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  #1  
Old February 4th, 2011, 11:01 AM
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Another hot stall thread....

Driving to work this AM the 90 stalled. Had been driving for about 15 mins, was up to temp, averaging 50MPH, everything humming and then suddenly lost power. Pulled over and tried to start. First time I turned the starter over it would catch for a second then nothing. Second time I pumped the accelerator when it started to catch and it sputtered. Finally after about 6 attempts and pumping the accelerator to keep the RPM's up above 3K it stayed running and I drove it all the way to work like nothing was wrong.

Two things I know...

1) Vacuum advance doesn't work but the truck drives fine once warmed up a little.

2) I just installed a new stereo and four speakers last weekend and while I doubt it has anything to do with this problem I'm wondering about the possibility of chaffed wires grounding out somewhere. It's a stretch I know.

Ideas? While I live only 18 miles from work I'd rather not have to walk home a portion of that this evening.

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  #2  
Old February 4th, 2011, 11:08 AM
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Scott Y
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Did the ECU throw any codes? Do you hear the fuel whine as try to start?
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  #3  
Old February 4th, 2011, 11:37 AM
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Short answer is I don't know. Where I "stopped" was along a busy route so I really couldn't hear anything. I'll play with it this afternoon after work. The ECU was relocated to the pass footwell when one of the previous owners put a Series gas tank under the pass seat. I don't have the factory code reader either. I'll have to steal the one off of the Classic when I get home.

Where does it plug in? Is the connector behind the A/C unit on the firewall?

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Originally Posted by Rocketman View Post
Did the ECU throw any codes? Do you hear the fuel whine as try to start?
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  #4  
Old February 4th, 2011, 04:30 PM
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Hot dead is usually the ignition module. Is it still on the side of the distributor? It should be relocated to near the coil. Other possibility is a faulty silver relay. The ECU is in the factory location. Only 95s have them under the seat. Are you sure the code read is not behind the AC?
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Old February 4th, 2011, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Hot dead is usually the ignition module. Is it still on the side of the distributor?

Yes.

It should be relocated to near the coil. Do I need to buy a relocation kit or can I make one easy enough?

Other possibility is a faulty silver relay. The ECU is in the factory location. Only 95s have them under the seat.

Are you sure the code read is not behind the AC? Yup because it is at home in a box of extras I got from Byron.
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Old February 4th, 2011, 08:53 PM
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Question

[QUOTE=Rocketman;264513]Did the ECU throw any codes? NO

Do you hear the fuel whine as try to start? Relays kick on and off and "whine" present as well.[/QUOTE]

Thanks -

------ Follow up post added February 4th, 2011 05:58 PM ------

Drove it home tonight. When I was humming along again at 50-55MPH after it had warmed up it studdered again. Fearing I'd lose power/stall on an elevated roadway (viaduct) I got off of it and took the back way home never getting over 40MPH. No issues from there on out. I put some gas dryer and some Lucas fuel injector cleaner in the tank on the way home for good measure.

No codes show on the code readout box either.

Anyone know of a good source for a new, complete dizzy? I'd rather not pay $700.00 for one if I don't have to.

Thanks!
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  #7  
Old February 6th, 2011, 09:25 AM
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I had a stutter for a couple of years off and on, usually after getting warmed up in my 95 D-90. Sometimes it would throw the code for a failed TPS (Throttle position Sensor). Eventually it gave up and the truck would only idle. Luckily I had bought a spare when the first code had been thrown. That said, I would say 100% of the stutter events at highway speed did not result in a code being thrown. I only got the code on a cold start.

Since it sounds like you are getting fuel. I would also go through all of the ignition "equipment" check all of the connectors, open them up, clean them with some CRC Electromotive Spray--the slightest moisture in the connectors will cause the ignition system to crap out. Look into remounting the ignition module off of the dizzy, you'll need a kit because you'll have a "dummy module that mounts in place of the old one on the dizzy and then another setup to plug the relocated module into.

The connector for the ECU read out display should be in the same harness next to your ECU, there should also be an external test equipment plug there that is not normally used unless you have dealer test equipment.
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  #8  
Old February 6th, 2011, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Hot dead is usually the ignition module. Is it still on the side of the distributor? It should be relocated to near the coil.
Relocating the Ignition Module is such an old wives tale. But you should certainly replace the module with a known-good one and see if that improves things.
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  #9  
Old February 7th, 2011, 01:47 AM
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Wives tale or not, a new one will fix it leaving it where it is, but they last longer relocated than on the side of the coil. roverguy had a good price on new and used modules when I bought them. I am sure you could make a relocation kit, but IMHO you are better buying a used one as they are common on 91-95 RRC and DIs.

Also make sure there is no water in the computer or in the silver relays.

Ron
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  #10  
Old February 7th, 2011, 06:04 PM
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Thanks guys. Looks like I'll need a good used ign mod to test.

On a side note what's the best way to keep water off of those relays and the ECU? Since I can't get the seal to keep the water completely out between the window frame and the door top I always have a puddle on the floor on each side when it rains and I don't have it covered with a tarp. I'm afraid of that puddle spashing water up into this area as the drips hit it.

Also, I think we've narrowed it down but is there any reason to suspect a clogged fuel filter could be causing this issue? Both times it happened it was under load in fourth going about 50-55MPH. Reaching 3000 RPM in other gears doesn't seam to make it happen though which you'd think any load would if it was fuel filter related.

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  #11  
Old February 8th, 2011, 08:40 AM
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Moisture shouldn't hurt them, but a dunking will. ECU is in a gasket sealed enclosure.

If your fuel filter is clogged you'd be having a really bad day. Bucking, stalling, generally poor operation can almost always be traced to the ignition module. I suppose that if some smart cookie spent a few minutes forking around they'd figure out how to put a $20 GM module in there.
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  #12  
Old February 9th, 2011, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2yellowlabs View Post
Drove it home tonight. When I was humming along again at 50-55MPH after it had warmed up it studdered again. Fearing I'd lose power/stall on an elevated roadway (viaduct)
Thanks!
I can see virtually the entire length of the viaduct from my office window. If you get in a jam and need help, call me.
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  #13  
Old February 9th, 2011, 06:14 PM
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Thanks Garth!

I stopped by to see Gordn' at Lamorna Garage (indy L.R. mechanic/guru) last night and he replaced the bad vacuum advance, ign amp module, cap, rotor and reset the timing last night and she ran great on the way in this AM. The cap and rotor were probably fine but were aftermarket and I just prefer OEM parts for this sort of thing. Fingers crossed she gets me home tonight and this thing is licked.
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