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  #1  
Old June 23rd, 2009, 03:39 PM
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Justin Church
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Any noticable horsepower gain from......

Running a dual electric fan system instead of an engine driven fan? Thinking of doing this and havent seen any definitive answer.
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  #2  
Old June 23rd, 2009, 03:58 PM
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John B.
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No, of course not.
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  #3  
Old June 23rd, 2009, 04:36 PM
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Justin Church
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I fugured as much!......We are talking about a rover afterall. There would be significant H.P. gain if there was a nice LT1 installed right behind the fans!!!!
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 10:31 PM
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I felt a difference when I swapped the engine fan for electric on my diesel.
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 10:44 PM
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I have to say, the amount that it improved maintenance on the front of the engine alone made the flex-a-lite's worth the swap. I was shocked how much room the factory fan and shroud setup took up.
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  #6  
Old June 25th, 2009, 06:31 PM
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Chuck Duncan
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Agree w/ Hans. Have run many miles with mine.
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  #7  
Old June 25th, 2009, 06:36 PM
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What type of fans are guys running? I've thought about going electric...
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  #8  
Old June 25th, 2009, 06:55 PM
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Chuck Duncan
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Mine is a dual Flexalite. I got the outline of the install online a while back; maybe even here, I don't remember. I used a Volkswagen switch in place of the A/C fan switch to control the fans like the article said, but the cut in / cut out temps didn't match the stock t-stat; they came on and stayed on all the time. I ended up buying a plug to fit the port in the t-stat housing and tapping out so I could install a switch that I bought at the local Kenworth dealer. Works great.
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  #9  
Old June 25th, 2009, 07:01 PM
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Personally, on my 4.0 (or any gas powered LR) I want the reliability of the mechanical fan. Yes it will cost you a couple of HP but thats pretty insignificant- I want to know for a fact that my fan is doing what it is supposed to every single time I drive no matter where I drive or what I just drove through or what I am about to drive through.

I wrote a lot more (rambling) then deleted it
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Old June 25th, 2009, 07:28 PM
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Until your fan clutch takes a dump.
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Old June 25th, 2009, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
Until your fan clutch takes a dump.

easy spare to keep, easier than trouble shooting burnt out fuses and wiring at night.
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Old June 25th, 2009, 07:58 PM
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Exactly.

Plus when a fan clutch goes bad it is almost always one of two ways-

#1- it locks up- meaning its loud and even more of a "drag" but there is no danger of overheating

#2- it freewheels- meaning that I can make #1 in about 5 minutes with a couple of strategically placed sheet metal screws

try doing that with a failed electric fan motor on the side of the trail
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Old June 26th, 2009, 06:58 AM
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So there are clearly 2 opinions on this.

By yours though there would seem to be overheated cars littering the roads with all those unreliable electric fans that are fitted to pretty much everything these days. Lets agree to disagree.
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Old June 26th, 2009, 09:21 AM
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No, I don't have problem with electric fans at all, in fact I will probably end up going that route on my Tdi truck. What I am saying though is on a truck that sees trail rig duty and has an engine that isnt particually strong in the head gasket department I feel its a safe bet to run the mechanical fan. I have driven trucks fitted with electric fans- in a V8 Rover with an E fan I find myself obsessively watching the temp guage, constantly in fear that the fuse will blow or the control relay will fail, or the motor will burn up, leaving me SOL on the side of the road.

Also I ran an electric fan on my drag car and loved it, but I was not four wheeling with it. It allowed me to switch it off during a run when I didnt want the additional load on the charging system, and keep it switched on beween trips down the track for much faster cool down times. I have never installed one on my wheeling trucks because I hear stories about fans getting packed with mud, or getting soaked in a deep water crossing, etc. Then there was the Flexalite I had on an old pickup of mine that burned the fan motor up out of the blue. Add to that the ease of locating a spare viscous fan clutch or rigging up a failed one and it makes no sense to me to run an electric fan.

As far assuming by my logic that millions of overheated cars would be littering the roads due to fan failure, well that seems a far reach.
1. Most cars today with electric cooling fans have them out of sheer necessity, due to the lack of room associated with transverse engine orientation. You will find a few cars with the old traditional longitudinal orientation and no room for a mechanical fan on the front of the motor, usually due to a low hoodline, but not many. But check under the hood of trucks and SUVs and you will find it to be the opposite situation. Automobile companies know that if they can, to stick with the mechanical fan.
2. When it is absolutely neccessary to use an electric cooling fan or two you will notice that system is well engineered to the task. They didn't just flip open the Summit catalog and order whatever fan would fit. Usually the parts are custom made to form fit the radiator, with additional ducting and air dams in front of the radiator maximising the efficiency of the design. Is all this required on a Rover? Who knows? I do know that these little FWD cars with electric fans arent out four wheeling through mud and deep water. What else I do know is that if you are going with an electric fan it would be best to take some extra time and thought and do it right. Most people don't. They think the e-fan is the magic bullet for the cooling system when in fact it is quite risky. [/RANT]

All that being said Kevin- I am sure I will end up with at least one electric fan on my truck. But the diesels are a whole different ballgame. One of the trucks I just saw come over from england hadnt had a fan on its 200Tdi in quite some time. I have read about guys in Europe wheeling through 100 degree heat and never seeing the needle climb on them. Hell during the winter here if I am stuck in traffic more than a few minutes mine cools off so much that I lose heat from the vents.
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  #15  
Old June 26th, 2009, 11:03 AM
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I noticed a difference on my ST... Also, I had my fan break and my fan shroud destroyed going through a deep water hole, so it was cheaper to put in a set of flex-i-lite fans instead of replacing the fan and fan shroud.

I did not notice a difference when I installed dual fans on my Yukon XL, but there is a significant difference in HP between that and the 90.
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  #16  
Old June 26th, 2009, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14
Plus when a fan clutch goes bad it is almost always one of two ways-

#1- it locks up- meaning its loud and even more of a "drag" but there is no danger of overheating

#2- it freewheels- meaning that I can make #1 in about 5 minutes with a couple of strategically placed sheet metal screws
...and #3 where the clutch locks up and pulls the fan blades into the radiator.....right Tyler ...resulting in many leaking tubes
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  #17  
Old June 26th, 2009, 06:00 PM
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Chuck Duncan
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A lot of good points here for both sides. I personally didn't go electric until my fan clutch failed. I have had electric failure on the trail, but lived to tell about it. I would have to agree with Joel and say ultimate reliability probably comes from the viscous fan. Having dual electrics helps reliability; don't go with a single. I saw one manufacturer a while back that was offering an electric clutch, engine driven fan similar to the air clutch fans on the big trucks, but as usual, no LR offering. This would be the best way to go. Your engine drives the fan through the clutch. You could easily set it up to manually lock in or out. In case of failure, a screw can be used to lock the clutch members together. But I'm rambling about something that probably still isn't available to all of us.
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  #18  
Old June 26th, 2009, 06:49 PM
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I've even seen hydraulic driven fans before, in a Lexus. Ran off the power steering pump. Always thought that was a nifty idea.

-Hans
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  #19  
Old June 27th, 2009, 02:46 AM
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One thing nobody has mentioned is you can run two sensors and two fans on two separate power supply lines and give twice the reliability, you just need a way to tell if one dies. For my 200TDI I am considering doing this but keeping one fan switched off manually (wading switches on both) and only turning it on if there is a coolant temperature issue or I know that the other has failed. RAID for cooling.

Oh and the VDO temperature gauge for sure (well, all VDO gauges since I want ones I can actually read in the dark )
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