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  #41  
Old June 15th, 2011, 10:50 AM
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So getting a 200 amp alternator would be bad?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #42  
Old June 15th, 2011, 10:52 AM
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Wiring from the alternator might need to be upgraded to handle the extra juice?
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  #43  
Old June 15th, 2011, 10:56 AM
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Barry you do not need a 200 AMP alt if you have a winch bumper with no winch.
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  #44  
Old June 15th, 2011, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Lower amps = dimmer headlights = I do not see the deer down the road = I die
Only if you are drawing more current than is being produced by the alternator, otherwise that extra output is only a draw on the engine. It all has to do with load and supply, too little is bad and too much is just waste. That's why there are different outputs available and why an oem alternator is sized as it is.
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  #45  
Old June 15th, 2011, 11:37 AM
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What level of excess load on the engine are we talking here and loss in fuel economy on a 40% increase in amps over stock (stock was 85-100)? The Mean Green alternator, MG1375 is a High Output 220 AMP alternator for example. Dependable (so I've read) but excess to my needs.

-85 amps resulted in significant loss of power, lights, etc. when winch was being used.

------ Follow up post added June 15th, 2011 11:38 AM ------

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Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
Only if you are drawing more current than is being produced by the alternator
Yeah, I was kidding there. My lights went yellow when my alternator started to go. Only other time was under the load of the winch.
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  #46  
Old June 15th, 2011, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
Only if you are drawing more current than is being produced by the alternator, otherwise that extra output is only a draw on the engine. It all has to do with load and supply, too little is bad and too much is just waste. That's why there are different outputs available and why an oem alternator is sized as it is.
I'm pretty sure these are max output ratings we're talking about. Right? If so, it's not putting the load of producing 200 amps on the engine all the time. Only when asked of it.
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  #47  
Old June 15th, 2011, 12:07 PM
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Theoretically, you are correct. However, there are many conditions that will cause the alternator to produce a greater output. Ideally, you want to size an alternator to the load requirements and the operating rpm of the engine. It's like the fuel system, it would make no sense to put in a fuel pump that can supply 30psi of pressure if you only need 10psi.
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  #48  
Old June 15th, 2011, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
Wiring from the alternator might need to be upgraded to handle the extra juice?
Assuming no additional equipment, no. The truck is not going to draw more amps just because the alternator is capable of producing them.

When you add additional equipment, the circuit for each accessory needs to be sized for the load the accessory will draw. If you put the accessory downstream of the vehicle fuse box, you might need to upsize some wiring in the stock harness. And since that's a pain in the ass, don't wire your accessories off the vehicle fuse box -- create extra circuits with their own supply.
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  #49  
Old June 15th, 2011, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Barry you do not need a 200 AMP alt if you have a winch bumper with no winch.

Need has nothing to do with it. I do have a winch bumper but you can't make fun of me having no winch as the bumper isn't on the truck.
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  #50  
Old June 15th, 2011, 02:15 PM
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Thanks to Barry I have a Winch Bumper and no winch.
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  #51  
Old June 15th, 2011, 02:19 PM
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This is true. I am going to get a 500 amp alternator. My LED dash lights need extra juice.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #52  
Old June 15th, 2011, 09:17 PM
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Alternator options

Little too late to this thread, Josh, but Pendy gave this website as a good alternative: http://www.AlternatorParts.com/#Import
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  #53  
Old June 17th, 2011, 04:01 PM
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Installed. Well, pretty much. Biggest pain was that the bottom mount housing of the alternator was too snug to even move onto/around/over the alternator mounting bracket that is attached to the car, so I had to shave off a little bit with a file. Still really snug on there, so it didn't move around there very freely, making it difficult to get the two to line up so that I could drive the long bolt through everything at the bottom. It's on now. Had to relocate my horns as this has the external blades on it (didn't know that would be the case).
Anyway, here's where your help comes in. I have three wires that go to the alternator from the Defender; battery, tach, and ignition. I'm assuming the skinny yellow wire is the tach, an the slightly thicker one (grey/purple/white stripe?) is the ignition wire?
Something else interesting is that instead of screwing the defender wires into the back of this alternator to snug, you actually tie their wires (brownish/redish wire with red line is ignition, brownish/redish wire with white stripe is tach) in with our Defender tach and ignition wires. What is the best practice for this? Do they need to be soldered together you think?
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  #54  
Old June 17th, 2011, 04:10 PM
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I bought that same unit from Action Alternators in Utah through Will T. a few years ago, the 140 amp version. I just used quick connects so that it would be easy to replace, etc. in the future. I haven't had any issues.
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  #55  
Old June 17th, 2011, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gore Ranger
I bought that same unit from Action Alternators in Utah through Will T. a few years ago, the 140 amp version. I just used quick connects so that it would be easy to replace, etc. in the future. I haven't had any issues.
Awesome. So which wires from the truck are the ignition and tach?
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  #56  
Old June 17th, 2011, 04:49 PM
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Also note that the resistance to rotation of an alternator is proportional to the load. If you short circuit the alternator, it will be very difficult for the engine to rotate. So even if you have a 1.2gigawatt alternator on your 2.5d, it won't cause any more load on your motor than a 65W alternator at the same load.
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  #57  
Old June 17th, 2011, 06:55 PM
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I figured out the wires...my assumption was backwards earlier. The Yellow wire from the Defender is actually D+ or ignition, which went to the Action Alternator brownish/redish wire with red line on it, while the Defender grey/Purple with white stripe wire is W or tach, which went to the Action Alt brownish/redish with white line on it.

I'm going to tighten up the belt a little more in the morning, as the belt is a little too loose right now and squeaks loudly every 20 seconds or so.
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  #58  
Old June 17th, 2011, 07:02 PM
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color coding is retarded

good luck tightening a belt. you really mean....you are going to put more tension on the belt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
I figured out the wires...my assumption was backwards earlier. The Yellow wire from the Defender is actually D+ or ignition, which went to the Action Alternator brownish/redish wire with red line on it, while the Defender grey/Purple with white stripe wire is W or tach, which went to the Action Alt briwnish/redish with while line on it.

I'm going to tighten up the belt a little more in the morning, as the belt is a little too loose right now and squeaks loudly every 20 seconds or so.
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  #59  
Old June 17th, 2011, 07:12 PM
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haha yes that's exactly what I meant.
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  #60  
Old June 17th, 2011, 07:18 PM
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partial hijack: anyone know where to find brush holder for the D2 Valeo alt ?
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