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  #41  
Old July 14th, 2006, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R. Kurk
Question for Mike Smith at ECR.

You mentioned in this thread that you wrap the oil lines in a thermo-wrap. Could you share what material/product/manufacturer you use? There appears to be a variety of materials to pick from, but a recommendation from someone having done this would be helpful. This seems like a good additional step and extra insurance.

Thanks,

Rich K.
The link Rob put up has some great products, just like we use. It is a fabric that is covered in silver heat reflective material. They call it heat sleeve. That will do nicely. It reflects the heat from the manifold away from the line some and also if you sleeve the entire line it would (in my theory) deflect the spray of oil away from the engine and down the sleeve if it did burst (as its only going to be 40-20 psi) for enough time for you to shut it down without starting a fire.
This is basically the same material used on the fuel lines of a 1993-1995 Defender near the back of the engine if you want to see it.

People also do SS lines and taking the oil cooler out all together is also an option.
There is no wrong answer. Even just making sure the lines are in goiod shape like Matt B said is good insurance.

Ragland:

Tdis do have oil cooler lines... but they aren't 2.5" away from the RH exhaust manifold like the V8 ones... as the Tdi exhaust manifold is on the other side of the car (see earlier post).

As for LR and the NHTSA... I'm not going to hold my breath until they get invloved.

Alerted and aware owners are more effective. Lets not freak anybody out. I think it should be easy to end the fires with prevention and a fire ex. in your rig. It the oblivious owners that have original 1992 oil lines and 100K miles that would worry me, not the guys on this list.

I've also got one customer from NY that you can talk with when you say "Let's be real here. These oil lines are spraying. There is no denying that." He's convinced that ECR burnt his 110 due to our actions. Fortunately now he is Matts problem.



Have a good weekend all and don't freak, just be aware and prepared.
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  #42  
Old July 14th, 2006, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
Hence the reason we now cover the oil lines from end to end in a thermo-wrap sleeve.
When I bought my 110, the oil cooler lines were done in an identical way. Being the paranoid type, I went ahead and replaced them with braided stainless anyway. The Rover Accessories kit is only about $50 more dollars than OEM, so I went that route.
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  #43  
Old July 14th, 2006, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newfD90
When I bought my 110, the oil cooler lines were done in an identical way. Being the paranoid type, I went ahead and replaced them with braided stainless anyway. The Rover Accessories kit is only about $50 more dollars than OEM, so I went that route.

What is the heat rating on the braided ss units??
I'm not beeing cheeky, I honestly don't know. Hopefully far more than the original Aeroquip lines.
Anyone???
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  #44  
Old July 14th, 2006, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyddog11
Replace them when you do the top end of the motor at 100-125K miles and install them correctly and all should be fine.
What in the "top end" should be done at 100-125K? My 97's getting close to that now.
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  #45  
Old July 14th, 2006, 12:52 PM
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Mike,

Reminds me of the story about the guy with the rattle. Short version - for years guy complains of rattle in car, mechanic says there is nothing wrong. One day guy finds glass bottle in fender with note, "Glad you finally found the rattle you SOB".

I realize there are other engines with oil coolers, but there are no other models with this issue. Perhaps this is what can happen with low volume vehicles. But they should put out a revised service suggestion.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by thewap
Robert, how many miles did the oil lines last before the spray trick?
The truck was around 95k. Oddly enough, it was due to go into service within a week for a routine maintenance. New lines were on the list. Guess somebody thought a little show was in order, first.
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  #46  
Old July 14th, 2006, 12:58 PM
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I used the aeroquip high-temp hose when I rebuilt mine. Rated at -104 to 300 degrees, 250psi, and has the blue textile wrapping on it.

Oh, and Mike, have you been submitting and complaints to the NHTSA through their website? They do have a complaint form to fill out regarding stuff like this. I just found it, and put in a general complaint regarding this issue. But you have a lot more info you can provide them about this, being that you have seen them in person.

-Hans
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  #47  
Old July 14th, 2006, 01:11 PM
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Is this the truck from NY that caught fire.
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  #48  
Old July 14th, 2006, 01:17 PM
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One of them. Now resides in Maine under a tarp. Just a burned out shell of its' former self.
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  #49  
Old July 14th, 2006, 01:45 PM
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Isn't 300 degrees way to low???

Most hose ratings (if I recall) are for set for the fluid running in them (like oil at X psi at X degrees) I think the question should be asked on all these upgraded lines about what temps the hose is externally rated for, as I think it is the heat from the exhaust manifold that breaks down the lines... and that is far more than 300 degrees.
So the line will easily handle the 60 psi at cold start up and the oil temp of about 220 degrees... but what about that 800 degree plus exhaust manifold that is 2 inches away??

Routing the hoses away from the manifold would seem to be the best way to go all things considered. IMO.


No, I have not done any compliants with the NHTSA. I want nothing to do with them, not even on this subject.
At LRNAs request back in 1996 those loons (NHTSA) tried to shut us down when we started converting NAS D90s into D110s. Someone narc'd on us and told LRNA we were importing 110s and LRNA pitched a hissy fit (as in the begining of that aspect of our business we did not come out and say that we were converting 90s, just building 110s as we were the first to do it. We thought we'd keep it secret... we didn't). Nothing came of it, and it wasn't a formal charge as we proved were we just doing over NAS D90s (thankfully we had pictures of what we were doing), but ever since then the bigger the distance between me and the DOT the better.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ron
Is this the truck from NY that caught fire.
Thats the one. 11K and 5 years on new Genuine lines. There was no "other". So I don't know what he means by "one of them".

Follow-up Post:

Ya know... I started this thread to basically say what a bummer it was that an NAS 110 had been burnt... Look what a mess I have created.

Have good weekend all!!
Too hot here!
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  #50  
Old July 14th, 2006, 02:00 PM
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eh? That truck burned a year ago. "One of them" as in other 110's. A general statement meaning their have been many 110's that have burned, especially recently.
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  #51  
Old July 14th, 2006, 02:13 PM
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Yes, if it was routed next to the manifold the 300 degree hose wouldn't be enough. But the nice thing about the MOCAL plate and the custom hoses was that I could point both connections straight out and away from the manifold, instead of going straight towards it like the factory pieces. Mine never get within 6" of the manifold. If I ever get around to changing the radiator side fittings, I could probably get even more clearance.

-Hans
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My oil line fix

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  #52  
Old July 15th, 2006, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryO
What in the "top end" should be done at 100-125K? My 97's getting close to that now.
I've had quite a few motors that either had badly worn cam/valve train or blown /leaking head gaskets and needed a "top end" rebuild at about this mileage. Might as well change the oil lines "while your in there".


Mike, I wasn't trying to be "cheeky" with the comment on oil burning.

Yesterday I took a mangy old oil line and heated it up (just above my rangies headers on a hard run into town for latte) for authenticity, then hooked it up to the compressor while still in the engine bay and split the pipe at 75 psi. I wonder if having pressurized hot liqiud (more sensitive to quck pressure change) and a pipe that is being heated by the exhaust is enough to do the job.

The other thing of consequence I have noted in at least one burnt rig ( and I don't think its limited to 110's as I've seen quite a few Rangies and Disco's....anything with a 3.9 in my opinion) are clogged catalytic converters. The resulting higher manifold temp may have got to the oil line?
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  #53  
Old July 15th, 2006, 08:50 AM
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The fuel lines on the fuel injected v-8 models are causing fires also. And the heat shield material wrapped around the ful lines is highly flamable also. I believe it was the cause of the fire on Kelgrens truck. Alan at north tejas had this happen to him on a test drive, fuel line fire.

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  #54  
Old July 16th, 2006, 12:38 AM
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Is the Mocal Thermo adjusted plate a important enough upgrade that I should ditch the plate that came with the Rover Accessories kit I bought and was getting ready to install next oil change?
The first thing I did to my 110 was replace the oil lines and power steering lines in 2002 when I got the truck (74K Miles) I now have 110K Miles on the rig and I am getting paranoid again.......
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  #55  
Old July 16th, 2006, 12:32 PM
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I wouldn't say it's that important. It was mostly just a way for me to get standard size fittings on the engine side of the hoses so that I could use something other than the factory replacements. The thermostatic control was just a bonus feature that I went for since I had to change the plate anyway. Since you're already using upgraded hoses, I wouldn't rush out to do it.

-Hans
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My oil line fix

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  #56  
Old July 17th, 2006, 04:22 AM
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Split oil line here, two years ago. I was running up the gears, topping out the rpms (highest oil pressure) and one of the oil lines exploded. I put the fire out with two dry chem extinguisers I keep strapped to the roll cage either side, thus saving the truck from certain death. The fire seemed to have started at the passenger cat and work forward. I recommend replacing the oil and power steering hoses every couple of years, or go with stainless braid (which can still rot and leak, but will never explode).

DW
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  #57  
Old July 17th, 2006, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
The fuel lines on the fuel injected v-8 models are causing fires also. And the heat shield material wrapped around the ful lines is highly flamable also. I believe it was the cause of the fire on Kelgrens truck. Alan at north tejas had this happen to him on a test drive, fuel line fire.
)
Fuel lines can cause issues for sure, but in these 110 cases we are seeing, on the ones that didn't go up too badly, we can still see the fuel lines in tact and still connected. It the RH front of the engine bays that look like a melted wasteland.
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  #58  
Old July 17th, 2006, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
The fuel lines on the fuel injected v-8 models are causing fires also. And the heat shield material wrapped around the ful lines is highly flamable also. I believe it was the cause of the fire on Kelgrens truck. Alan at north tejas had this happen to him on a test drive, fuel line fire.
This is very valid as well since it according to the official investigation on my truck, ultimatly turned out to be what caused my engine fire for those of you that remember my D90 going up in flames.
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead.php?t=8133

Originally I thought it was the oil lines too and had spoke to Mike back and forth in email regarding the topic at the time since ECR was pretty much leading the pack in getting at trucks that this had been happening to in order to see what common denominators he might have been seeing on the trucks there were working on. This is what prompted the info gathering thread here: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead.php?t=6134 to see what kind of info we could gather and hopefully come up with something to look at.

I dont recall who asked it earlier but this issue is not only in the 1993 110's but as we saw last year, quite a number of '94 D90's started exeriancing this failure.
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  #59  
Old July 17th, 2006, 10:58 AM
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So what was the end result re: the fuel lines?

Loose return line?
Loose supply line/ leaking?
Rubbed through the valve cover?
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  #60  
Old July 17th, 2006, 11:16 AM
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They wrote it up as the fuel line at the back of the engine was not properly reconnected after some work was done to the truck right before I moved the truck here to TX, and gas misting out ignited.
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