Air Vent Lever Control - hi/low - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 6th, 2006, 03:09 PM
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Air Vent Lever Control - hi/low

Hi,

Winter is coming! I just moved my air vent handle (left of steering wheel- NOT the front vent flap controls) to the lower position to get some warm air to my feet. No air flowed out of the lower vent.

The same thing happened to me last year. I took apart the cover over the two air lever controls last year and found that the lever is connected to a cable. The cable passed through a screw down area that should have held the handle so that the vent lever would actually pull the cable. In my case the cable was just slipping through, so that cable would never adjust the flap to the floor.

Last year i got some thick electrical tape and wrapped it arround the cable, and then screwed the connection to the cable over where the electrical tape was. This worked..............for a while I guess.

This probably makes no sense to most people - but to those that have had the cover off the controls, it might.

I am planning to take things back apart soon - before it gets real cold. What have other people done, who have had this problem? Thanks!

Flagg
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  #2  
Old November 6th, 2006, 04:04 PM
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John B.
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Buy a new cable.
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  #3  
Old November 6th, 2006, 04:20 PM
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It is not the cable that is broken..........I guess my decription is making no sense. I will try to remember to take some pictures when I get it apart.........

Thanks,

Flagg
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  #4  
Old November 6th, 2006, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
Buy a new cable.
You might not say that if you knew what a royal PITA it is to change out that cable.
Do everything you can to try and make it work as changing the blend cable in a NAS 90 is no fun at all. The other cables (temp and heater flap control) are easy to swap... the blend one means you basically gut the entire dash.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flagg
It is not the cable that is broken..........I guess my decription is making no sense. I will try to remember to take some pictures when I get it apart.........

Thanks,

Flagg
If the clamp with the 8mm head is slipping then you can try and bend the ears that go through the control to get a better bite on the cable. Over time the cables case compresses and can slip, especially if the cable has never been lubed and is real stiff.
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  #5  
Old November 6th, 2006, 04:25 PM
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Some of the cables run a long the firewall. I say just hit it with some PB Blaster and work it, should loosen up a bit. Tighten down on the able a little more or crimp it so it wont slip. Just needs some lubrication to get things moving, based on your description. I have had some issues and used the PB blaster and when that shit went away I used some tri-flow and that seems to have kept things moving smoothly. My lever all work well.
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  #6  
Old November 6th, 2006, 04:32 PM
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Ok, so mine work fine - touch wood - but what should we lube them with so we don't have Flagg's problem? Motorbike cable type suplies?

KAA
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  #7  
Old November 6th, 2006, 04:33 PM
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We just use white lithium grease and they are one finger smooth. Bike cable stuff would work well too.
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  #8  
Old November 6th, 2006, 04:35 PM
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And you get this stuff down into the cable / sheath, how ???
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  #9  
Old November 6th, 2006, 04:44 PM
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I like the White Lighting chain lube. PB Blaster is good shit too its got the "caplilary action" I dont guess it really qualifies as lube but it works wonders.
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  #10  
Old November 6th, 2006, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Armstrong
And you get this stuff down into the cable / sheath, how ???
We usually do it on new cables when we are replacing siezed ones.
In a lot of cases you can just do the ends of the cables and have smooth movement.
Or you can remove the center cable from the cable sheath, lube it and slide it back into the sheath. This can get tricky if the cable is beat up though. In most cases lubing the ends and working them to get some lube a little ways in will do the trick.
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  #11  
Old November 6th, 2006, 07:16 PM
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Jim Cheney
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The lever you are using actuates a set of flappers connected by a rod in the lower dash. That little cable is actually moving a lot of material and the far end of the cable is press-fitted into a metal panel right beneath the dash's plastic tray. This pulls out first when part of the system gets stuck and you apply force, a problem exacerbated by the tendency of the selfsame metal panel to rust out. Mike is right, it requires disassembling the dash down to the tray to fix, but you can actuate the flapper doors manually by sticking your finger through the lower dash vent. Thats a good interim fix.
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  #12  
Old November 6th, 2006, 10:54 PM
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Jim,

That IS a good interim fix! I will try that first. If that works, it may solve my problem for the winter.............will manualling adjusting the lower flapper door under the steering wheel also work for the passenger side? The two sides must be linked together for them to work by one lever.......

I have the circular vent that points toward the passengers knees........

I will report back after I try this.............

Flagg
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  #13  
Old November 6th, 2006, 11:09 PM
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Jim Cheney
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The vents are connected by a single operating rod, so they work together. I actually do that little maneuver all the time to keep my cable from pulling out of the dash panel again. Good luck!
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  #14  
Old November 7th, 2006, 07:45 AM
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Jim is right, the small clip is usually the issue, as it is weak. When we install a new blend cable we use a die and thread the end of that cable and nut it (eliminating the weak clip) and this prevents that failure from happening in the future.
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  #15  
Old November 8th, 2006, 09:44 PM
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I know this is not 'the right' way to fix it............but I followed Jim Cs advice and reached up into the vent and adjusted the flap. Heat would clearly come out, but the flap kept coming closed.

I unscrewed the vent under the steering wheel, proped something into the vent to keep the flap open, and then screwed the vent back on. Now heat is fully flowing to the driver side, and passenger side.

I will get back to this and try to fix it properly with the cables..........but at least until I do I have heat flowing toward my feet!

Thanks,

Flagg
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  #16  
Old November 9th, 2006, 05:24 PM
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Is this issue that has been discussed in the D90 (having the lower vents not stay open when the lever is moved to the floor position) track the same to the NAS 110? It mechanical yes? not a vacuum thing?
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  #17  
Old November 13th, 2006, 02:36 AM
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Glad to see this thread. Just had the exact same problem with my '97 NAS D90. I tried to screw the clip down tighter & stripped out the clip. I then went and got a nut to fix my "stripper" problem, but it still wouldn't hold the cable. I think it is b/c the cable sheath is starting to fray. Even tried the ol' PB blaster w/o success. Guess I will try to rig it like Flagg for now -- my feet are starting to freeze! Definitely don't want to crack the dash open.

Mike, you mentioned "die and thread the end of that cable and nut it" -- do you have any pics of this application? Is this something one can "try at home"?

Thanks,

Heston
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  #18  
Old November 13th, 2006, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hlamar

Mike, you mentioned "die and thread the end of that cable and nut it" -- do you have any pics of this application? Is this something one can "try at home"?

Thanks,

Heston
Its something we do on resto and such. You can do it too if you are replacing the blend cable, but it requires some major dash tear down. Next time I do one I'll post to the web site. Basically just getting rid of the cheesy little clip Rover used where the belnd cable hosuing passes through the dash top. Just makes it much more secure. The stupid clip gave way on my own 90 once and it meant so much work to fix I made sure it could never pull out again by using a nut instead.
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  #19  
Old November 14th, 2006, 01:04 AM
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Thanks Mike! Any future pics would be great.
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  #20  
Old November 14th, 2006, 03:53 PM
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For lubing the cable I have a tool designed for lubing motorcycle cables that I also use for Mountain bikes. It is a small aluminum block with a rubber insert that is open on both ends with a clamp that holds and seals the rubber against the cable housing. There is then a small hole that you spray lube through and down the cable, it's a bit messy but works great.

I don't know where you would get one as I've had mine for over 10yrs but I have seen them for sale since.

I will try to take a picture of it if anyone is interested.
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