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  #1  
Old June 5th, 2007, 06:49 PM
cpk
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Corey K-nig
1993 NAS Defender 110
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Anyone installed new rotors?

One of my front brake rotors is about to bite the dust. Getting ready to get a couple of new ones along with new pads. Any advice on what else I should do while I'm under there? Anything that you suggest is 'a must' with new rotors. How about a "When I put new rotors on..." story. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old June 5th, 2007, 08:52 PM
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Tim Brown
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I havn't ever done mine on the 90, but on some other rigs, I have had problems when I have done pads and rotors together. "some" manufacturers will add a bit extra materials on the pads for when they are replaced on worn rotors, but when you have new rotors, and the larger pads, I have had them not fit back up (caliper won't go over rotor). just something to look out for.
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  #3  
Old June 5th, 2007, 10:02 PM
Eric Siepmann
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Eric W. Siepmann
1997 Defender 90 SW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpk
One of my front brake rotors is about to bite the dust. Getting ready to get a couple of new ones along with new pads. Any advice on what else I should do while I'm under there? Anything that you suggest is 'a must' with new rotors. How about a "When I put new rotors on..." story. Thanks.
Might as well put on extended stainless lines, check the calipers, and change the fluid.
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  #4  
Old June 5th, 2007, 10:27 PM
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Trevor K
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it was the first thing i did when i bought mine, i recommend buying the hub nut spanning tool to get off the the hubs easily without destroying the nut... also you need to buy the washer that you crush around the hub nut.
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  #5  
Old June 5th, 2007, 11:09 PM
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Kevin Buckley
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Put the hub on the wheel you take off (the studs into the holes)and stand on the wheel in order to get the torque neccesary to remove the rotor bolts. Clean the bolts off before retourqing them on correctly.
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  #6  
Old June 6th, 2007, 08:04 AM
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THen repack the bearings while you have them off and change the rear hub seal.
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  #7  
Old June 6th, 2007, 10:57 AM
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Gary Grace
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Thumbs up Brake Rotor replacement

Just did all my rotors.....not an easy job. Make sure you buy new hub gaskets and inner wheel bearing seals prior to takedown. But most important you will need the bearing nut socket(special tool) I think it is 2-3/16" You can not do the job without it. Make sure you have a "C" clamp to push the pistons back into the calipers. Have Fun!
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Old June 6th, 2007, 11:27 AM
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Be very careful when you take the caliper off, and you should be able to remove it without disconnecting any brake lines, but since it doesn't have a flex line between the caliper and spindle, be prepared to have to replace it and bleed the system if it cracks.

As everybody else mentioned, the new hub tool is a MUST, and get a new lockwasher and gaskets while you are already ordering stuff. If your sockets are all 6pt, then you will need to get a set of metric 12pt sockets as well, since the bolts holding the rotors to the hubs on mine have 12pt heads on them, as does the ones holding the caliper to the spindle.

If you have any concerns over the condition of the CV joint, it's just a couple more bolts to pull it and inspect it as well as change the fluid in the knuckle. Again, you would need more gaskets for that, but it's one of those "Might as well" things since you've already done 80% of the work to get there.

Since you have them all out anyways, inspect and repack the wheel bearings with fresh grease.

If you've done a 70's/80's US made 4x4, you'll find much of the Defender to be similar. The spots that are different are actually easier to work on, and can be done in the driveway. I always hated Jeep/Chevy/Ford front rotors, since they needed a hydraulic press to separate from the hubs. The Defender just needs a good breaker bar and rubber mallet.

-Hans
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  #9  
Old June 6th, 2007, 05:34 PM
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Barry O'Mahony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Guy
Then repack the bearings while you have them off and change the rear hub seal.
If they have been in there awhile, plan on just replacing them (and you won't have to clean the old ones!). Give them a good once-over. They are standard Timken bearings that you can get anywhere.
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  #10  
Old June 6th, 2007, 06:55 PM
cpk
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Corey K-nig
1993 NAS Defender 110
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Wow. Thanks for all the info. I would hate to get into it and find these things out and have to order more parts. Everyone's input is much appreciated. Alright... here I go
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  #11  
Old June 8th, 2007, 11:16 AM
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evilfij
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Napa has the front rotors for $15 a piece.
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  #12  
Old June 8th, 2007, 07:49 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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15 bucks? really? And it fits alright? I have this thing in my head that any land rover part at a common auto shop is bound to not work. If it did it would make owning a land rover easy.
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  #13  
Old September 1st, 2007, 10:38 AM
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Jeff
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I am getting all the stuff for a full brake job, just need to see if RN still has their caliper exchange thing. A Hummer mechanic is going to help me with it, probably over the winter. We are probably going to tear down the entire axel since I have an ARB third for it and I might go for the Longfields while I am all up in it.

Anyway, I got the hub nut tool from Britpart. Pardon my ignorance, but how do you use it. Do you stick a skinny breaker bar through those two holes? I was under the impression that it fit on a ratchet...guess not

thank you in advance
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  #14  
Old September 1st, 2007, 07:21 PM
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Hans Haase
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Yep, just put a rod-shaped thingie through the hole in the hub tool. I use a 3/8" extension usually. You don't have to go too tight at all.

Oh, one more thing when putting it all back together, when you get to the hub nut that the tool goes on. Snug it down, spin the wheel, snug it down, spin the wheel, repeat until it stops being loose. This sets the wheel bearings in properly. Otherwise, sometimes you might end up with loose bearings, which causes issues with the brakes.

-Hans
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