amps drawn while truck is off - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 24th, 2009, 11:30 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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amps drawn while truck is off

Does anyone have a diagram or info on what fuses/components draw amps while the truck is turned off?

If you have the normal amp amount numbers too that would be very helpful!
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  #2  
Old June 25th, 2009, 12:40 AM
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It's one of your 10 offroad lights I bet you.
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  #3  
Old June 25th, 2009, 12:42 AM
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Usually it is the radio or the door chimer.
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  #4  
Old June 25th, 2009, 02:12 AM
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Daniel Marcello
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yeah I was reading up and looks like it could be the door chimer. i rewired my radio too because the ACC was mixed up with the constant power line. I will check the door chimer draw.
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  #5  
Old June 25th, 2009, 12:10 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Long shot, but put your ear to your alternator when the truck is off. If you hear a whine, it's drawing power. This happened to me with a rebuild and after replacing it, my draw was gone.
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Old June 25th, 2009, 12:49 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Long shot, but put your ear to your alternator when the truck is off. If you hear a whine, it's drawing power. This happened to me with a rebuild and after replacing it, my draw was gone.
I think that was the problem. Even after running the truck for an hour or 2 and letting it sit for 20 minutes it could not start. no juice. so I thought my alternator was either not supplying power to the battery, or sucking power from the battery. so i replaced that and put a new Odyssey battery in. Now I just want to make sure it was the alt and not something else drawing power as it sat.
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Old July 5th, 2009, 03:52 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Daniel, how dd this turn out? I replaced my alternator (aftermarket from advance auto) and thought my problem was solved after sitting about a week and not having a starting issue. Since then my problem has returned although sometimes it can be as little overnight to discharge the battery. It happened overnight so I hooked up my multi-meter and I have a 3 amp draw (I pulled all fuses and no change in the draw). I popped the hood and the alternator is warm to the touch (everything else cold) although no hum on this one.

Having a hard time believing i got another bad alternator, but it's not like you can miss-wire them or something.
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Old July 6th, 2009, 08:02 PM
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mark bohne
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My D90 1995 had a master cutoff switch right between your legs on battery box wall--if i do not turn off every time it will draw down to 0 volts---so I pulled off all 7 leads and each one showed 12 volts when testing between the neg terminal and each single lead.
I have every wire on cutoff so my truck reboots computer each time it starts. I think i am doing the test wrong? Any ideas? The cut off is on the negative side-
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  #9  
Old July 6th, 2009, 08:11 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I'm having a bit of trouble understanding your setup, but here is how you can measure the draw. Disconnect the positive terminal and put your multi-meter in series between the positive cable and the battery. So this means connect the positive terminal of the multi-meter to the positive terminal of the battery. Connect the negative terminal of the multi-meter to the postive cable. Make sure your multi-meter is setup for measuring amps (and you have the leads connected to the right posts, as some have a different post for measuring amps than voltage). Start with a high amperage and then lower it. Mine has a 10 amp setting which I used.

When you have this setup you should show a draw (a small amount like 0.03 is normal). If you turn your cutoff switch off you should not see any draw if things are wired properly.

I have a cutoff switch to install, I just don't want to make this a permanent thing to do. I think the ECU benefits from uninterrupted operation.

hth
charles
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  #10  
Old July 6th, 2009, 08:26 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Daniel, how dd this turn out? I replaced my alternator (aftermarket from advance auto) and thought my problem was solved after sitting about a week and not having a starting issue. Since then my problem has returned although sometimes it can be as little overnight to discharge the battery. It happened overnight so I hooked up my multi-meter and I have a 3 amp draw (I pulled all fuses and no change in the draw). I popped the hood and the alternator is warm to the touch (everything else cold) although no hum on this one.

Having a hard time believing i got another bad alternator, but it's not like you can miss-wire them or something.
I have so many damn problems with my truck right now its not even funny! New alt didn't fix it. battery still drains. so i have become accustomed to taking off the lead after i drive it. I burned out my wire to my start solinoid which in turn somehow burner out my ignition? so now i have this ghetto ass wiring system going around the cab with a two push button to start the engine! http://danielmarcello.com/IMG_0027.MOV

And ontop of that i am missing coolant and i hope its not a head gasket. right now... its a expensive paperweight.
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  #11  
Old July 6th, 2009, 08:49 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Sorry to laugh, but thats too funny.

I was talking to a friend this weekend whom I honestly didn't think knew anything about rovers and mentioned the electrics on these things were suspect. He immediately blurted "LUCAS" which I wasn't expecting. It turns out a friend of his had an old jag once, which was plagued with electrical problems. ROFL
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  #12  
Old July 6th, 2009, 09:06 PM
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Daniel,

Check the water pump for a coolant leak out of the drip hole. Get to the root of the problems and sort them out and the domino effect of additional failures stops.

Ron
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Old July 6th, 2009, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Daniel,

Check the water pump for a coolant leak out of the drip hole. Get to the root of the problems and sort them out and the domino effect of additional failures stops.

Ron
oh I have been going though the usual checks over the last 3 months. took the water pump out and it was fine, tried 2 visc fans, new recored radiator too. i do spot some coolant on my starter motor, so i hope its just one of the heater hoses has a crack in it or something. Im going to pressure test the system this weekend and see. also do a compression test on the cylinders.

The one thing I do notice which is very inconsistent is some white smoke at start up. this happen like 4 times. smells like brown sugar. Also noticed my expansion tank is completely full, yet i open the cap to the radiator and im missing like 2 liters.

All I know is I am badass at swapping starter motors. since my wire short i swapped between 2 starters 4, 5, 6 times thinking it was the starter. I got so good at it that I timed myself this weekend and I hit 5 minutes flat. its all about the upper allen bolt and how you get in in and out.
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  #14  
Old July 6th, 2009, 09:23 PM
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Check the seal at the back of the intake. It is a metal (silver) slightly curved retainer thing with a single small bolt in it. You can snug down the bolt a little bit in situ if it is leaking.

If you clean it out back there you can see if it is the head or the intake. Either way, better to do it while it is warm out than the middle of winter.
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Old July 6th, 2009, 10:10 PM
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Thanks Charles--
I will check the amp pull soon---we have a few other old vehicles and the cut off works good for winter storage and a cheap security device. I think this was installed for if you flipped it when off road you could minimize the fire hazard---?
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  #16  
Old July 7th, 2009, 08:34 AM
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Yes this is the reason for cutoffs on racing cars too. But, unless you wire it up correctly it doesn't stop the vehicle running (if turned off while already running) because the alternator keeps providing power.
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  #17  
Old July 7th, 2009, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Yes this is the reason for cutoffs on racing cars too. But, unless you wire it up correctly it doesn't stop the vehicle running (if turned off while already running) because the alternator keeps providing power.
They sell them that tie into the alternator too to kill the whole car. This is what is used now in pretty much everything.

Ron
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  #18  
Old July 7th, 2009, 10:54 AM
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I'm pretty sure any switch can do it - it's just a wiring/routing issue. So you need to put the switch on the positive side, and instead of the alternator output running directly to the starter, you run it to the battery side of the switched connections. That way when the switch is turned off, the vehicle is truly isolated from the power and she'll die. When the switch is on, the battery is charged as usual.
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  #19  
Old July 8th, 2009, 09:09 PM
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BTW, have you replaced the either the fuel pump relay or the EFI relay next to it lately? If so, did you use aftermarket or Bosch? I have read a few threads about non-Bosch relays draining the battery rather quickly.
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  #20  
Old July 8th, 2009, 09:40 PM
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I replaced those last year with Bosch relays I think
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