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  #1  
Old August 8th, 2012, 08:50 AM
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An easy alternative to sandblasting steel

Three words: Burn It Off.

Commercial fabrication facilities don't even bother with media blasting. What they do is have something called a "burn-off oven", which is basically an industrial version of Nebuchadnezzer's furnace.

Have a bumper or a spare rack that you need stripped? Don't bother paying a guy with a sandblaster $50-100 to strip it for you. Using an acetylene torch or MAPP gas to burn the old finish off.

If you have the space, create a fire pit large enough to hold your object and light a bonfire. Heap your parts on top of it and let it roast until the old finish disappears. Do not exceed 900 degrees.

This technique is not recommended for heat-treated steel alloys or aluminum. Use only on mild steel and at your own risk.
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  #2  
Old August 8th, 2012, 08:59 AM
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Marc-Andre Leger
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steel wheels

I got 5 steel wheels from a local guy for a really good price (he was getting rid of overstock). They are still military green. I used steel paint stopper, but there is still a little paint left on some.

Would this work to finish them off ?

I'm all setup to repaint them myself, as I have a few paint guns and had paint colour matched to my truck. I'm just having some difficulty getting all the old paint off...
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Old August 8th, 2012, 09:05 AM
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Best results I have had is chemical dip. Completely removes every bit of paint but does not affect the metal. Literally makes the part look brand new. Great when you have thin aluminum rover panels that you don't want additional wear on.
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Old August 8th, 2012, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maleger View Post
I got 5 steel wheels from a local guy for a really good price (he was getting rid of overstock). They are still military green. I used steel paint stopper, but there is still a little paint left on some.

Would this work to finish them off ?
The danger here is that too much heat will warp the steel. I would not use this technique on wheels.
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  #5  
Old August 8th, 2012, 10:08 AM
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You'll burn thru far more than $50 worth of MAPP doing 5 wheels.

There are a few water based home brew methods. I like using a highly concentrated Lye solution with a little simple green mixed in. Strips off paint pretty good but takes a while. Won't touch powder coat or epoxy. With a battery charger attached to the metal and an anode like a chunk of scrap steel, it will also remove rust.

Muriatic acid will strip both paint and rust, but is so vile you must wear a mask and use it outdoors. I dilute it 2:1, and it will strip anything of paint and rust overnight.

Phosphoric acid will strip rust, but you have to watch it cz it can form crystals that are a PITA to remove.

all of these are environmentally friendly and can go down the drain.

For huge lots, commercial chemical stripping is the best, as it gets into boxed in and sandwiched areas.

For heat stripping paint, a heat gun is safer and gets plenty hot.
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  #6  
Old August 8th, 2012, 10:13 AM
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Kang, I watched you lay in my driveway for several hours with that torch and there didn't seem to be anything "easy" about it! Now i know you were burning off seam sealer, not paint but still!
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Old August 8th, 2012, 10:26 AM
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Marc-Andre Leger
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I'll try with the heat gun, I have a nearly new one that I never use... it was on sale at Canadian Tire.
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Old August 8th, 2012, 10:47 AM
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What kind of shop does these chemical dips and does it have any affect on galvenized pieces? I would assume not, but....
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  #9  
Old August 8th, 2012, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefhuf View Post
Kang, I watched you lay in my driveway for several hours with that torch and there didn't seem to be anything "easy" about it! Now i know you were burning off seam sealer, not paint but still!
It was the seam sealer and the waxoyl that took the most time - the paint burns off in seconds!

Sure it took time, but I shudder to think about how much additional time it would have taken without the torch!
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