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  #21  
Old May 13th, 2004, 11:36 PM
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I 've had good luck with stop leak in the power steering fluid. I have mobile one in my new T-case for over 6 months without any leaks. what about the Lucas oil treatment? I've heard allot of good things about it, I'm thinking of trying some in the trans.
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  #22  
Old May 14th, 2004, 04:56 AM
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And semi-synthetic might be a good compromise...

It's almost a grand to have the tbox pulled and all re-sealed. Unless I do it, which I don't want to.
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  #23  
Old May 16th, 2004, 12:15 AM
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just learn to top it up!

I am blessed with some very low oil leaking rovers. All on synthetic now except for the new LWB. I ran Rotella 5w 40 synthetic because it was cheap but I prefer the 0w 40 mobil one or 5w 40 penzoil--anything Merc Benz spec as the best. Full synthetic base stock and looking it and feeling it they are more slippery and clearer (if that really means anything!). I ran 15w 50 mobil one once and the engine seems to be slower to me but it was fine and caused no problems otherwise.

Ron
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  #24  
Old May 16th, 2004, 01:04 AM
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"anyone using Mobil1 15W50 ?"

I am, as of this afternoon. I did my oil lines also, if anyone's interested...

SC
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  #25  
Old May 16th, 2004, 11:28 AM
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When I bought my D90 it was very clean underneath as far as oil leaks, never dropped oil in my garage. I switched to synthetic oils in diffs, t-case, trans, and engine and they all began to leak except the diffs.

The leaks were very minor, more like seeping but I have switched back to non-synthetic. I think if you change oils often there is not that much to to be gained with synthetic oils.

All of this is just opinion, no stats to prove my points.
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  #26  
Old May 16th, 2004, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
[i] I think if you change oils often there is not that much to to be gained with synthetic oils. [/B]

If it were only that simple. Yes, I always change my oils and often.

Again, the main benefits I seek from synthetic are better startups and protection from catastrophic failure - e.g. overheating, oil pressure loss.

You cannot match these from ANY non-sysnthetic blend.


BTW, I feel like the truck's slower since changing a few weks ago. Looks like I'll go back to 10W30.
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  #27  
Old May 16th, 2004, 02:29 PM
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In my experience the cars that get driven the most leak the most. I had a 1988 RR that sat up on blocks for a few years prior to my buying it. Changed the oil, hoses belts etc. and it never dropped a bit. My 1969 88" was the same, sat forever prior to my purchase and it never dripped an ounce. Now my 1994 Disco and the 130 act like real Land Rovers, especialy the Disco. I just keep an eye on the levels and keep them topped up. No big deal.
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  #28  
Old May 17th, 2004, 12:15 AM
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Hey Art, never had a vehicle over heat or to loose oil pressure nor to have a catastrophic failure due to using natural lubricants.

How did those guys ever run 200 mph plus in a quarter mile before synthetics came along. Yes they changed out engines pretty often but they still do that with synthetics.

I think the synthetics are slicker than naturals but how slick do they need to be.

I will take my chances, although very small, and not have to live with the leaking gaskets and seals.

Oh, and if you can tell your truck is slower or faster with different oils you've been watching too many infomercials.
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  #29  
Old May 17th, 2004, 09:06 AM
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Art,

FWIW - Lappens was the only store in the area that I could find synthetic 5w/40 or 10w/40 (Castrol). The 40 weight gives you a little more high temp protection for the summer.

Eric
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  #30  
Old October 21st, 2006, 03:41 AM
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Syntec 5w-50

Has anyone tried running SYNTEC 5W-50 in there vehicle?? My vehicle spends a fair bit of time in the mountains during winter so I was thinking the 5W would be good for that and the 50 would be good for the few hot months we have here in OR.


What do you all think??
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  #31  
Old October 22nd, 2006, 12:11 PM
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I ither run 10/40 Amsoil synthetic, or Castrol 10/40 syntec year round. The V8 I believe is designed to run with a slightly heavier weight oil. Personaly 5W would be too thin IMO.
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  #32  
Old October 22nd, 2006, 12:37 PM
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From what I remember in engines class in college.....

Just doing the drain of the regular and switching to syn is not enough. Matter of fact, it is advised to do another oil change pretty quick after the first switch (1000 mi or so). the 'more/new leaks' comes from the syn doing its job. By changing out the seals, you get all of the grime out that was plugging one of the small holes (otherwise the syn will do it for you). I too had the same 'extra leaks' issue when I switch to syn on my Disco.....that was easily fixed with a 2.8L..... my $0.02
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  #33  
Old October 24th, 2006, 09:25 PM
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Still lost

This is a really good thread, however, I still havent found a medium answer. It seems the group goes one way or the other. Winter is coming up so I want thicker right?(15w) and Thinner in the summer? (10w) I have 4.0 v8... And How about changing the seals (cost?) can I do that just following the manual? sorry for the newbism...
-J
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  #34  
Old October 24th, 2006, 11:27 PM
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The Rover V8 when older can be succeptible to failure from dino oil sludge, and running too heavy a weight oil such as 20W- whatever, I believe runs a higher risk. The V8 also sems sluggish on start up, and performance with higher weight oils, unlike the old series 4cyl which are robust and like to run on 20/50.
In a warm climate, a higher viscosity of 40 or 50 is probably better for the V8. In the winter a lower viscosity is adequate.

As an all arounder without going bonkers on the oil subject, I personaly resorted to 10/40 which I believe is a good compromise/performance oil weight for the V8. More importantly is regular oil/filter changes, in my case every 3K miles
at most, with 74K miles on my engine. Dino vs Synthetic , is again a personal choice. I tend to believe that a switch to
synthetic on an older engine, will cause problems such as leaks, and sludge displacement (wall accumulated), which could cause oil port blockage. (which makes me think is it better to flush an old engine first, before switching to synthetic?)

I have run synthetic for the last 50K miles. No leaks.
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  #35  
Old October 25th, 2006, 07:00 AM
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We use Mobil 1 5-40 Truck/SUV in most older V8 Rovers. If the engine has sludge buildup we use Mobil 1 0-40. There is no need or benefit to a 15-50 oil in a Land Rover motor. Fuel economy will suffer a bit, and it may actually leak more, because the peak pressure will be higher.

There is no need for a winter/summer change of viscosity. Oils like the 5-40 and 0-40 are rated for year round use, being tested in Alaska and Death Valley under mor eextreme conditions than most Rovers see.

There is no question that the slipperier synthetic oil will leak a bit more, but its many benefits offset that issue.
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  #36  
Old October 25th, 2006, 10:05 AM
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Here is a link to what appears to be an informative page about oil

I found this site which appears to have good info. Check it out and see what you think.

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Th...%20Mile%20Myth
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  #37  
Old October 25th, 2006, 10:10 AM
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0w 40
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  #38  
Old October 25th, 2006, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robisonservice
We use Mobil 1 5-40 Truck/SUV in most older V8 Rovers...
John,

Are you also recommending this for the 300 Tdi?
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  #39  
Old October 25th, 2006, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artm
John,

Are you also recommending this for the 300 Tdi?
With respect to my earlier comments about Mobil 1 15-50 . . .

I don't think 1550 is a bad oil for a Rover V8, but I think 040 or 540 SUV is better. Those are newer products and they are not the same as 1550.

In recent years our recommendations have evolved in the face of improved products and greater knowledge.

That said, I do not have a recommendation for a 300TDI because we don't have enough of them in the USA fo rme to learn what works. I have a 2.5 diesel in my own D90, and I use 540 Mobil 1 diesel in it.
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  #40  
Old October 26th, 2006, 05:37 PM
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Barry O'Mahony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyborg
Has anyone tried running SYNTEC 5W-50 in there vehicle??
I used to. I switched to Mobil 1 based on recommendation from Mr. Robison and others.

In any case, I've used synthetic in both '97 LR's since new. No oil leaks currently (although they both leak some steering fluid that I haven't gotten around to fixing).

The Disco my wife uses had a main seal replaced once, but hey, it does have ~230K miles on it.
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