Advice on Winter Driving Preparation for my D90 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 12th, 2009, 10:40 AM
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Andy B
94 D90 NAS
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Advice on Winter Driving Preparation for my D90

First year owner of a pretty much stock 94 D90 softtop.
I live in eastern Ontario (Canada) and I was possibly thinking of driving my D90 this winter occassionly.
The D90 is not our primary vehicle ( we have a Dodge Ram and Cherokee also).

I would not be even considering driving it in too cold conditions ( -15C or below), just on days relatively mild (sunny) winter days.

The D90 has basically no rust. Chassis is in excellent condition with no rust (cross member is excellent).

Am I crazy about even think about taking out in the salt cover roads this winter? should I look at some sort of corrosion/ rust proofing protection (ie Waxoyl)
Will it be too cold with the current heating system and the soft top? Will I need an auxilary heater?

I am curious what others in the Northeast have done to prepare their rover for the winter. Or do most of you store it until the salt is off the road?

Comments/suggestion are welcome.

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1994 Defender


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Andy
94 D90 NAS
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  #2  
Old September 12th, 2009, 10:43 AM
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Hans Haase
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The stock heater can seem a bit weak at first, but I found a bit improvement just by removing the little angled vent covers. Puts out a lot more air without them. I forget who it was offering the bulkhead screens, but they would be a great addition as well. Adjust the doors and vents to make sure they are sealing properly.



The only REAL problem I had was crappy tires, which were sliding all over the place on ice, snow and wet roads. Once I replaced the tires, I was fine.

-Hans
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  #3  
Old September 12th, 2009, 10:59 AM
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Pat
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Undercoating is key in keeping it nice over time. Since Waxoil is not easy to come by here in Canada I would suggest getting a Ziebart/Permashine waxy rust proofing and be done with it. And if you want the job to be done properly power wash the underside yourself and let it dry for a good and thorough washing and stick around when they do it so they don't miss a spot (dress accordingly).

Pat
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  #4  
Old September 12th, 2009, 06:58 PM
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I would not drive it anytime there was salt on the roads.
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  #5  
Old September 12th, 2009, 07:52 PM
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If you do drive it hose it down afterwards...
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  #6  
Old September 12th, 2009, 11:17 PM
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Andrew J. Hutton
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This would be why mine is getting fully galvanized, painted, waxoyl'ed, and at least one supplemental heater fitted, as well as extra sound/heat insulation. Where in eastern Ontario are you? I am just west of Ottawa by about 25 minutes.
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Old September 12th, 2009, 11:44 PM
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Galvanized everything I would drive it.
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  #8  
Old September 13th, 2009, 09:28 AM
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Kyle Caskey
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I've heard of a product in canada called Krown which is a brand of undercoating. I've been looking into ways to protect my truck this winter. It's already well undercoated but I'm going to use Fluid Film as an adder layer. it's a sheep oil based, non solvent corrosion inhibitor that doesn't evaorate away. It's not something you apply once and forget, it would need reapplication but it's not coating all your wiring, fasteners and other components with hard undercoat that makes it hard to service.
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  #9  
Old November 28th, 2009, 08:50 AM
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Sterling M Archer
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Fluid Film

click here---> Fluid Film

Fluid Film has been around since WWII, so I wonder why I just learned of it yesterday?
I was at Kyle's place yesterday and noticed this stuff sprayed on his truck. He explained it as a measure against salt for this winter. Being familiar with Kyle's high standards with products for his trucks I decided to do a little research of my own when I got home.
You can use it as salt protection on the underside of your Defender, and for any electric connections too. It seems to be easy to apply, and not so permanent as Waxoyl. I had planed on keeping the 110 in the garage this winter to protect it from death by salt. Now I think I may be able to drive it with a liberal amount of Fluid Film.
If you have an air compressor with a sprayer attachment you can apply Fluid Film from a 1 gallon can, or by aerosol can. I bought three aerosol cans from eBay, but you can also purchase this from any John Deere store. I will post my results to this post latter.
I highly recommend doing a little research of your own by clicking on the link above.
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  #10  
Old December 4th, 2009, 07:24 PM
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Peter Stolz
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So I have rust treat my '94 Defender, my '84 CJ, and a "new-to-me" '74 Bronco. Fluid Film looks good, but it seems like it might be one of those things that does it all, but does none of it as good as a dedicated product.

I think I'm going to go with the Waxoyl, but when I get inside the frame members, what's the best way to prep that, or do I just shoot some Ospho (or similar) in there as good as possible and call it good?
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  #11  
Old December 4th, 2009, 09:21 PM
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Jay Goss
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I think you use the 120-4 for the inside of the frame, door frames, bonnet frame, etc- there are some videos demonstrating the application on the Rovers North site. Looks like a special applicator tube is inserted and extended all the way in then pulled back and rotated as the atomized solution is applied.
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