ARB Headlight Wiring Harness - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 1st, 2008, 11:18 AM
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Jeff
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ARB Headlight Wiring Harness

The directions are simple, but I am just want to make sure I'm doing it right. Next to the relay block, there are a few extra connectors, that appear to go unused.

Has anyone installed this? Do you not do anything with these extra connectors?

Thank you!
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  #2  
Old March 1st, 2008, 11:30 AM
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David Marchand
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I installed one. I assumed the extra connectors were for extra lights. But I never bothered to look into it.
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  #3  
Old March 1st, 2008, 03:25 PM
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Mike Hansen
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The Extra Connectors are for a Toyota Application. Just forget they are there.

What did you upgrade to?
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  #4  
Old March 1st, 2008, 07:29 PM
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Jeff
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I have the e code headlights in the 1989 RRC, and they are still really weak. I am guessing this has to do with the factory wiring, as well as the anemic 80 amp alternator. I have an ok sound system with a sub and an amp and I think that draws a good bit of power. So, I just put in a 140 amp alternator and soon this wiring harness. I think then the e codes will be able to work their magic.

Thank you for confirming that those extra connectors are not needed. That is what it said in the directions, but I just wanted to be sure.

One more thing, the directions say to plug this harness into the factory harness. However, where exactly do you plug it in? It seems to me like there should be two plugs to plug in, one for each headlight, but there is only one plug to plug in. Do I just plug that into one of the sides of the factory harness? This is what I am assuming, and I would use the passenger side because it is closer to the battery and where I want to route the wiring.

Cheers
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  #5  
Old March 1st, 2008, 10:41 PM
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Mike Hansen
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You only need to plug into ONE headlight plugs. The closeset will work. Your switch and factory harness only has to handle low amperage now so it doesn't really matter.
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  #6  
Old February 24th, 2009, 03:47 PM
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Robert Lynch
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does this harness have relays built in?
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  #7  
Old February 24th, 2009, 04:07 PM
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Jeff
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yes, there are 3 relays.

It made a noticeable difference in my light output, although I did upgrade to a better alternator at the same time. Well worth the money in my opinion
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  #8  
Old February 25th, 2009, 12:14 AM
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Robert Lynch
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seems like a good upgrade since i have H4's sitting around and high watt bulbs. ordered one from EE (and a convex mirror)

Truely Plug and play? - any issues with wiring it up to the battery, etc?
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  #9  
Old February 27th, 2009, 11:20 PM
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Robert Lynch
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question on this before i install tomorrow

the battery connectors - will they reach the battery or do they need to be extended? and where di you route the +/- for the battery connection.

Thanks

fyi...porsche H4's will not work since they are 2 peice lights (reflector and lens) i am assuming at this point. and the E code H4's are single peice.
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  #10  
Old March 1st, 2009, 02:32 AM
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Robert Lynch
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installed - will post pictures when i down load them.
Notes...
1) tapped the engine cmpt fuse box for power - no extension of wires needed - you have align the wires carefully and be mindful of the clips that secure the fuse box to the chassis.
2) to secure the relays you should drop them below the hood opening - with the stock wiring you have to mount them in front of the clutch M/C which means you need to fab a bracket to do this.
3) the relays all need to be screwed in place - basically a T bracket and use the supplied fender bolt (no drilling to mount the relays) it cannot be straight down as well as it will need to be angled 20 degrees to clear the below bracket.

other than that its pretty easy.

Future.... I am going to run an engine power distribution block from the battery to handle this and the future lighting upgrades, and compressor (hella) and make it easier to wire this stuff. Also an AL panel to mount all the relays on in a central place which can them be water proofed.
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  #11  
Old March 2nd, 2009, 10:29 AM
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I have a Jacobs Electronics Harness on my Defender. One of the first things that went on it back in '97 when I bought her. It was more specific (no extra plugs) and used two relays. The wiring gauge looks a little heavier as well, but it could just be my bad memory. I don't think Jacobs offers these kits anymore though.

Anyway, I tied the power and ground leads directly into the Alternator output stud and ground to the case. Made it nice and tidy, and it makes a huge difference int eh performance of the headlamps (I run E-Code Hella's with 80/100 H4's). Highly recommended not only to protect the fragile factory circuit, but also for the performance increases!
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  #12  
Old March 2nd, 2009, 11:16 AM
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Robert Lynch
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how did everyone route the wiring over or under the radiator?
mine is on top currently but i am not happy with that location - under presets issues with hot lines, etc.
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  #13  
Old March 7th, 2009, 03:15 AM
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Robert Lynch
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FYi... great upgrade for the lights - i'll prob by another and do the 964 with it as well since the kit is not really vehicle specific.
the Crap Sylvania seal beams were better but the Hella E code H4's are really nice (Osram 80/100 bulbs).

Seal the Plug that you are not using and zip tie it up and out of the way (waterproof'd)
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  #14  
Old March 8th, 2009, 07:56 PM
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I went with the upgraded wiring harness and PIAA Superwhites in Hella H4 ligths and it was a nice step up from stock but......

I have now done an HID conversion kit purchased from Group5 motorsports in San Diego. $200 for high and low beam unit. They bulbs fit my hella H4 lamps and DAMN are those things bright.
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  #15  
Old November 12th, 2010, 10:45 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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For those who installed the ARB Headlight harness upgrade. Where did you end up mounting the relays? Under the hood or in the battery box underneath the seat? I plan to plug it into the front left headlight connector, run it along the left side (inside wing) and down underneath chassis up into the battery box? It does hook up to the battery box, right? Seems like others have used engine fuse or alternator?
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  #16  
Old November 13th, 2010, 02:26 AM
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I stripped and re-made the loom on my ARB harness (for a D90), and fitted the relays in the battery box (Along with all my other relays) and ran the headlight section of the loom along the factory positions (i.e. routed across the bulkhead then along each wing)

The "trigger" bit of the loom... the one that plugs into an old headlight plug, i cut this off and hard wired it into the existing headlight loom, just for neatness.

Easy to make though, if you wanted to copy it.

get 3 relays, wire one of them to power both headlights on dipped/low beam.

the other 2 relays do each headlight individually on main beam.

the "trigger" wire, from the old headlight fitting, the dipped beam will energise the single relay, the main beam will trigger the 2 relays.

I would modify mine though, so that there are 4 fuses instead of just the one. where the feeds come out of the relays and go up to the headlights, i'd split the wires there and fit a fuse for each light feed (for the dipped beam, coming from the one relay, you;d have to run 2 cables so you can fuse each one, as opposed to splitting the cable into a Y up near the bulkhead somehere)

That way, you don't lose all of your lighting if just one fuse blows.

a definate worthwhile convesion though... it made my headlights nice and "white" instead of a crappy lucas yellow!
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  #17  
Old November 13th, 2010, 09:44 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Thanks Jim!

Still more questions. I'm an electrical novice so keep that in mind. Explain it like you would to a 5 year old.

I didn't install it today because as you said, the ARB harness needs modification if you want it wired to the battery under the drivers seat. There are two options here. Cut a gigantic hole in the seat box so that you can pull the relays through and mount them inside. I prefer not to do this so I'd rather make an extension to the battery wires on the ARB harness and mount the relays in the engine compartment. Is this a good way to go? How has everyone else installed this? Looks like Robert got power from the engine compartment fusebox instead of battery. Is there a downside to doing it that way?

The extra connectors coming out of the relays are for a Toyota. What are the two headlight plugs (male and female) coming out of the middle of the harness for? Auxiliary lights?

I have two Hella Black Magic's that currently are wired to the high beams. The wire goes to the steering column lever for the lights I think. How would I wire these into the ARB harness so that they go through the ARB harness and not the stock harness?
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  #18  
Old November 14th, 2010, 06:52 AM
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Jamie Austin
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You could always just cut through the main ARB loom (a foot or 2 away from the relays), then feed it through one of the rubber cable glands in the battery box, then carefully solder the cables back together again, heat shrink the lot back together again... job jobbed, and no hacking of the battery box needed.
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  #19  
Old November 14th, 2010, 11:42 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Thanks. Seems like either way I need to cut the cable (to feed through or to extend). What is the best location for the relays in a D90? The instructions recommend engine bay but doesn't it get too hot there for the relays? I was planning on battery compartment but fear it will be crowded as I'm about to install a dual battery kit with switcher and auxiliary fuse panel.
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  #20  
Old November 15th, 2010, 02:43 AM
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Jamie Austin
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I just fitted mine in the battery box as a) that's where i fitted other relays, b) that's where the battery is, so nice and easy to get a power feed to the loom, and c) it's fairly damp proof (well, compared to the engine bay it is anyway)
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