Alarm, tint, stereo, auto locks, sound deadener. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 11:52 PM
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Rich
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Alarm, tint, stereo, auto locks, sound deadener.

I'll try and keep this short and break it down for easier comments.

Alarm.
Looking at getting one with an autostart and add locks with a microwave sensor for when the tops off. Looking at a Viper. Anyone suggest what lock actuators they use? Looking at both doors and the gate. I have slim line panels so this might be touchy.

Tint.
Looking at dark in the back (fiberglass top) and then the lightest on the slider windows so when I have no top or the soft top is on it doesn't look awkward. Hopefully, this will keep the truck a bit cooler and be a first line of defense as I travel a lot and keep bikes, dive gear, and jump gear regularly in my vehicles.

Stereo,
Got this setup. Drop in alpine with bluetooth and ipod connector and kickers in the doors and back panels. Amp and sub...maybe not sure yet.

Locks,
See alarm.

Sound deadener.
I know I won't get this setup like my SC but I would like to take the edge off. I have looked at linexing the inside tub. Also, looked at a spray on deadener on the tub and the fiberglass top, and under both seats. Anyone done this? Any suggestions? I am just trying to get the wind noise down a bit.

Thanks for all the tips and I keep reading and learning.

...Rich
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  #2  
Old January 23rd, 2012, 12:53 AM
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ed angel
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I dont think there is a clean way to put door lock actuators in ST doors. There isnt a rod or lever to hook one to, im sure it could be done but not a simple plug and play.
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  #3  
Old January 23rd, 2012, 01:15 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Stay clear of Viper. I installed one after a break-in and it has never worked correctly. Recently it stopped working all together. Horrible product and non-existent customer service. From what I have been told alarms don't play nice with the Defender electrical system.

I also tinted the windows after my break in and I couldn't be happier. I think I have very dark (15%) in the rear and 35% IN the front which is the legal limit in OR. It's great for sun protection and privacy and I still can see remarkably well out of the rear windows when I drive. I will always tint from now on.

Search this forum, there are plenty of threads discussion sound insulation, pros/cons of Line-x, Dynamat, etc
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  #4  
Old January 23rd, 2012, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Stay clear of Viper. I installed one after a break-in and it has never worked correctly. Recently it stopped working all together. Horrible product and non-existent customer service. From what I have been told alarms don't play nice with the Defender electrical system.
That's interesting - I've used Viper systems for 10+ years and have had zero issues. A Viper 790XV installed in my Tundra around 2004 with remote start, window control, etc. still works perfectly. I've been meaning to talk to Jonah at Boston Mobile Concepts about an alarm, so I'll shoot him an email and let y'all know what he says.
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  #5  
Old January 23rd, 2012, 10:29 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Let me know what you find out. I would love to have it work properly but at this point I am considering uninstalling it. Possibly the reason that it works well is that its in a Toyota not a Defender
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  #6  
Old January 23rd, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Even with an alarm, will anyone pay attention to it anymore? I had a clifford alarm in my truck for the first few years... But, it died around 2004/5, it started going off while I was driving down the street.

I think you would be better off figuring out a way that you could lock your gear in the back of your truck. Maybe build/fab a removable cage/basket , install some strategic eye-bolts and find a good cable to slow down or deter a thief.

Maybe some of the expedition guys can chime in.
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spook View Post
Sound deadener.
I know I won't get this setup like my SC but I would like to take the edge off. I have looked at linexing the inside tub. Also, looked at a spray on deadener on the tub and the fiberglass top, and under both seats. Anyone done this? Any suggestions? I am just trying to get the wind noise down a bit.
IMHO Line-X is not a wind noise reducer. Then there's the part about removal.

In my experience, 1" to 2" thick closed-cell acoustic polyurethane foam is the right way to go. This stuff comes in 48" wide rolls and is cheaper than Line-X. It comes in adhesive-backed and non-adhesive backed versions, as well as fiberglass and/or aluminum reinforced. When I've used it in vehicles, I have cut 1/8" particleboard to the shape of the panel to cover, then adhered adhesive-backed 1" thick foam to both sides of the particleboard.

You have to watch out about adhering the stuff directly to metal. This is because it stick very, very, very well to the substrate. Best to go without adhesive unless you're double-walling like I do.

There is a heavyweight mass-loaded vinyl, but unless you're trying to get rid of low frequency noise, the foam is a much lighter and cheaper solution.

The following supplier website has good noise reduction vs frequency for a variety of possible solutions.

http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/
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  #8  
Old January 23rd, 2012, 12:21 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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No but it's a deterrent just like a yard sign. They'll just move on to the next one. Mine is a two-way alarm so if it goes off my key fob goes off.

Another great deterrent is a metal dog guard. Makes it more challenging to get in the rear.

I just removed my seats as I plan to install a G4 stowage cage along with Mantec interior window guards.
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  #9  
Old January 23rd, 2012, 03:04 PM
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ed angel
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All great ideas for security, but a wise man once told me "my grandfather" locks only keep the honest people out.

The best solution is out of site out of mind, the security box in the rear is the best bet. Keep the eye candy to a min. and you shouldnt have a problem.
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94 D90 ST R380 constine green stock
85 D110 3.5 3 DR
67 NADA diesel tremec 4spd salisbury rear springs on front and a LOT MORE TO GO.

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  #10  
Old January 23rd, 2012, 03:09 PM
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See if you guys were driving a soft top, you wouldn't be worrying about locked doors and such. We have to keep the doors unlocked to help prevent people from slicing the top.

x2 on the out of site and out of mind.
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  #11  
Old January 23rd, 2012, 03:10 PM
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Dog guards around the cage as sold by Raingler will make it harder for a would-be burglar to just reach in and take stuff. I've noticed they also keep stuff from flying out of the back of my truck on the highway.
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  #12  
Old January 23rd, 2012, 03:13 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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They make some really sweet slide out security boxes that lock and open out he back with the tail gate open/down so if you lock the TG it is double security. They are expensive but with the toys your hauling around its crazy not to secure it. With a little skill and the right tools you could build a pretty good one on your own.
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