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  #1  
Old August 5th, 2016, 11:07 AM
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Mark Whitehouse
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After market electric fans

So I have after market electric fans on my Defender. Sorry can't remember the name. There is a switch under the hood that is used to set them up. Not so long ago someone posted a link to instructions on how to configure these fans. I cannot find it now, can someone help?

Many thanks
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  #2  
Old August 5th, 2016, 11:21 AM
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kenlowe probably
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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Old August 5th, 2016, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
kenlowe probably
Yep Kenlowe. Many thanks - just need the instructions now.
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  #4  
Old August 7th, 2016, 06:27 PM
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Derek
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A quick 5 second google search turned this up.

Kenlowe fan fitting instructions. - TR Technical Chat - TR Register Forum
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  #5  
Old August 7th, 2016, 07:13 PM
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Chris
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I've been researching electric fans

And 12 inch dual set up looks decent. https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm . Add this to a new radiator, then look at the allisport electric fan set up and electric radiator. Look more you find more choices.
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Old August 7th, 2016, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
I've been researching electric fans
Love these two guys! They do some good stuff.
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  #7  
Old September 3rd, 2016, 10:51 AM
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Pete Gerbine, III
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Have been battling the temp issue for too long on the 110. Flushing radiator, adding a core to the radiator, replacing viscous fan, swapping different thermostats, etc., with continued temps rising in the 210-220 range, especially while sitting at a red light or drive thru. And trying to run the A/C while sitting, the temp would rise even faster and the A/C air would blow quite warm/hot.

I recently went with the Revotec dual fan set up, as in the video previously posted, and have been beyond happy with the results so far! Sitting in the same intersections and drive thrus as before, A/C blowing, temp has not even touched 200! A/C on the 110 is not the best in the world, but now it stays cool, even while sitting at a red light!

I am optimistic that this several year battle, with constantly watching my temp gauge rise well above my comfort zone, is now over!
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Lobster View Post
Have been battling the temp issue for too long on the 110. Flushing radiator, adding a core to the radiator, replacing viscous fan, swapping different thermostats, etc., with continued temps rising in the 210-220 range, especially while sitting at a red light or drive thru. And trying to run the A/C while sitting, the temp would rise even faster and the A/C air would blow quite warm/hot. I recently went with the Revotec dual fan set up, as in the video previously posted, and have been beyond happy with the results so far! Sitting in the same intersections and drive thrus as before, A/C blowing, temp has not even touched 200! A/C on the 110 is not the best in the world, but now it stays cool, even while sitting at a red light! I am optimistic that this several year battle, with constantly watching my temp gauge rise well above my comfort zone, is now over!
Did you change your head gaskets? I battled this same problem and ultimately head gaskets were the cause.

One often overlooked item though is the pressure cap and whether the system pressurises. The hoses should get firm when up to temp. The cooling system is inefficient unless it has pressure and likely won't cool the truck as you describe.

What you've described is a system that can't adequately cool the amount of heat being generated. There are two possible scenarios.

1. Excess heat being generated - head gaskets, over fuelling

2. inadequate cooling. It could be inadequate circulation and a worn out water pump or a restriction in the flow.

Bottom line is the fans are masking your issue not solving it.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #9  
Old September 3rd, 2016, 07:26 PM
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Pete Gerbine, III
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Thanks for the info, and I will continue to monitor. I was dealing with this issue prior to my last 4.6 cratering. New 4.6, head gaskets, water pump, core addition to the radiator, etc....temp still crept up the 220 range...particularly with A/C on and red lights during the high East Texas summer temps.

I am curious about the cap and pressuring up and will watch that, as well.....thanks!
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Lobster View Post
Thanks for the info, and I will continue to monitor. I was dealing with this issue prior to my last 4.6 cratering. New 4.6, head gaskets, water pump, core addition to the radiator, etc....temp still crept up the 220 range...particularly with A/C on and red lights during the high East Texas summer temps. I am curious about the cap and pressuring up and will watch that, as well.....thanks!
Hoses should be soft when it's cold and firm when it's hot. There were some faulty expansion caps that didn't seal a couple of years back.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #11  
Old September 5th, 2016, 10:02 AM
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Got me poking around a little more and looks like the expansion tank cap could've been the original. Looks pretty well shot and surely not helping the case any. Local auto parts store had a 16 psi cap, but no 15 psi, and system appears to be pressuring up correctly. Feeling better and better about this...

Thanks, again, for the info!
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  #12  
Old September 5th, 2016, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Lobster View Post
Got me poking around a little more and looks like the expansion tank cap could've been the original. Looks pretty well shot and surely not helping the case any. Local auto parts store had a 16 psi cap, but no 15 psi, and system appears to be pressuring up correctly. Feeling better and better about this... Thanks, again, for the info!
Hope it's fully fixed ... This time!
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #13  
Old September 19th, 2016, 08:01 PM
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Is there a consensus about putting the temperature sensor into the top or bottom hose? I'm leaning to the top.

Getting ready to install a Revotec to my 300Tdi tomorrow.

Mike & Carrie
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  #14  
Old September 19th, 2016, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuamPilot View Post
Is there a consensus about putting the temperature sensor into the top or bottom hose? I'm leaning to the top.

Getting ready to install a Revotec to my 300Tdi tomorrow.

Mike & Carrie
I just put a Revotec in my truck, and the instructions said to put in in the top hose.

Murph
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  #15  
Old September 19th, 2016, 08:13 PM
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It does not matter for function other than your temperature switch must be at the right temperature setting for the location. If it is adjustable, you can work it either way.
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  #16  
Old September 19th, 2016, 09:27 PM
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Looks a decent, well put together fan kit. Fans appear to be Spal from the quick glimpse of the labels I saw.
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  #17  
Old October 31st, 2016, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
Looks a decent, well put together fan kit. Fans appear to be Spal from the quick glimpse of the labels I saw.
Been using Spal Straight blade PULLER fans placed on the engine side of the radiator on many of the turbo charged BMWs we built.

It helps to accelerate the air passing though the rad as you drive, than fight the opposing air like traditional ones.

I will be using a full size intercooler as well so it will help to keep away hot air from the radiator too.

SPAL comes in two sizes, 14" and 16" with straight blades, cant remember what size fits the 300TDI, have to measure rad.
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  #18  
Old October 31st, 2016, 11:07 AM
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Here is the Spal 14" and 16" PULLER...made in Italy and of good quality..been using them for many years with no failure.

SPAL 30100385 14’’ Fan Pull | eBay

SPAL 30100400 16’’ Fan Pull | eBay
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  #19  
Old November 26th, 2016, 03:23 PM
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I've got a 3.5 V8, and it stays at proper temp nearly ALL the time, even driving or in traffic on all but the HOTTEST days (only time I've seen it creep up a bjt was sitting in 2 hrs of traffic after driving for 3 hours and it was 105 degrees, let alone on the pavement in the sun, so maybe 115-120 in the engine bay).

However when I take her on the beach, diffs locked, it quickly begins to get hot and near overheating. The max speed is around 15-20mph.

Would a dual fan setup like this help here? Or should I look into a new radiator and fan setup entirely?

Most of the solutions and advice on here have referenced people with real overheating problems, not as much my situation where it's just barely inadequate.
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  #20  
Old November 26th, 2016, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPdotCOM View Post
I've got a 3.5 V8, and it stays at proper temp nearly ALL the time, even driving or in traffic on all but the HOTTEST days (only time I've seen it creep up a bjt was sitting in 2 hrs of traffic after driving for 3 hours and it was 105 degrees, let alone on the pavement in the sun, so maybe 115-120 in the engine bay).

However when I take her on the beach, diffs locked, it quickly begins to get hot and near overheating. The max speed is around 15-20mph.

Would a dual fan setup like this help here? Or should I look into a new radiator and fan setup entirely?

Most of the solutions and advice on here have referenced people with real overheating problems, not as much my situation where it's just barely inadequate.
Assuming you are still stock, the viscous unit on the fan is probably not working. Off road use is when it is needed. Electric fan(s) will work. They just need to be installed and controlled properly.
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