Anyone drill and tap out a broken stud in a NAS door top? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 21st, 2010, 02:57 PM
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Anyone drill and tap out a broken stud in a NAS door top?

I broke off the last 3/8th of an inch of the door stud in the door top. Don't ask why I was taking out the studs. Do I have to disassemble the door top? I cant see how I would get to it from below as it is way in up in there and I can't fit a tap. Any tips would be appreciated.

Ron (the man with one ROW limestone doortop on his NAS D90)
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  #2  
Old September 21st, 2010, 03:47 PM
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Planning to send your doors shortly if that helps
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Old September 21st, 2010, 04:19 PM
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Is there any for the stud left sticking out?
I would be careful drilling in that aluminum.


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Old September 21st, 2010, 07:38 PM
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drill it out with reverse drill bits.
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Old September 21st, 2010, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by D90user View Post
Is there any for the stud left sticking out?
I would be careful drilling in that aluminum.


No, the tip of the stud broke off in the door top.

Thanks Barry.

Those will be great, but I still want to fix this one.
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Old September 21st, 2010, 09:28 PM
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ron

just drill it out. If it is broken down at the bottom of the hole then you can use the hole to center the drill bit. if you bugger the threads, you can use a helicoil to repair them. maybe.

left hand drill bits can sometimes help get a stuck screw out too
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Old September 21st, 2010, 11:59 PM
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I can drill it out but I can't see it because it is 2in in the hole.

If I take off the channel and windows, I can maybe drill through the top.

Thoughts?
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  #8  
Old September 22nd, 2010, 12:31 PM
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Jason Herring
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I drilled out one of mine in my old doors, but it was broken off farther up than yours. It was a PITA. Eventually I replaced the doors as they were getting rusty on the bottoms anyway :-S
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Old September 22nd, 2010, 12:45 PM
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I'd make a drill guide bushing - which you can use because it sounds like it broke off up in the hole a ways (which is really weird) - Easiest would be to drill a hole in the center of a bolt the same thread as the stud (you have access to a lathe? Makes getting that hole centered easier). Drilling a steel bolt in aluminum, the drill wants to wander off into the soft aluminum and then everything is buggered.

Once you have a good center hole drilled, you can increase size more easily without as much fear of wandering off. As said, a reverse bit is nice as once you get the hole to a good size, the bolt remains will loosen and spin out with the reverse rotation.

few things I hate doing more.
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Old April 20th, 2013, 06:14 PM
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Broke the stud taking the door top off. Drilled into the broken stud and was able to get an easy out to bite. I've been spraying it with liquid wrench for a few days now and it won't budge to back the broken stud out.

At the point of drilling out the rest of the stud but need to know what I should use to tap it for a new stainless steel stud.

I need the thread size to tap it and drill bit size to drill it out with.
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  #11  
Old April 22nd, 2013, 11:09 PM
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Ran into this myself for my middle door tops I have. I didnt put any spray lube on it and it snapped about the surface. Figured I would just take it to a shop and have them drill the broken stud out and fill in with aluminum then drill and tap it.
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  #12  
Old May 4th, 2013, 08:19 AM
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Drilled it out, and tapped it. All back together but now they both leak. Replaced the rubber seal between the window and the door top. The previous rubber piece had a notch cut out and I am wondering if I need to do that to these? Possibly to allow the water to drain out instead of running down the bolts into the door.
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Old May 4th, 2013, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aosias View Post
Drilled it out, and tapped it. All back together but now they both leak. Replaced the rubber seal between the window and the door top. The previous rubber piece had a notch cut out and I am wondering if I need to do that to these? Possibly to allow the water to drain out instead of running down the bolts into the door.
That's exactly what the original notch was for, to allow water to drain out to the outside of the door, otherwise it has nowhere to go but down the bolts into the inside of the lower door, helping the frame to rust out nicely.
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  #14  
Old May 4th, 2013, 11:59 AM
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I have ron. I drilled it out from the top after removing the glass. I made sure i center punched it real good & started with a small bit & worked my way up in size up to where i almost got into the threads to "weaken" them. Then i did the same from the bottom but only went to a 1/4" bit. Then used an easy out to get it. PITA. After i put the studs back in i put O rings over them after the seal & that has kept water out of the stud holes in the doors
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