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  #1  
Old September 30th, 2012, 05:44 PM
FastYugo
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George
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Advice on purchasing a D 90

First, I want to thank any of you that may give me some guidance on this car. I am into German cars but know nothing about Land Rovers...outside of wanting one.

This car is not for sale but the owner uses it little and a friend thinks that they would be happy to sell it.

Description:

The engine and transmission run smoothly, about 75K miles on the car. There is a yellow "service engine" light on.

The car rattles like crazy, I believe the exterior cage is loose and the bushings (are there any?) must be gone or worn off.

The interior is a couple of points above ratty, the car was mainly driven by the mom but sometimes driven by one of the "kids" and fairly sure that it wasn't loved much.

The backseats are ripped and need to be fixed.

There is some rust...pics below

There is accident damage, estimates vary from 3k to 5k.

I'll post some pics...there is a plaque in back that has a number/300.

What do I offer?
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  #2  
Old September 30th, 2012, 05:52 PM
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I would offer 10-15 depending if it has a salvage title or not
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  #3  
Old September 30th, 2012, 05:57 PM
FastYugo
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You can see in some of the pics where the rattling of the cage is pulling the rear area away from the body...

Also, there is an aftermarket stereo system.

Again, thank you in advance.
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  #4  
Old September 30th, 2012, 05:58 PM
FastYugo
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The car is a one owner car that spent most of its life in Houston, now in NM. No accidents nor paintwork outside of the obvious.

Title is clear.
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  #5  
Old September 30th, 2012, 06:08 PM
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post the number/300 and I can tell you if it's salvaged or not.
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #6  
Old September 30th, 2012, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjstahl3
I would offer 10-15 depending if it has a salvage title or not
I'd make sure there isn't damage to to frame first.
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  #7  
Old September 30th, 2012, 06:14 PM
FastYugo
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A friend at the local bmw dealer ran a Carfax (dealer version) and title is clear. I wanted to list as few details on the personal stuff since I wanted to respect the owners privacy.

Thanks again for your help. I was thinking 22k but haven't made an offer and glad that I found this site...I don't want to overpay...just looking for a fair deal for all involved.

Frame damage: The damage looks to be to be fairly superficial, car drives straight but good point, if it gets serious...I'll have a bodyshop look at it carefully.
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  #8  
Old September 30th, 2012, 06:16 PM
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what's up with the driver side footwell? Is that carpet or the footwell itself coming apart under the rubber mat? The rear seat bases can be purchased here:

http://www.eurorestorations.com/Euro...rim_Panel.html

then retrimmed with a kit from Exmoor.

Members here usually have a few of the AC vents that they'll sell.

The front wings are $5-700 or so on here usually.

Make sure it doesn't have frame damage.
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  #9  
Old September 30th, 2012, 06:24 PM
FastYugo
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George
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
what's up with the driver side footwell?
Both sides look the same, it looks like someone had some extra carpet from HomeDepot

Thanks for the tips on sources to fix it up.

This thing reminds me of a wounded puppy, I just want to take it home!
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  #10  
Old September 30th, 2012, 06:25 PM
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x2 on the title and frame - everything else is easy to resolve. Toss out the crap rear seats and steps. Interior needs new a/c vents and carpeting (Badger).. and it's not that bad. You can get that wing and fender pretty easily. 10-15 is a good offer.

tntlr has the fenders for $450 (and they may be on sale).
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  #11  
Old September 30th, 2012, 06:32 PM
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Dude. There is no way tell by posting some pictures and describing it as "running smoothly." How do you know it's really running smoothy?

You'll have to engage him, take it to a reputable mechanic, have the mechanic check the frame top to bottom for rest and that it's still aligned. That step rail has rotted through... what about parts of the frame? Being in Texas and NM is great but how do you know it didn't spend ever winter in CO? Is that tub pulling away causing any other damage? The rear cross looks okay... pull up the front mats/carpet and look at the bulkhead. Look at where the front cross member connects to the frame.

Running smoothly for a D90 is a relative term. Is the head gaskets blown? You said it yourself... the truck doesn't SEEM like it's been taken care of (actually makes me sad to see the pictures as it looks more neglected than someone had a ton of fun in it). Maybe it's never had it's fluid changed... approaching 100k miles, it's getting to the end of its never-take-care-of-it lease on life. Most D90's leak. But to what extent and what is it leaking?

These are all things that factor in.

A pristine 97 LE can go upwards of 45K. So the only way to tell what it's worth is start somewhere there and start deducting costs for you to fix it. Seats are expensive. Do you want it perfect? Other than that, you are playing the game of what's the lowest you can pay the owner for him to give it up. Which is fine... but that's going to depend on your negotiation skills vs what the truck is actually worth.

Posting the badge # is something any joe can walk by and see. I never understand why that or license plates are hidden... but maybe someone will tell me the latest scam! There is badge to VIN database here: http://www.lrfaq.org/Defender/FAQ.De...der_97D90.html

Good luck. I hope you do get it and put it straight again.
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  #12  
Old September 30th, 2012, 06:44 PM
FastYugo
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George
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Thank you for your input. The car definitely looks neglected but it's been maintained by the local land rover mechanic...it does leak from a couple of areas.

The owners have a few range rovers and this defender that they keep here, their summer home. I don't necessarily want to get it for "as cheap" as possible, I would rather do a fair deal and move on.

I did pull up the carpets and there was no rust. Also, there is only one picture of the step rails but both are rusted. I did look under the car and couldn't find any other rust.

The part that worries me the most is where the cage connects to the back of the car, it looks like it's pulling the sheet metal away from the body (water/rust issues?)

Running smoothly, it runs smoothly...tough to get a better description unless I take it to a mechanic and if I'm doing that, it means that I've come to some kind of deal with the owners...I do understand your point.

Thanks for the point on the Crossmembers, I'll need to check that out.

Pics of the license/#...perhaps I am being silly, it's not my car nor is it for sale...I'm doing it purely out of respect for their privacy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronlam View Post
Dude. There is no way tell by posting some pictures and describing it as "running smoothly." How do you know it's really running smoothy?

You'll have to engage him, take it to a reputable mechanic, have the mechanic check the frame top to bottom for rest and that it's still aligned. That step rail has rotted through... what about parts of the frame? Being in Texas and NM is great but how do you know it didn't spend ever winter in CO? Is that tub pulling away causing any other damage? The rear cross looks okay... pull up the front mats/carpet and look at the bulkhead. Look at where the front cross member connects to the frame.

Running smoothly for a D90 is a relative term. Is the head gaskets blown? You said it yourself... the truck doesn't SEEM like it's been taken care of (actually makes me sad to see the pictures as it looks more neglected than someone had a ton of fun in it). Maybe it's never had it's fluid changed... approaching 100k miles, it's getting to the end of its never-take-care-of-it lease on life. Most D90's leak. But to what extent and what is it leaking?

These are all things that factor in.

A pristine 97 LE can go upwards of 45K. So the only way to tell what it's worth is start somewhere there and start deducting costs for you to fix it. Seats are expensive. Do you want it perfect? Other than that, you are playing the game of what's the lowest you can pay the owner for him to give it up. Which is fine... but that's going to depend on your negotiation skills vs what the truck is actually worth.

Posting the badge # is something any joe can walk by and see. I never understand why that or license plates are hidden... but maybe someone will tell me the latest scam! There is badge to VIN database here: http://www.lrfaq.org/Defender/FAQ.De...der_97D90.html

Good luck. I hope you do get it and put it straight again.
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  #13  
Old September 30th, 2012, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastYugo View Post
The part that worries me the most is where the cage connects to the back of the car, it looks like it's pulling the sheet metal away from the body (water/rust issues?)
This is a legitimate concern. Only way to be sure though is to pull the trim panels off the rear quarter panels to take a peak. Really easy to do. From the outside... it doesn't look too bad... the cappings don't look like they are rusting.

A bit trickier but removing the jump seat frame and pulling the side trim will also reveal the inside of the cappings where the rust usually is.

Pull up the carpet in the back also... if there are gaps in the roof... it could have leaked into the tub and rotted through there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FastYugo View Post
Running smoothly, it runs smoothly...tough to get a better description unless I take it to a mechanic and if I'm doing that, it means that I've come to some kind of deal with the owners...I do understand your point.
You could offer XXX amount against what is discovered at a mechanic check through... like buying a house. Or you can gamble... than that more depends on how much you are actually getting it for. Did you talk to the mechanic who has worked on the truck already?

Also... are you going to fix this stuff yourself or take it somewhere? And do you want to get it all back together or just good enough (i.e. trail rig). 10-15k is a good offer for the noticeable damage (and could be an AWESOME deal if it turns out to be just superficial stuff). But that would a slightly insulting offer to the owner. If you need a new frame... you are looking at another 5-10k (depending on if you swap yourself). If the engine has a ton of problems...

The rear seats are going to need more than the seat bottom... the fabric is torn. But honestly, those rear facing seats are pretty much useless except for little kids.

22k is pretty high if you ask me. If you are going back for more picts... post picts of the frame on the inside where it connects to the front cross (by the transmission)... tap along the inside of the frame with a screwdriver. Take a picture of the engine. Inquiring minds want to know.
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  #14  
Old September 30th, 2012, 07:15 PM
FastYugo
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George
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Thank you and thanks to everyone who has chimed it.

All great points below, will print and look at it tomorrow morning. The mutual friend is coming over in the morning and he's been driving the Defender while his Audi recovers from being an Audi.

I will want the car to go back to original and will do the cosmetic stuff myself...outside of an air filter or easy mechanical stuff, my skills are very, very, limited.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronlam View Post
This is a legitimate concern. Only way to be sure though is to

pull the trim panels off the rear quarter panels to take a peak. Really easy to do. From the outside... it doesn't look too bad... the cappings don't look like they are rusting.

A bit trickier but removing the jump seat frame and pulling the side trim will also reveal the inside of the cappings where the rust usually is.

Pull up the carpet in the back also... if there are gaps in the roof... it could have leaked into the tub and rotted through there.


You could offer XXX amount against what is discovered at a mechanic check through... like buying a house. Or you can gamble... than that more depends on how much you are actually getting it for. Did you talk to the mechanic who has worked on the truck already?

Also... are you going to fix this stuff yourself or take it somewhere? And do you want to get it all back together or just good enough (i.e. trail rig). 10-15k is a good offer for the noticeable damage (and could be an AWESOME deal if it turns out to be just superficial stuff). But that would a slightly insulting offer to the owner. If you need a new frame... you are looking at another 5-10k (depending on if you swap yourself). If the engine has a ton of problems...

The rear seats are going to need more than the seat bottom... the fabric is torn. But honestly, those rear facing seats are pretty much useless except for little kids.

22k is pretty high if you ask me. If you are going back for more picts... post picts of the frame on the inside where it connects to the front cross (by the transmission)... tap along the inside of the frame with a screwdriver. Take a picture of the engine. Inquiring minds want to know.
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  #15  
Old September 30th, 2012, 07:33 PM
seaswood
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I will want the car to go back to original and will do the cosmetic stuff myself...outside of an air filter or easy mechanical stuff, my skills are very, very, limited.[/QUOTE]

Consider if you pay 20, or 22,$. For this & do want it in new original plan on spending another 22, $ to get it there. these are neat vehicles but in no way simple fixes. It gets involved rebuilding as you will not know until you tear things apart.
If your skills are very limited you will have to pay someone.
If you are in NM. Call Great Basin Rover, talk to Bill he may give you some idea.
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