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  #1  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 01:28 PM
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Marc
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anti-theft ideas

Defenders are magnets for vandalism, theft of interior swag, and unfortunately the vehicle themselves. I have been a victim on three seperate occasions. Vandalism 1; kids threw a large (2'x2') metal object off of an overpass, directly at my Rover while I was cruising on the HWY at 65mphr. The object hit the frt end, went under and destroyed my tie rod, and messed up the alignment. Vandalism 2; kids jumping up and down on the bonnet, and kicked the windshield.
Cracked windshield, and beat up bonnet, repairs over $1000 easy. Teft 1; 110 side windows smashed, $1000 worth of tools stolen, in an enclosed and attended parking lot.

My biggest fear however, is the the truck itself will be subject to a heist. Alarms are useless,(as all NYkers know) and are
ignored and disabled within seconds. I am thinking of a "CUT OFF SWITCH", that would disable any start or hot wiring
attempt.

What would you recommend, and how to install. Pics would be great if possible.
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  #2  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 02:04 PM
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Steve Maietta
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Big battery wire cutoff switch (one that requires a special key) mounted to the battery(seat) box. Get in, reach down plug in the key, switch on to connect power, then start your rover as normal. no special key, no start. cover the switch with a flap of carpet or rubber if you want to stealth the switch, or you could mount it somewhere else (maybe inside the cubby)

or maybe you can..
set your transfer box to neutral when you leave the truck.
or maybe you can..
quick release steering wheel

~Steve (had my tools and other stuff stolen once too!)
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  #3  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 02:21 PM
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No money ideas:

Transfer case N (as stated above)
Pull the main EFI relay
Pull the starter relay
Take the steering wheel with you (its only 1 nut)
Take the coil wire with you
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  #4  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 02:24 PM
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not to be a smart ass but move. somewhere in the mts your rig will be way more fun!
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  #5  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 02:45 PM
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Robert Dassler
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Jacobs Electronics used to sell an anti car jacking device. I'm not sure if it is still available. The car would start normally but required tripping a microswitch after starting. Failing to trip the microswitch would start a timer and after about 30 seconds the coil wire would be grounded, stalling the car.
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  #6  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadsiderob
Jacobs Electronics used to sell an anti car jacking device. I'm not sure if it is still available. The car would start normally but required tripping a microswitch after starting. Failing to trip the microswitch would start a timer and after about 30 seconds the coil wire would be grounded, stalling the car.
I have that! It was pretty cool... It came as part of their coil pack "thing". Worked just as you described. It even caught me a couple times when I forgot to flip the switch. That left me confused for a minute or two!

The funny thing was that I did an engine swap and the whole coil thing and microswitch no longer worked....darn it! I have no idea why.
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  #7  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 03:49 PM
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Ben
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My alarm system is wired into the ignition, and if alarm is tripped you can't start the car without disarming it through the remote
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  #8  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revtor
Big battery wire cutoff switch (one that requires a special key) mounted to the battery(seat) box. Get in, reach down plug in the key, switch on to connect power, then start your rover as normal. no special key, no start. cover the switch with a flap of carpet or rubber if you want to stealth the switch, or you could mount it somewhere else (maybe inside the cubby)

or maybe you can..
set your transfer box to neutral when you leave the truck.
or maybe you can..
quick release steering wheel

~Steve (had my tools and other stuff stolen once too!)

I haven't see a keyed battery cut off switch though, any suggestions?


Pulling relay switches etc.. is not really a handy solution and seems a PIA when cruising into the city. That coil grounding switch might be interesting..

And about moving to mountains, well.....I live in the mountains in Highmount NY in the Catskills. It's when I cruise to cities thats gets me in trouble.
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  #9  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 08:47 PM
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Loic Fabro
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Not sure how it is called, but there is a small wire going to the coil what when unplugged from the coil will prevent the car from starting....

Also, you can probably have a small switch wired to the accident fuel cut-off sensor (the thingy on the firewall that you will forget to reset after doing some work and inadvertently hitting it.....).

Something I found was cool I have seen on the rental beetles in Mexico: some kind of electronic device/keychain that you have to pass next to a sensor that will allow you to start the car in the following 30 seconds. Probably similar technology that was is found in your access card at work. Not sure how secure it is, but if it is odd enough (and discrete), probably worth considering! :-)

Where do you live again?
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  #10  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 08:48 PM
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I have a fuel cut-off valve.
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  #11  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 09:03 PM
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where did you tap the fuel line, and where's the tap, at the seat box? did you use a series fuel tap?
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  #12  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 04:40 AM
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relay

I just unplugged one of my relays, the relay is small enough to put it my pocket, it works for me so far!
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  #13  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 08:17 AM
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Jim Cheney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewap
where did you tap the fuel line, and where's the tap, at the seat box? did you use a series fuel tap?
I built my own fuel system using braided stainless hose and stainless hardlines from Swagelok. The valve (one for the supply and one for the return) are on the passenger side of the seat box corresponding to the location of the parking brake. They are actually the valves that switch between my front and rear tanks, but they also have an "off" position. The truck runs for about a minute before fuel starvation sets in.
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  #14  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Bone
I just unplugged one of my relays, the relay is small enough to put it my pocket, it works for me so far!
What if you lose the relay?
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  #15  
Old November 4th, 2006, 03:15 PM
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I remember reading in one of the LR mags a while back about an anti theft device that utilized the clutch, it worked by having a valve that would allow the clutch pedal to push down so the car could be started, but unless disabled it would not let the fluid return and so the car couldn't be driven, because it could never be put in gear. I dont remember if it was electronic or mechanically operated, but I will try and look for it. I remember them talking pretty highly about it in the article though.
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  #16  
Old November 4th, 2006, 04:07 PM
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Vince
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Seriously, they really don’t steal Defenders. 90’s 0r 110’s. Let me explain. I live in the Los Angeles area. I checked the stats and have not found a defender on the list. With the small amount of these vehicles o the road, they are not a target.

Now anything can and will happen. I am sure, someone may want to take one of our babies and ship her out of the country. The major cars taken are late model Toyota’s and Honda’s. If your Defender falls victim to a GTA, (grand theft auto) someone targeted the vehicle for a specific reason. Many times vehicles are stolen for joy rides or to complete other crimes. This is 95% of the time. Surgical strips, VIN switches and total Out of Country GTA’s are rare. If you were a criminal dirtbag, I would rather grab a Honda or Toyota to commit my crimes not a rare limited production Defender.

I have read that off road rigs are taken for their after market parts. Wheels, winches and lighting. Living in our society has a risk to theft. For my own piece of mind, I have LoJack on my Defender. Remember, if you park a LoJack equipped vehicle and it is taken overnight. It may be morning by the time you realize the vehicle was even taken. LoJack now has an early warning System that is worth the extra money.

Vandalism and straight theft is the most common. Kids jumping on the hood and kicking out the front window is extremely rare. Those kids need their ass kicked. Remember prevention is the number #1 deterrent to crime. If you’re carrying tools in the rear of your Defender, they should be locked in a compartment that is attached to your vehicle. Having a tool box, laptop and even a cell phone in plain sight in your defender is just inviting trouble.
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  #17  
Old November 4th, 2006, 04:31 PM
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Neil Flanagan
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http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cf...prod/prd66.htm

The Hella battery switches are only rated to 100amps. These are rated to 250. I have a Flaming River switch in line with my winch which is always in the off position until I need it. This way, as I live and work in a heavily populated area, I never have to worry about someone jumping the solenoid to play with my winch in a parking lot...
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