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  #1  
Old January 28th, 2011, 08:00 PM
orionpco
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larry burns
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anealling?

would 380 degres f. @ 1 hour effect the aluminum skin on defender body parts (fenders, doors, etc)?

according to several metalurgy web sites quote temps above 650 and not much info on time.

any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
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  #2  
Old January 28th, 2011, 08:32 PM
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Tom Rowe
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One method for annealing birmabright that has been work hardened is to coat it with oil and heat until the oil evaporates.
My guess is that if oil will evaporate after an hour at 380 then it would be annealed.
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  #3  
Old January 28th, 2011, 08:44 PM
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Tony Lawson
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http://www.profilesrhf.com/ecatalogu...LOY%205251.HTM

anneal at bottom of the page (Birmabright is roughly equal to 5251) is 350 celsius (660 F). only need to hit temp, no time requirement.
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  #4  
Old January 28th, 2011, 09:12 PM
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larry burns
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i guess i should have explained i want to powder coat (extremely zinc rich primer that also allows easy paint over) the body parts of my rover. and was very worried that at 380 degrees for one hour,( the coating requirement) would hurt or change the qualities of the panels.
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Old January 28th, 2011, 10:37 PM
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You will be fine. The only variable is the al is junk, so it could behave in an odd way.
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Old January 28th, 2011, 10:51 PM
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larry burns
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i have my eye on a really neat coating. i have had free run at a powder coating facility for roughly five months now. in that time frame i have learned alot and have enjoyed free powder coating of most if not all of the steel parts including my chassis wich is do to go to the galvanizers shop soon then in the oven for a fresh baked powder coating. but back to that coating, its really tough, uv and chem resistant most of all its free. my only worry was the heat effecting the aluminum in an undesirable way. so thank for the input and keep it coming.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orionpco View Post
i have my eye on a really neat coating. i have had free run at a powder coating facility for roughly five months now. in that time frame i have learned alot and have enjoyed free powder coating of most if not all of the steel parts including my chassis wich is do to go to the galvanizers shop soon then in the oven for a fresh baked powder coating. but back to that coating, its really tough, uv and chem resistant most of all its free. my only worry was the heat effecting the aluminum in an undesirable way. so thank for the input and keep it coming.
I PC .060 al all the time. This rig is all PC minus the hood. You will be ok.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 12:26 AM
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thanks.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 09:20 AM
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A bigger concern is the seam sealers used on a lot of the bulkhead, seatbox etc. No issue powder coating the aluminum.
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Old January 31st, 2011, 08:15 AM
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You guys seem to really like PC and obviously you must have good experience with it. I have been very disapointed with a lot of the Powder Coated parts that I have. Seems that after a period of time some of it starts to de-laminate. I'm curious, what in your opinion(s) is the critical step to keep this from happening and how can one tell if a coating shop is doing it right?
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Old January 31st, 2011, 02:08 PM
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In wet salty zub zero climates anything PC needs to be Zinc coated first.. It promotes adhesion and provides a primary corrosion barrier, Its an extra charge but worth it... Almost all the PC i had done on my 90 in San Diego i had to get redone in NH because of cracking and peeling... Also preparation is even a bigger concern... If you want it to last find a shop that does Hot Rods, Harley's and other high dollar items... IMO stay away form the industrial volume shops...

In other words you get what you pay for
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Old January 31st, 2011, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90DRC View Post
In wet salty zub zero climates anything PC needs to be Zinc coated first.. It promotes adhesion and provides a primary corrosion barrier, Its an extra charge but worth it... Almost all the PC i had done on my 90 in San Diego i had to get redone in NH because of cracking and peeling... Also preparation is even a bigger concern... If you want it to last find a shop that does Hot Rods, Harley's and other high dollar items... IMO stay away form the industrial volume shops...

In other words you get what you pay for
I don't think I have had anything done at a "high Volume" shop, but what steps are you saying are omitted or done incorrectly in the PC process bby these types of shops?
I have noticed that the areas that seem to hold up best are tubing. The areas that seem most prone to de-lamination are transitional or verticle to horizontal. Also weld fillets seem prone to failure.
I guess what I am after is trying to understand if there is a specific step in the powder coating process or a specific ingredient that is the Achilles Heel, so to say. Or is it just the choice of zinc plating first the issue?
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Old January 31st, 2011, 03:53 PM
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I don't zinc coat my stuff here in Texas, but the part has to be media blasted and free of rust. If it is scratched down to metal - and rust starts - it will blister up eventually. I normally just dab some paint on any scratches and I really do not have issues with the PC. And I've been using this one shop for 18 years - they do mostly lawn furniture.
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Old January 31st, 2011, 08:59 PM
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surface prep, surface prep, surface prep and then right product or products. i have seen it where i have access to. it looked like a possible venture for me, so i gained access to the process from the ground up. even have performed several hours of coating and prep. and can tell you prep is the most neglected step i have seen. it costs extra but the difference is amazing. i am not as knowledgible as others, but i have paid careful attention to the process while i was entertaining the idea of making an offer to purchase the rights to the facility. if i were to proceed in that direction the first set of knowledge skills i would increase would be a higher understanding of metalurgy and surface prep.
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Old January 31st, 2011, 11:44 PM
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The shop I use has pc come out better than paint for a fraction of the cost. I would do the whole car if I could. Sand blasting is key. But .060 is too thin to do that so the metal has to be perfect.
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Old February 1st, 2011, 12:03 AM
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im thinking about soda blasting it. any thoughts??
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  #17  
Old February 1st, 2011, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
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im thinking about soda blasting it. any thoughts??
How thick are the al skins? What are you going to do about all the joint filler? Is there no bondo or filler at all on the car and are you sure?
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Old February 1st, 2011, 12:15 AM
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the only original part is the tub.(series 2a) the rest is nto, new or nos. just to be clear it is a series hybrid.
the tub doesnt have any fillers as far as dents go, not sure about rivet areas. the doors are roll -up, td5 bulkhead, defender truck top, dont have a complete front end yet but should also be new. hoping all these parts can be prepped and coated.
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  #19  
Old February 1st, 2011, 12:15 AM
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Buck - don't want to go too off topic but did you have your axle housings PC'd? I've posted before on my rear Toy conversion and have a sandblasted housing ready to go. A local PC place has done good work for me in the past but many people on this board have said don't PC an axle housing due to the abuse. Figured you'd have some experience with abusing axles, haha
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Old February 1st, 2011, 12:26 AM
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i think its more of a monetary and repair concern. paint is less expensive and easy to touch up after a weekend of off roading. powder would require more expense and time. even though you could color match some spray paint to touch up those type of components. there is practically a color matched areosol spray paint to match all basic pc colors. honestly pc is easier then painting in some cases.
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