advice needed on framing bulkhead for galvanizing - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 4th, 2014, 07:46 PM
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Amit Likhyani
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advice needed on framing bulkhead for galvanizing

First of all, I've been told that the bulkhead would twist if hot dipped without framing. Given that does anyone have advice on how to best frame the bulkhead so it survives a hot dip.
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  #2  
Old September 4th, 2014, 08:31 PM
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That has not been my experience
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Old September 4th, 2014, 08:33 PM
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I've heard it as well but I think it has more to do with the galvanizer then the bulkhead.
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Old September 4th, 2014, 08:41 PM
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When i had my bulkhead dipped, some of the flat panels came out with an ever so slight wave to them. I too worried about warpage, but having seen what actually happens, focus your energy on solving real issues.
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Old September 4th, 2014, 08:43 PM
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Just dip it. They are easily bent to fit in place. Even before galvanizing they are rarely straight.
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Old September 4th, 2014, 10:03 PM
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Of you can buy my extra one that has already been dipped and not have to worry about it warping. :-)
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Old September 4th, 2014, 10:07 PM
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Paul Robinson just did it, his did twist but he was able to get it back into place relatively easily (I just saw it this week all painted up and in place).
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  #8  
Old September 4th, 2014, 11:21 PM
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Amit Likhyani
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guys, thanks. I'll give it a shot with the understanding that even if it does warp all is not lost and it can be bent back.
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Old September 4th, 2014, 11:38 PM
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I have a frame made by Mike of North American Overland in CT and works well. No warping noted and frame is heavy but galv place in NJ only charged me $300 for 2 bulkheads, 2 door frames, and suspension parts. Sorry I don't have photos before dipping and frame stored in PA house.
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  #10  
Old September 5th, 2014, 04:00 AM
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Zinc plate it. That's what did, no issues with warpage and better paint adhesion.
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Old September 5th, 2014, 08:12 AM
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I've had two bulkheads dipped. Yeah, there wil be minor waving in the flat panels but it doesn't affect fit or function. When ready to paint just give it a good metal cleaning and acid treatment before priming. I use PPG DX579 and DX520. PPG recommends priming with their product, DPLF epoxy primer, within 24 hours. It's always good to use the same manufacturer system for compatibility and did so when I painted the first bulkhead. The second one still sits waiting for it's turn in the project list. That said, I've used Rustoleum self-etching primer and camo paints for my trailer with great success.
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Old September 5th, 2014, 09:19 AM
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i phosphoric acid etched my galvanized bulkhead as pretreat, rinsed with deionized water to neutralize the acid. I applied southern polyurethanes two part epoxy primer at mfg recommended proportions. sprayed at 65 degrees, let cure per mfg and painted over with base and spu clear with fast activator.

adhesion to passivated zinc substrate was low for the first month after painting. primer would not split but would slide over zinc so it had to be handled delicately. after three to four months, full cure was achieved and now adhesion to zinc is strong.

would recommend passivating and epoxy priming plus being very delicate with the resulting work until four months have elapsed for full cure. if you have the resources chromate conversion (alodine) would be superior to any other form of acid etching.
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