Anti-freeze in cylinders - Defender Source
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Old January 29th, 2006, 01:35 PM
boxerhips
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Tim Riccardi
1995 d90
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Anti-freeze in cylinders

I just removed the heads from a 4.6 that I was given and there was anti-freeze in all pass side cylinders. The engine was removed for loss of compression. The waterpump shaft came off while driving on highway. I was told the driver pulled over as soon as it happend. The drivers side is fine. When I check the heads with a straight edge there is about a 1-2mm gap in middle, also the middle head bolts were really tight. The block does not appear to have drop a cylinder sleave, they are flush. None of the cylinders look stream cleaned, they all look the same. I've had a head gasket go before and you could see a noticable leak from water to piston, I can't fine anything on this engine. Should I have heads pressure tested? I don't have to use they, but that might tell me if the block is good. I've heard the heads never crack, just warp, is this a correct statement? The engine oil and insde the block looks fine. Is there a way to check block? Tim
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  #2  
Old January 29th, 2006, 10:12 PM
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Mike Hansen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxerhips
When I check the heads with a straight edge there is about a 1-2mm gap in middle,
WOW thats alot for a head. If there are no cracks in the head it should be fine once it is milled. Do both not just one! I do not know how to check an aluminum block, as I have no experience rebuilding them.(yet...knock on wood).
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Old January 29th, 2006, 10:52 PM
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Robert Dassler
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Ok,
to warp a head that much the engine severely overheated. I don't think you can safely cut that much material off of the head without 1) seriously affecting compression, 2) seriously having pushrod length problems, 3) having serious intake mismatch. These blocks are known for having problems cracking behind the liners and causing mysterious coolant loss and overheating. I recently had a customer with a D2 seriously overheat. I recommended a longblock. They declined and opted to have the heads pressure checked and cut and new head gaskets installed. The car immediately began using small amounts of coolant and eventually began coolant fouling #5 even though the heads checked out and there was no apparent block damage. I recently put a used 4.6 into the car.
I would be very careful about how much money and time you sink into this motor. A good 4.6 is worth a fair bit of money. I suspect there is a reason it was free... My advise is to pull the crank, rods, and pistons and find a known good block to put them in. The bore size of the 3.9, 4.0, and 4.6 is the same. It is the internals that make it a 4.6. Ideally look for a cross bolted 4.0 or 4.6 block. As a last resort I would use the one currently in the truck.
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Old January 30th, 2006, 12:59 AM
boxerhips
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Tim Riccardi
1995 d90
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Rob Can you install a 4.6 crank in a 3.9 block?

Follow-up Post:

Rob Can you install a 4.6 crank in a 3.9 block? I was eyeing the heads with a square, not a calibrated strait edge. I will take head to machine shop to check. Tim
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Old January 30th, 2006, 01:38 AM
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Roadsiderob
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Robert Dassler
1994 D90
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Tim,
I believe the crank/rods/pistons from the 4.6 will fit the 3.9 block. If possible, I would look for a 4.0 or 4.6 cross bolted block first, as the bottom end will be stronger. I have done several 4.6 swaps using the original 3.9 front cover & distributor. I usually use a Crane cam, lifters, and roller timing chain. The 3.9 oil pan will work but you may have to 'clearance' it for the front crank throw. It's a nice running engine.
If you are planning to put the engine in your D90, I would not mess with a set of badly warped heads. I would have the 3.9 heads rebuilt and use those. A good machine shop should be able to check the block for you. Basically it involves sealing the cooling system and pressurizing it to about 30psi and then looking for air leaks (use soapy water). I would be wary of the block. The cooling passages are on the front & rear of the block...none in the middle...if the middle cylinders had coolant in them, there is a serious problem somewhere. For the heads to be that visibly warped, the car had to have been driven in an overheat condition for a while. "Pulled over as soon as it happened" probably really translates to "pulled over as soon as I happened to find the nearest Starbucks so I could have a latte and use the little girls room while I waited for a tow". Ask me how I know this!;o) Waterpump shafts do not just fall off...it probably made noise and leaked and got hot for 100 miles before it fell apart. These engines are relatively expensive to build and I wouldn't take too many chances investing time, money and parts to rebuild questionable components. The guts are the important part and getting them for free is fantastic. Good luck with your project.

Almost forgot...you'll need a spacer to make the 3.9 pulley work with the 4.6 crank. I had a bunch of spacers machined out of old crank gears and still have a few left.
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