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  #21  
Old October 8th, 2012, 04:36 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Neill,

As far as tension follow the tension instructions in the Diff Lock article. I can send it to you if you PM me your email. LR revised the tension so the Workshop manual describes the older, higher tension. Here's a quote: "However, the quoted torque to be applied to the tensioning bracket was originally quoted as 15NM plus or minus 7 percent which is around twice the margin of error of Dial Indicating Torque Wrenches. However, Land Rover's latest service bulletin amends this tension to a new lower figure of 11NM"

Also when replacing the belt did you replace tensioner and crankshaft gear? That is did you purchase the timing kit? The bearing in the tensioner only have about 60K on them so they need to be replaced as well not just the belt. Also the crankshaft gear should have a lip on it to prevent the belt from coming off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
No, I can turn the crank manually and the injector and cam were turning with it. Best guess is either the cam or crank jumped. I had just replaced the belt 3 days before this, so I can only guess the tension was off. I did it by the numbers according to the workshop manual, but now I think I am going to go with the "loose enough so the belt doesn't snap, but tight enough that this never f**king happens again" method.

I haven't pulled the front cover yet, I have family coming in to town today for Josh's (Crash303) wedding. So this is going to go on hold for the next week or so. But I just started 2 weeks of vacation at work so I have a good week to work it.
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  #22  
Old October 8th, 2012, 08:46 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Neill,
As far as tension follow the tension instructions in the Diff Lock article. I can send it to you if you PM me your email.
I could use this, please send at:

dalcosta (at) claro dot net dot do

Thanks
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  #23  
Old October 9th, 2012, 08:18 AM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD View Post

I could use this, please send at:

dalcosta (at) claro dot net dot do

Thanks
I could use it too please! mark dot kellgren at earthlink dot net
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  #24  
Old October 9th, 2012, 09:04 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Check your emails.
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  #25  
Old October 9th, 2012, 09:23 AM
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Gren Thomas
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Hi Neill, bummer with your troubles especially with the previous cooling issues.
before you get it back together make sure the crank keyway is ok.

It would not be the first crank keyway that has failed.

best of luck in the future.

Gren
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  #26  
Old October 9th, 2012, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Neill,

Also the crankshaft gear should have a lip on it to prevent the belt from coming off.

FYI interested parties

This lip is only on the updated 300TDI crank pulleys. It is not present on early 300tdi units or any 200 tdi units
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  #27  
Old October 9th, 2012, 10:45 AM
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the 2.8 pulley has lip as well. That Difflok article is fantastic! It said replace pulleys every other belt change (120k), so that saves me some dough since this will be my first belt change.
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  #28  
Old October 9th, 2012, 02:38 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Check your emails.
Got it, great stuff, thanks.
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  #29  
Old October 9th, 2012, 05:18 PM
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As far as the key on the crankshaft pulley shearing here's my .02

On early VW TDI's and the G60 supercharged PG motor it was a common occurrence for the key on the crank pulley for the timing belt to shear and wreak all sorts of havoc. It was terminal on the TDI's but just a major PITA on the PG motors since they were non interference. A lot of times when the key was working its way slack where it could shear it would bugger the crank shaft key way as well. Best solution we found over the years was to drill the crank snout and pulley in situ and install two hardened steel pins. Pinning the crank was the only way my friend was able to keep the timing belt pulley on his PG motor in place. He initially swapped cranks, used a new pulley with proper stretch bolt torqued to spec and it happened twice after that. Pinned the pulley to the crank and no problems after that..
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  #30  
Old October 9th, 2012, 08:06 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Check your emails.
Those write ups are so good they make me feel I have to check my belt tensioning again. I did it with a click torque wrench and I think my error margin is too wide. I will have to borrow a good dial torque wrench somewhere and give this thing right tension.
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  #31  
Old October 9th, 2012, 11:07 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Glad you all like the article. I found it the most helpful. More helpful than the workshop manual.

I used a click torque wrench as well. I might get a dial torque wrench next time although I spoke to Doug (Ships) and he claimed they weren't as accurate as promised either.

I noticed that my engine is running a little rougher and smokes more after the belt change so I probably need to do a fine tuning adjustment of the timing. Steve has a great thread on it here about that. The idle is creates a lot more vibration now than it used to and the shifter stick shakes like crazy. I am hoping a timing adjustment will bring it back to where it was. I also noticed that the fuel economy is down significantly after the belt change. Anyone have thoughts on this?
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  #32  
Old October 9th, 2012, 11:19 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Sounds like you're slightly off on the belt. I don't know how deep a wrong tensioning could affect normal operation.
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  #33  
Old October 10th, 2012, 12:26 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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I'm pretty confident the belt was installed correctly. I marked the old belt with white marker then overlaid new belt on top of it, counted teeth and marked the new belt in the same spots. 3 reference marks on three different pulleys and at least 10 obsessive double checks to follow so pretty sure it went in exactly like the old one. I did notice however that prior to change the bell housing notch was never quite centered when the fuel pump pin was inserted. Like they weren't in total sync. I rotated the engine several times but it always ended up slightly off. I would have to wiggle the pin a fair bit to get it into the bell housing. I wonder if that had anything to do with it. The tension should be fine as well. The click wrench should be in the range and the diff look article claims that there is some tolerance for error on either side when it comes to tension.

I have a little bit more knocking noise than I used to as well. Hopefully a timing adjustment will reduce this as well as smoke and vibration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD
Sounds like you're slightly off on the belt. I don't know how deep a wrong tensioning could affect normal operation.
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  #34  
Old October 10th, 2012, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
I did notice however that prior to change the bell housing notch was never quite centered when the fuel pump pin was inserted. Like they weren't in total sync..
You are supposed to loosen the injection pump sprocket bolts and set the timing so that they both align. New and old belts will not be exactly the same length. Belts stretch with use and the timing becomes retarded slightly requiring resetting of the timing.
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  #35  
Old October 10th, 2012, 02:38 PM
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Jamie Austin
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Welcome to my club. Had a hard time finding push rods, check with British Pacific, that's where I got them, all other parts I got from LR Direct, multiple and clear quality choice and fast shipping. Let us know if belt got deflanged or snapped.

The push rods are the same as the old series 2.25 engines.
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  #36  
Old October 12th, 2012, 12:09 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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I loosened the sprockets according to the Diff Lock instructions but I did not align them. How do you go about doing that exactly? Rotate the crank shaft clockwise until bell house notch is six o'clock then adjust sprocket so that the sprocket notch is centered? I thought setting the timing was more precise than that. Like using different sized drill bits like described in Steve's thread. How do you set the timing with a dial gauge?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
You are supposed to loosen the injection pump sprocket bolts and set the timing so that they both align. New and old belts will not be exactly the same length. Belts stretch with use and the timing becomes retarded slightly requiring resetting of the timing.
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  #37  
Old October 12th, 2012, 09:19 AM
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You set the crank notch at the right place, loosen the insjector bolts and insert the pin in the injector notch. Then retighten.

The dial method requires an adapter that bolts to the end of the injection pump and you measure the plunger lift at TDC.
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  #38  
Old October 12th, 2012, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
The dial method requires an adapter that bolts to the end of the injection pump and you measure the plunger lift at TDC.
What ?
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  #39  
Old October 12th, 2012, 11:33 AM
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What ?
You mount a dial gauge to the center port at the distributor end of the pump... http://www.toolwarehaus.com/BOSCH%20DIESEL%20TOOLS.asp

You measure the lift at TDC (by the flywheel notch). The lift for 200 and 300TDIs by the workshop manual are 1.54 mm at TDC.

Page 12-1 of 300TDI Defender Workshop Manual
Quote:
ENGINE TUNING DATA
300 Tdi ENGINE
Type .................................................. ............................... 2.5 Litre Turbo diesel intercooled
Firing order .................................................. ................... 1-3-4-2
Injection timing............................................ ................... 1,54 mm lift at T.D.C.
Injection timing with electronic EGR ............................ 1,40 mm lift at T.D.C.
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  #40  
Old October 12th, 2012, 02:55 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
You measure the lift at TDC (by the flywheel notch). The lift for 200 and 300TDIs by the workshop manual are 1.54 mm at TDC.
Quite interesting, never heard of this method before, fine tuning of the injection pump. Is there a step by step procedure available somewhere ?
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