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  #1  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:11 PM
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barry f
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Anti-Seize

I was wondering what everyone uses for anti-seize. I have used this crap for years
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ubricant_a.htm

but I hate how I spend more time cleaning it off of everything than actually using it. It is beyond messy and sucks to get off paint. Is there anything better and less messy?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #2  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:14 PM
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where do you use this?
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  #3  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
I was wondering what everyone uses for anti-seize. I have used this crap for years
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ubricant_a.htm

but I hate how I spend more time cleaning it off of everything than actually using it. It is beyond messy and sucks to get off paint. Is there anything better and less messy?
That's what I use. I have some in a spray can, too.

...don't know how you get it on your paint, though.
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Old March 25th, 2011, 02:25 PM
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I use a lot of this http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/...r-Blue-242.htm

I have not had problems with it on any of my trucks.
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  #5  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:29 PM
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I'm on my second tub of Copper Ease. Given the insane level of road salting that goes on in the UK, glopping this stuff on is the only way you get to use wrenches to remove fasteners instead of an angle grinder.
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[appropriated from Ren Ching] Most faults can usually be traced to the badge on the grill.
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Originally Posted by chris snell
This is straight out of the Manual for Build Builders.
Tony
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  #6  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
I use a lot of this http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/...r-Blue-242.htm

I have not had problems with it on any of my trucks.
Aren't antiseize and locktite the opposite product? I have used it in various places but things that come to mind in-particular are the cage bolts on my nas 110 and hinge bolts on my 90. Even if you get a tiny bit on the paint it makes a mess.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #7  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:39 PM
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Brake Clean removes that stuff from the paint....

How do you get it on the paint anyway? How much are you applying? I keep an acid brush in my can and apply a small amount to the threads and everything is fine.

I'll write you an instructional manual on how to apply anit-seize.....
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  #8  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
I use a lot of this http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/...r-Blue-242.htm

I have not had problems with it on any of my trucks.

That's not anti-seize, it's seize.
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[appropriated from Ren Ching] Most faults can usually be traced to the badge on the grill.
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Originally Posted by chris snell
This is straight out of the Manual for Build Builders.
Tony
1984 110 "Smokey" (sold)
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  #9  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:42 PM
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Please provide a detailed manual. I like to brush it on nice and thick and pretend that the replacement bolts wont rust in the same manner as the originals. They literally rust looking at them. I replaced every bolt on my nas 110 cage with genuine bolts. Less than a year half were rusting.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #10  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Aren't antiseize and locktite the opposite product? I have used it in various places but things that come to mind in-particular are the cage bolts on my nas 110 and hinge bolts on my 90. Even if you get a tiny bit on the paint it makes a mess.
In my last job.... I hand built about 20+ prototype trailers for the US military... When we where not using stainless lock-nuts we had to use this thread "sealant". It is much different then a permanent thread locker, like locktite RED.

Read the specs and you will see it has corrosion resistance. It creates a nice barrier. After tesing trailers in the corrosion chambers, cold chambers, heat chambers, vibration tables at Nevada Automotive Test Center and Aberdeen Test Center, etc.. this stuff held up, and you where able to take out the bolts and there where not siezing.


Bathroom Reading: http://www.woodencrates.org/standards/MIL-S-46163.pdf
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  #11  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Please provide a detailed manual. I like to brush it on nice and thick and pretend that the replacement bolts wont rust in the same manner as the originals. They literally rust looking at them. I replaced every bolt on my nas 110 cage with genuine bolts. Less than a year half were rusting.
YGM homey
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  #12  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TS888 View Post
That's not anti-seize, it's seize.

I think it falls into the category of "sealants with corrosion resistance"
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  #13  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:49 PM
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two letters

Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
I was wondering what everyone uses for anti-seize.
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  #14  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
I wonder if you could use it to abate the corrosion on that rusty delaminating crossmember of yours?

-Jeff
Was planning to just smear it all over the inside of the crossmember. I received all my eastwood crap to fix that. Hoefully the truck wont turn to dust before I start.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #15  
Old March 25th, 2011, 02:56 PM
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this is what we've been using for years for marine vehicles and robotics. It's phenominal as a lubricant - but we've found it is better than any anti-sieze we've used - particularly for stainless on stainless which is notoriously fussy. Also, for corrosion reason, introducing certain second or third metallic agents (copper and zinc being in many anti-siezes) can cause bigger issues for us.

in some ways it is less nasty clean-up wise than metallic anti-siezes - but being a waterproof grease, it's a bit gooey. We call it Gumby Cum (it's Gumby green) or the Devils Lipstick (never comes off)...

http://www.aogrepairs.com/index.php?id=95
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  #16  
Old March 25th, 2011, 03:07 PM
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I use both the copper and the aluminum kind...They are both messy.

I use the aluminum stuff on anything that is not subjected to high heat like brake caliper bolts, suspension components ect.

The copper stuff goes on exhaust studs and nuts, brake pad sliding pins, engine accessories
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  #17  
Old March 25th, 2011, 03:08 PM
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Barry's neighbor hates him so throws a bucket of salt water on them every night...
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  #18  
Old March 25th, 2011, 03:27 PM
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Has anybody explored Titanium. http://store.mettec.com/category/238

I am not sure the strength comparisons..
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  #19  
Old March 25th, 2011, 03:37 PM
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What Carey said. Brake cleaner takes it right off. You do buy a case of brake cleaner when Advance Auto Parts has it on sale, right, Barry?
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  #20  
Old March 25th, 2011, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
What Carey said. Brake cleaner takes it right off. You do buy a case of brake cleaner when Advance Auto Parts has it on sale, right, Barry?
He has to buy that California compliant cleaner... It probably gets you high but for the most part it is useless
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