted the central vertical bolt on the passenger side using the same screwdriver and socket but this side was not cooperative.
We finally decided to cut the frame tabs that everyone above had said to cut in the first place. I took the grinder and put the cutting wheel on and got to it (Dan you should have gotten a photo of me doing this! ) I did the tabs on only the outside of each frame horn on the driver and passenger sides and from here progress rolled along pretty quickly. On the driver side I was under the truck while Dan was up top using the socket.

7. Removed vertical frame bolts
8. Remove wire lead from battery to solenoid box
9. Remove remaining winch bolts
10. Remove winch
11. Remove bumper
12 OH CRAP THE TURN SIGNALS ARE STILL CONNECTED
13. Remove bumper turn signals.
14. Remove bumper.
15. Get all of the nuts that fell inside the frame horn out with a magnet. Also get some little brackets out that was in each frame horn

16. Get RockWare on
17. Put old vertical bolts in (to be replaced)
18. Reconnect winch battery cable
19. Realize that free spool and engage knob canister needs to be rotated as it hits the bumper
20. Realize driver side Hella light wire is too short to reach the front of the bumper.
21. Replace winch bolts
22. Realize I need a Warn bracket that will secure the solenoid/remote box if I decide not to relocate it.
23. Bask in glory that Dan and I are finished - sort of.

24. Thanks again for the help on the bumper, Dan!
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  #27  
Old June 24th, 2012, 09:31 PM
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Congrats!!

Now imagine if you had to put the damn thing back on!?!?
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  #28  
Old June 24th, 2012, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipgregory View Post
Congrats!!

Now imagine if you had to put the damn thing back on!?!?
Yeah seriously! But once those tabs were off it really did go a lot faster. The funny thing is that the RockWare requires about 1/4 of the bolts than the ARB did - maybe it just seemed that way because the fairlead was already on the RockWare.

Next plan is to:

1. Take the RockWare bumper back off, get it down to bare metal, and repaint it as I'm not used to seeing any rust on the truck and I've heard it's contagious.
2. POR 15 the frame where I made the cuts. I already cut the tabs down a bit more when there was no bumper on, to make the cuts flush.
3. Buy bracket from Warn to mount solenoid box to winch (it used to mount right up to the ARB.
4. Buy 4 new bolts to replace the vertical bolts in grade 8 or 10
5. Extend the wire for the driver side Hella on the bumper so that it can mount back up
6. Warn solenoid relocation kit - maybe
7. On the winch, spin the canister around a little to be able to turn the knob from free spool to engage without hitting the bumper
8. Tape up turn signals with electrical tape, where the signals for the ARB bumper had been spliced in.
9. Buy license plate bracket as there isn't one on the RockWare as far as I can tell
10. Open a beer using the bottle opener on the bumper

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  #29  
Old June 24th, 2012, 10:50 PM
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The only way to deal with this without swearing a blue streak is to remove the frame extension that encapsulates the nut plate (it doesn't do anything anyway). Once that's gone it's a cinch.
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  #30  
Old June 25th, 2012, 10:00 AM
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I was about to say - call Dan lol
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  #31  
Old June 25th, 2012, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
I was about to say - call Dan lol
Yeah I felt like a schmuck when he was able to get his bumper off in under an hour (alone) and I was stuck on the frame horn bolts. He texted me a pic of his removed like "what are you doing wrong? ." I forgot he hasn't been driving the D90 so he ended up just removing his bumper and coming out to my garage - glad he did as we ended up needing the electricity, and because of the size of the ARB and the way the bolts were not wanting to budge, a two-man crew was ideal in the end. It still took probably 3 hours or so I think.

The bolts I was having issues with are much easier to see and get to with the RockWare that's for sure!
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  #32  
Old June 25th, 2012, 11:29 AM
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If the side of the frame horns is cuts its a simple one man job at around an hour if you have a winch fitted.

Took me 2 hours to drive 5 miles to Hoboken because of the Gay Pride parade in Manhattan. Could have done 2 bumpers in that time!
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  #33  
Old June 25th, 2012, 02:11 PM
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I just ordered the Warn winch solenoid bracket - part 26368 for a Warn XD9000 - to be able to mount the solenoid and remote box to the carrier bolts (the rods that run across the drum above the winch line) since the RockWare mounts feet down and the ARB was feet forward. I think it was $12 shipped.

http://warn.iwebcat.com/_Members/loo...PFlag=&hdnWN=1&
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  #34  
Old June 25th, 2012, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
From my best guess on sticking my finger in there, this is how the bolt and nut are.
Anyone know what I should replace these bolts with? I need to put in an order with McMaster Carr but I forgot to bring one back with me - not sure I'd know what size they were/are by looking at it anyway. I'd like grade 8-10 17mm for the bolts but how do I know the length? I guess I should probably replace the horizontal bolts that go through the frame and the steering guard too.

I also need to replace basically all of the little screws that secure the turn signals up front. Not a big order, but an order.
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  #35  
Old June 25th, 2012, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Next plan is to:

1. Take the RockWare bumper back off, get it down to bare metal, and repaint it as I'm not used to seeing any rust on the truck and I've heard it's contagious.
2. POR 15 the frame where I made the cuts. I already cut the tabs down a bit more when there was no bumper on, to make the cuts flush.
3. Open a beer using the bottle opener on the bumper

Bring the truck by my house. We can take the rockware off and you can use my factory bumper whilst it is getting blasted and painted... Bring your own beer.
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  #36  
Old June 25th, 2012, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
Bring the truck by my house. We can take the rockware off and you can use my factory bumper whilst it is getting blasted and painted... Bring your own beer.
Does this mean you already drank the 3 bottles of Tequila I brought the last time?!
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  #37  
Old June 25th, 2012, 03:06 PM
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Yep.

Anyways there is a sand blaster guy right near my work. He is cheap/fair...
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  #38  
Old June 25th, 2012, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
You can get an sae bolt, no reason to be metric.
I'm trying to keep the truck as stock as possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
also, you could remote mount the solenoid under the hood, or behind the headlight. Ive also seen the controller plug wired to the td5 vent area next to the light. Just some ideas.

-Jeff
That may be the long-term plan, but for now I just want to get it secured on there so that I'm not driving around with a loose solenoid/remote pack.
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  #39  
Old June 25th, 2012, 03:12 PM
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I you come by you can spray some Waxoyl in the frame while you are at it...
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  #40  
Old June 25th, 2012, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Huh? You realize that ARB and Rockware arent stock, but the bolts that mount them need to be? (Boosts aren't 'stock' either)

- Jeff
Yeah just get any bolt that fits. SAE is actually better cause if you need a nut if one fell off you can get one anywhere. Also high grade is easy to find in SAE.

Stock? what the...
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