Another Eberspacher/Webasto/Espar Thread - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old October 8th, 2007, 09:18 AM
aclarke's Avatar
aclarke
Status: Offline
Andrew Clarke
1986 110 CSW 200tdi
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Hamburg, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 222
Another Eberspacher/Webasto/Espar Thread

Hi. I've read up everything I can on these heaters but still have a couple questions. Maybe someone here has some insight.

With our firstborn child arriving this winter, I have decided to spend the money and put in an auxiliary heater in the truck. Just so you don't have to look at the sig, it's a 200tdi 110.

I was originally planning on putting in an air heater, either the Espar Airtronic D2 or the Webasto equivalent. However, I also like the idea of a "coolant heater" (sounds funny) for the added benefit of engine longevity.

I'd probably go with the coolant heater variety but for the problem that even when my engine does warm up as much as it's going to in the winter, the air coming out of my vents is pretty puny. There were days last winter when I pretty much couldn't drive my 110 due to condensation and subsequent freezing on the inside of the windshield. Idling the 200tdi in the winter doesn't warm it up at all, and if I can't see out the window I can't drive it.

I'm concerned that putting a coolant heater in the truck will give me toasty warm coolant but won't actually provide adequate heat inside the vehicle. I guess one option would be to put in a coolant heater and another heater core somewhere with another fan.

Have those of you who've gone the coolant heater route found that your new system provided enough heat to dry out the interior of the truck?

I've only had my 110 for one winter so far, and all I've done to the truck as far as winterproofing is buying a radiator muff (which helped a lot once the truck was moving) and removing the vent flap under the steering wheel. The problem with this mod was that while it now blows more air into the cabin, it seems like if anything now less air is blowing over the window which is where I really need it.

Also, with the coolant heater, I won't be getting any more air into the back of the vehicle which is where my baby will be, and where I also need more heat.

I guess my options are:

1. Diesel-powered air heater. I can duct the air anywhere I want, and get lots of hot air, but it won't do anything to protect my engine against cold starts.

2. Coolant heater by itself. It will protect my engine but seems like it will provide minimal auxiliary heating.

3. Coolant heater with secondary heater core and blower. Maybe the best option, but also the most complicated to install and the most costly.

Do I have this about right? I haven't tried cleaning out my heater core yet so maybe that will help. Taking the truck to a radiator shop and asking about it on my to-do list this week if I get around to it.


Thanks,
- Andrew.
__________________
1986 110 CSW 200tdi (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old October 8th, 2007, 10:32 AM
JimC's Avatar
JimC
Status: Offline
Jim Cheney
NAS 110 #145
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Posts: 7,154
Registry
Definitely clean out the heater core, and consider replacing it at the time. Its surprising how much they clog and they arent expensive enough to worry about.

I've never had a problem with air movement in the vehicle, the fan seems to blow plenty of air, my only problem was that the truck never warmed up enough until you were driving down the road (300tdi).

I have a (not installed) secondary heater core that was originally in Janey. It is some sort of after-market gizmo, but is almost the perfect size for behind the cubby box. It blew outrageous heat when installed. It would probably be easier to copy the design than to find another one.

Do you think your engine is heating up enough? Perhaps swap out a thermostat that opens at a slightly higher temperature?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old October 8th, 2007, 10:42 AM
aclarke's Avatar
aclarke
Status: Offline
Andrew Clarke
1986 110 CSW 200tdi
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Hamburg, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 222
Hi Jim, thanks a lot for your reply. My engine has trouble heating up enough in the winter, for sure. It will get up to the half way mark on the gauge if I drive at freeway speeds. Otherwise, driving a bit slower on side roads I usually start getting warm enough air through the vents and the gauge at the 1/4 mark after around 15 minutes of driving. This is with the radiator muff off. With it on it does warm up faster.

I will definitely get someone to look at the heater core. Maybe just looking after that will help a lot once the engine warms up, but it still won't help with defrosting my windscreen with cold coolant.

I actually have the thermostat completely out right now as I was a little concerned about overheating during a summer road trip. Is there any way to tell whether it's the higher or lower temperature version?

I also still have the viscous fan on the engine so I suppose that disconnecting that or replacing it with an electric fan would help. Those are all things that I will likely do in addition to putting in better heating, not instead of it.

- Andrew.
__________________
1986 110 CSW 200tdi (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old October 9th, 2007, 04:05 AM
JimC's Avatar
JimC
Status: Offline
Jim Cheney
NAS 110 #145
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Posts: 7,154
Registry
I'd start with a temp guage that is calibrated in degrees so you can read the actual temp. If the engine isnt warming up very much it cant be doing any favors for its logevity.

You can test a thermostat by immersing it in hot water and checking the temp at which it opens. I'm sure there must be a warm climate and cold climate version of the thermostat, and perhaps something would be available aftermarket in Canada since it tends to get cold there.

Also, the way to get the most airflow on the windscree is to make sure the footwell vents are closed - then the air has only one place to go.

There is also the heated windscreen option. A few bucks to spend, but cheaper than any of the heaters, plus you get perfect defrosting while you find a better solution for warming the air.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old October 9th, 2007, 07:15 AM
aclarke's Avatar
aclarke
Status: Offline
Andrew Clarke
1986 110 CSW 200tdi
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Hamburg, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 222
Testing the thermostat out the way you mentioned is a good idea. Apparently the stock one is 88 degrees for the 200tdi, and 82 for the 300tdi or something like that. Or maybe the other way around. Anyway, I was initially going to try to figure out which one I had before I spent the money, but then realized that for $15 it's just not worth my time.

I do plan on putting in a heated windscreen when my current one needs replacing, which it doesn't (unfortunately??). I put the question to Rovers North (who advertises them on their site) and to Rover Park Boys (my usual supplier) over the last couple days to see if they have them in stock so I might just do that as well right now.

The better temperature gauge was on my to-do list this summer but I have never done anything like that before so I guess it was easier to just put it off. I would like to do that at some point though.

On the subject of the footwell vents, I removed the vent hood from the driver's side vent last year which of course now brings less air to the windscreen, although more air overall into the cabin. I should try to find some sort of sliding mechanism whereby I can either have those completely open or closed as there's no way to do that with my controls. Actually I think my controls must be disconnected as sliding the lever up and down doesn't seem to redirect the air at all.

So another potential course of action is to:

- Buy a heated windscreen
- Clean/replace heater core
- Tune my diesel (apparently if it's out of tune it can produce too LITTLE heat and I need to replace my timing belt anyway)
- Put a radiator in for the back seat passengers.
- Put in a higher temperature thermostat
- Replace viscous fan with electric

Then if all that doesn't do enough, put in a coolant heater since I already have the extra radiator and blower in place.

Thanks again,
- Andrew.
__________________
1986 110 CSW 200tdi (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old October 11th, 2007, 04:47 AM
epninety's Avatar
epninety
Status: Offline
Dave Haynes
Ibex 240 2.8TGV
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Portsmouth, UK
Posts: 18
I've not tried fitting extra radiators in my truck - though I have considered it the Ibex is a bit small to find the space (shorter than a 90 and the winch is in the floor behind the cubby box!)
I have had a Webasto coolant heater installed for the last 4 years. This year I took a trip to northern Norway in early spring, so I took the precaution of temporarily installing an Eberspacher hot air heater for that trip.
So I have tried both heaters...

The coolant heater has two real advantages (over normal car setup) - the preheated coolant is good for your engine, and it also preheats the inside of the truck, defrosts the windscreen etc. That goes a long way to making the truck a more pleasant place to be. As you say though, if your existing cab heater can't get the truck warm enough, it won't be much better with a coolant heater. (it will be a bit better, as you preheat the cab without all though cold draughts you get when moving).

The hot air heater does a fantastic job of heating the cab in minutes, but doesn't help the engine at all. It does have the advantage that if you lose the head gasket/coolant pipe/etc. you won't freeze to death trying to sort it out. This was the main reason for fitting one for my Norway trip. I spent 4 hours parked on a mountain top just inside the arctic circle, in a blizzard, waiting for the road to open. Inside the Ibex, running the coolant heater we were 'comfortable' in polartec jackets. When we switched to the air heater , we were in T shirts and we had to turn it off occasionally .

For my normal circumstance - 50 mile night drives but temperature rarelt far below freezing (Southern UK), the coolant heater is (for me) still the right choice - even though the truck was a soft top for 3 years. If I lived somewhere where it regularly got much colder, I would probably go to an air heater.

My air heater will see service as a workshop heater this winter, and next year will probably replace the 'normal' dash heater entirely in my next vehicle build.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old October 11th, 2007, 11:11 AM
artm
Status: Offline
Arthur Maravelis
97 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Boston, MA USA
Posts: 985
1. I have an Eber coolant heater. As has been said, if you get minimal cabin heat now you will do slightly better from this. However, with its dedicated remote control it cannot be beat for convenience and warming up the motor. However, in all honesty, I think a better set of glow plugs and synthetic oil is all you need for safe cold starts - unless we're talking arctic conditions. I am convinced the stock plugs are inadequate - and I'm in Boston. Perhaps mine are old and shot but I do know tehre are better ones available (don't recall the name brand).

2. I also have an Eber cabin heater which I have not yet installed. I agree that this is a strong option for your climate. The only issue I may have is the noise. If you can mount it in the engine bay, or along a frame rail, that would solve that.

3. Find my other posts on my AC setup. I have a Euro AC setup that was somehow plumbed into the stock heater. With the stock heater control on and the AC blower on I get excellent flow and more heat. Enough to keep me happy. Yes, the Euro setup has two controls: one for fan and one for AC, operating independently.

4. I'm mentioned this before: remove the stock air intake (atop the fender) and feed a tube to the front of the engine bay. This eliminates the problems associated with this design: water, ice, debris clogging it up. For better heat, splice into this tube with an elbow and feed it back to the cabin. This gets you recirculated heat and quicker heatups. I'd prefer replacing the stock heater with some Toyota unit or something similarly small. You get a better system all around, especially if you feed the Toyota controls into the cabin. I love the Toyota Corolla 2001 setup: three round knobs controlling all functions and two pushbuttons for AC and recirculate. Simple, convenient and electric controls - no more stupid, ancient cables to fail.

I'll tell you: if I can fit that entire system in the 110 engine bay I would. Of course, some of the AC system would be in the cabin but it must be smaller than the stock Euro AC and I could use the extra legroom.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old October 11th, 2007, 11:39 AM
Overlander's Avatar
Overlander
Status: Offline
mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,531
Registry
Andrew,
would be a good idea as well to add those side view mirror electric heaters. easily sourced on ebay, and neither cabin air or coolant heaters are going to keep those side mirrors clear in winter conditions.

I would also pull the trigger on the heated windscreen now, no doubts. I would already have done it myself if i were in cold climate, but I'm in NC, and we only get 1-2 days of snow every few years. It does get cold here however , and I installed electric heated seats as a kit. it was easy and made a world of difference as a supplement to the aux heater. of course, doesn't help out your infant. I think one easy cheap solution is to get one of those small electric aux heaters, and mount it nearby the car seat where your infant will be.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old October 11th, 2007, 12:06 PM
aclarke's Avatar
aclarke
Status: Offline
Andrew Clarke
1986 110 CSW 200tdi
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Hamburg, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 222
Wow, always lots of good information, and almost too many options! Actually options are good. epninety, I appreciate your first-had experience with both types of heaters. Would you say that the eberspacher air heater would melt ice on the inside of the windshield?

Artm, do you want to sell me your Eberspacher cabin heater?

I don't have any troubles starting my engine no matter what the temperature, so the coolant heater is for the comfort and the engine longevity. I use 5w40 synthetic in the winter.

When you're talking about relocating the stock air intake, I presume you mean the intake for the cabin air, not the engine air intake. At first I couldn't figure out what the heck you were advocating!

Replacing the heating assembly with something out of a Toyota is an interesting proposition, but probably beyond my expertise and time constraints at the moment. Next time I'm talking with my resident "knows everything about vehicles" guy I'll see what he thinks. I don't have or particularly need A/C but do need better heating.

I am planning on getting those mirror stick-on heaters but just haven't gotten around to it. I have heated Saab seats in the trucks but haven't taken the time to figure out the heater switches. I need to do that soon.

I've looked into those electric heaters, like this one: http://www.autobarn.net/3000c.html . It puts out 1100BTU which I presume means BTU/hr. In contrast, in full blast the Eberspacher Airtronic D2 puts out something like 7500. I think that electric heater draws 20 amps so at 12V that's 240 watts, so not exactly a high powered heater. Because of this I figured it's probably not worth the time and effort.

I called the people at www.uroglas.com yesterday or the day before to get a quote on a heated windscreen shipped from England. I also called Rovers North and they have them in stock and also have a kit with all the wiring. The glass by itself is $475 and the kit is $650 or something like that. My numbers are off but that's the ballpark. I was considering getting in the truck and driving the 6 hours there to have them install one but they don't do installation. Therefore I have to add probably $150 onto that for shipping, duties, etc. That starts to get very expensive, so why not just get an Eberspacher heater that heats the truck AND (I imagine) cleans the windscreen.

- Andrew.
__________________
1986 110 CSW 200tdi (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old October 11th, 2007, 12:34 PM
LRNAD90's Avatar
LRNAD90
Status: Offline
Scott T
1995 Defender 90 ST
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,265
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by aclarke
Idling the 200tdi in the winter doesn't warm it up at all, and if I can't see out the window I can't drive it.
Thanks,
- Andrew.
Hey Andrew,

Sorry I am not answering your question directly, but have you considered a heated windshield to combat problems being able to safely see? They are a tad pricey, but I hear they work very well, and creating a circuit for it (if you don't already have one) shouldn't be too difficult. Just another thought for you. Oh, and congratulations on the little one!
__________________
~Scott T.
'95 D-90 ST - AA Yellow
"If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space!"


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old October 11th, 2007, 01:01 PM
artm
Status: Offline
Arthur Maravelis
97 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Boston, MA USA
Posts: 985
Quote:
Originally Posted by aclarke
Artm, do you want to sell me your Eberspacher cabin heater?
As long as my 110 remains a diesel I'd like to keep it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by aclarke
When you're talking about relocating the stock air intake, I presume you mean the intake for the cabin air, not the engine air intake.
Of course, the cabin air. But the engine intake would be better from the front, benefiting from ram effect.


Quote:
Originally Posted by aclarke
Replacing the heating assembly with something out of a Toyota is an interesting proposition, but probably beyond my expertise and time constraints at the moment. Next time I'm talking with my resident "knows everything about vehicles" guy I'll see what he thinks. I don't have or particularly need A/C but do need better heating.
Ask him about a unit with AC. I'd be curious to see if there's a really compact unit out there that will work. There must be.


Quote:
Originally Posted by aclarke
I am planning on getting those mirror stick-on heaters but just haven't gotten around to it. I have heated Saab seats in the trucks but haven't taken the time to figure out the heater switches. I need to do that soon.
I'd like to do that as well - as long as I can hide the wiring. I don't think you can entirely.


Quote:
Originally Posted by aclarke
I've looked into those electric heaters, like this one: http://www.autobarn.net/3000c.html . It puts out 1100BTU which I presume means BTU/hr. In contrast, in full blast the Eberspacher Airtronic D2 puts out something like 7500. I think that electric heater draws 20 amps so at 12V that's 240 watts, so not exactly a high powered heater. Because of this I figured it's probably not worth the time and effort.
Yes, those things are crap. I once left a ceramic heater, plugged into the house outlet, inside my D90 on a really, really cold night. The next day the heat inside was OK, not really toasty. And that was a 1000 watt one or more!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old October 11th, 2007, 05:05 PM
Stmpede's Avatar
Stmpede
Status: Offline
Andrew Najarian
'93 NAS D110 #43
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,459
Another advantage to the heated windscreen...

Maybe it is just my imagination, but in my exp. turning on the heated windscreen and rear defroster makes a considerable difference in time it takes for the vehicle to heat up in the winter. What I think is happening is that the glass normally radiates the outside temp and cools the air in the cabin, thus fighting the effects of the cabin heater. I know that it isn't my imagination that the vehicle definitely warms quicker and stays warmer by closing the snrf shade in my J**p. I think that the defrosters warm the glass and help prevent this temp. exchange that normally takes place. I can't say whether it makes much of a difference in maintaining heat since my heater is plenty strong and I don't need it on full blast, but it seems to make a dramatic difference in the speed with which the heater warms the inside. Plus, on long drives you can keep the windscreen clear without having hot air blowing off it and reflecting into your face!
__________________
"I have taken more good from alcohol than alcohol has taken from me." - Winston Churchill
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old October 11th, 2007, 05:46 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Online
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,248
Registry
First step is fix your heater or engine....

The heater should put out as much as any other vehicle. Make sure it is properly adjusted. Make sure you open up the vents to give better airflow. Make sure your thermostat is working.

I have a 200TDI and have no problems with heating the vehicle. Better insulation helps quite a bit. I would just pick up a second coolant heater for the rear. They are cheap and available anywhere (here in Canada).

From inside my truck one day....
http://members.shaw.ca/red90/Myheaterworks.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old October 11th, 2007, 06:52 PM
aclarke's Avatar
aclarke
Status: Offline
Andrew Clarke
1986 110 CSW 200tdi
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Hamburg, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 222
Your truck also probably stays warmer than mine because you insulated it, and I didn't get around to that this summer. I'm a bit of a procrastinator, I guess. Plus, it has a little less air volume to heat, being a 90. I'm sure that's the main problem ;-)

BTW that's a great site you have. I don't think I thanked you for it before, but I picked up from your site that Canadian Tire sells rebranded Exide Orbital batteries and I now have one in my truck as my auxiliary battery.

- Andrew.
__________________
1986 110 CSW 200tdi (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old October 11th, 2007, 07:56 PM
epninety's Avatar
epninety
Status: Offline
Dave Haynes
Ibex 240 2.8TGV
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Portsmouth, UK
Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by aclarke
epninety, I appreciate your first-had experience with both types of heaters. Would you say that the eberspacher air heater would melt ice on the inside of the windshield?
It will melt the glass if you let it

Well, not quite, but if you duct it toward the screen it will have no problems at all clearing the screen inside and out. At it's highest setting it will put out a fair blast of air, at a temp that is uncomfortable to keep your hand in front of.

We had four vehicles on our trip - my Ibex, a D-90, a Tomcat and a D-Lander (Freelander body on a Disco chassis). We went about 100km north of the Arctic Circle at Easter (we ran out of time to get further north). All had Eberspacher air heaters and all were comfortable and warm.

I don't know what it costs to buy an Airtop there, but mine cost UKP200 (US$400) secondhand on ebay. I was lucky - mine was perfect, but throw in a 25 service kit and you can resurrect an old tired unit easily enough. They start cutting out (due to overheating internally) when in need of a service. In the UK, they get fitted to new service vans for a national telecom company, then taken out when the vans are sold on when a few years old. Often they seem to have never been used.

Mine was set up as a temporary fit, bolted through a floor panel (easy to replace), running with a dip tube in a jerrycan in the back. Not the best long term, but an easy way to find out if it suits your needs. If you don't like it (you will) you can stick it back on ebay

If you buy second hand, make sure you get a 12V unit, diesel obviously, and make sure you get the fuel pump, and ideally exhaust and air intake pipes.

Dave
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old October 12th, 2007, 03:50 PM
aclarke's Avatar
aclarke
Status: Offline
Andrew Clarke
1986 110 CSW 200tdi
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Hamburg, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 222
OK, another question.

Does anybody know anything about electric recirculating coolant heaters? I know Kenlowe makes one for about 250. I just wonder if there are any available off the shelf in North America for less. I've looked around some but maybe I'm searching for the wrong terms or something. It's an interesting idea that seems to be a step up from a block heater but a step down from a diesel-powered recirculating coolant heater.

- Andrew.
__________________
1986 110 CSW 200tdi (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old October 12th, 2007, 04:28 PM
Retrofit's Avatar
Retrofit
Status: Offline
Pat
1984 110 CrewCab 200Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Quebec City, Canada
Posts: 474
Summit racing has those ...

Hi Andrew,

Glad to here from you again and congratulation on the baby.

And for the electric heater and circulator check at summit racing.

Good luck !

Pat
__________________
" You never, ever, ever go full retard ! "

Kirk Lazarus, Tropic Thunder


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
color="Red">CanadaOverland.com
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old October 12th, 2007, 10:40 PM
aclarke's Avatar
aclarke
Status: Offline
Andrew Clarke
1986 110 CSW 200tdi
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Hamburg, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 222
Hey Pat. Good to hear from you and thanks for chiming in. One day you're going to have to give me a chance to help you out with something!

I looked all over summitracing.com and couldn't find any electric heaters. Perhaps I'm searching for the wrong thing? They do have those Mojave heaters and other sorts too, that I'd put in if I was going the coolant heater route.

Thanks,
- Andrew.

Follow-up Post:

A company called "Kim Hotstart" makes a product that seems pretty interesting. It's a recirculating coolant heater, and they make a few different applications. One of them is at http://www.amazon.com/s/002-0703721-...KIM%20HOTSTART for US$109. It heats up to 120F and then turns off, and turns on again when the temperature gets down to 100F. They have another model that does 120-140 which seems like a better option.

That looks like a better product than a block heater, as it heats the coolant and recirculates it. It also has user-replaceable parts which is nice to see.

- Andrew.
__________________
1986 110 CSW 200tdi (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old October 15th, 2007, 02:51 PM
aclarke's Avatar
aclarke
Status: Offline
Andrew Clarke
1986 110 CSW 200tdi
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Hamburg, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 222
Hi again. I think I'm at least going to go with one of those Kim Hotstart recirculating coolant heaters. It's $108 plus shipping, and that will bring my coolant temperature up to spec. I'll also go for another heater core and blower in addition to the stock one, and will also replace/clean that one if necessary.

If all that doesn't do enough, I'll get a diesel-fired air heater and/or a heated windscreen.

Does anyone have experience with Kim Hotstart coolant heaters?

Thanks,
- Andrew.
__________________
1986 110 CSW 200tdi (
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
ac, webasto

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Temperature sender thread type/pitch? Neo Defender Technical Discussions 4 March 9th, 2006 02:40 PM
Transfer Case Lever Thread Size? ronward Defender Technical Discussions 4 August 30th, 2004 02:26 PM
Thread rating options chrisvonc Community News & Announcements 0 July 2nd, 2004 09:49 AM
Thread hijacking! TwisteD90 Misc. Chit-Chat 19 March 6th, 2004 03:23 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:05 PM.


Copyright