Advice on first time removal of door tops - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 13th, 2013, 01:48 PM
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Advice on first time removal of door tops

Looks like mine are on there pretty good. Rusty bolts, 10 coats of EX MOD paint on the seals. I searched a read a great deal about issues, replacement studs, yada yada.

Figured it would hit ya'll up for any advice before I break shit.

TIA
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  #2  
Old June 13th, 2013, 01:55 PM
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I'd try PB Blaster and be very careful.
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  #3  
Old June 13th, 2013, 02:03 PM
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Blast it for several days. Avoid hammering on it from below. It is really easy to 1) mushroom the end of the stud and 2) to dent the skin. Can you get the nuts off? Can you spin one of the studs out of the door top? On one of my door, I could get one stud out but the second was rusted fast. I removed the loose stud and then door from the vehicle. I could then spin the top off of the rusted stud and then had much better access to get at the rusted stud from the top and bottom. Liberal amounts (daily for a couple weeks) of PB Blaster and eventually heat and some moderate force and it came loose. PITA
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  #4  
Old June 13th, 2013, 02:19 PM
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COUPLE of WEEKS LOLOL

doh! Maybe I will just leave them on!

Actually I have not even tried yet to get the bolts off, just wanted to make sure I start the process correctly.
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  #5  
Old June 13th, 2013, 02:26 PM
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Dude, loosen the nuts and give it a go. Don't forget to lube your studs with anti-sieze upon reassembly.
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  #6  
Old June 13th, 2013, 02:28 PM
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Josh...try it first, and THEN post up problems.
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  #7  
Old June 13th, 2013, 02:35 PM
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Squirt some silicone on the window bottom rubber gaskets and give it time to wick in there. Even if you get the two studs loose, the rubber gasket will peal the paint off the capping.
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  #8  
Old June 13th, 2013, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Josh...try it first, and THEN post up problems.
was trying to AVOID creating a problem, man! Im good at creating them..ask my wife!
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  #9  
Old June 13th, 2013, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Josh...try it first, and THEN post up problems.
This
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  #10  
Old June 13th, 2013, 02:55 PM
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Ha. Just sayin'...there's plenty of info on here regarding the process to at least get you started. PB blaster is a must (probably mentioned in all 30 or so threads dedicated to the process). Aside from that...patience. Once you hit a roadblock, then come back and post up. No need in us hypothesizing all that can go wrong, just for you to talk yourself out of even trying it!
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  #11  
Old June 13th, 2013, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Ha. Just sayin'...there's plenty of info on here regarding the process to at least get you started. PB blaster is a must (probably mentioned in all 30 or so threads dedicated to the process). Aside from that...patience. Once you hit a roadblock, then come back and post up. No need in us hypothesizing all that can go wrong, just for you to talk yourself out of even trying it!
Yep, read about PB blaster in everything that came up in my searches too. Just was looking for advice so I dont screw something up, thats all. No more, no less.
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  #12  
Old June 16th, 2013, 04:59 PM
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Cut the paint with a razor. use a small impact, 3/8, gently. The studs have a plastic sleeve and will probably come out of the tops. If needed open the windows and hammer on the upper tracks gently with a rubber hammer. Best of luck.
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  #13  
Old June 17th, 2013, 09:45 AM
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Hi lift jack under the top of the door



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  #14  
Old June 17th, 2013, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel_jim View Post
Hi lift jack under the top of the door

I'm not above trying this lmao
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  #15  
Old June 18th, 2013, 12:14 PM
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Small pry bar worked for me. So has opening the window and smacking the underside of the top with your hand.
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  #16  
Old June 18th, 2013, 05:30 PM
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I thought I'd resurrect this. 2/4 bolts came off after many days of PB. 2/4 studs loosened from the uppers.

I will order some new seals because these are pretty beat up.

Question. Is it worth Loctite (or the like) the studs in the uppers so they don't unscrew next time around? The studs are Brett nasty so perhaps I should just order a new set in SS?

Appreciate the help.
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  #17  
Old June 19th, 2013, 01:08 PM
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Get the stainless. They are worth it in my opinion.
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Can't you feel 'em circlin' (closin'in) honey?
Can't you feel 'em swimmin' around?
You got fins to the left, fins to the right,
and you're the only bait in town.
You got fins to the left, fins to the right,
and you're the only girl in town.

Jimmy Buffett


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  #18  
Old June 19th, 2013, 02:04 PM
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Utube it......a guy shows up how to go drill them out......easy
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  #19  
Old June 19th, 2013, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrubs View Post
Utube it......a guy shows up how to go drill them out......easy
Why drill em out? Mine didn't snap off.
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  #20  
Old June 25th, 2013, 10:31 AM
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Tried removing mine for the first time last night. Since I plan on replacing the doors soon, I wasn't too concerned about small dings. Here's what worked well for me on Series doors that look as if they've never been taken apart:

1) Use propane torch to heat the nut. The nut came off with only minor protests. Remove both nuts.

2) Use propane torch to heat the metal sleeve the stud passes through to red hot.

3) Spray Loctite "Freeze & Release" on the stud for about 10 seconds.

4) Pound on stud with Estwing 45 oz Dead Blow hammer. You should see movement.

5) Possibly repeat 2-4.
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