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  #1  
Old June 8th, 2012, 05:19 PM
K9Phil
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Advice needed

I just pulled the trigger on a D-90 out of state, so it's going to require shipping and a long distance transfer of funds and title/bill of sale. For those who have done it, what's the best way to do this so that I'm protected? The seller seems perfectly trustworthy, but the fact is I've never met him. Kinda leery about sending funds either by wire or check, and not getting title and/or vehicle at same time.
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  #2  
Old June 8th, 2012, 05:23 PM
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Ian Gregory
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You're either going to have to trust or buy a plane ticket.

Suggest they ship the title, any other paperwork and spare keys, etc. by FedEx or something, not in the truck.
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  #3  
Old June 8th, 2012, 05:34 PM
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Where is it located? Maybe you can get some help from a board member.
Biggest thing to remember is never let one party have all three items at once....1. Truck, 2. Money, 3. Title
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2006 Range Rover
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  #4  
Old June 8th, 2012, 05:42 PM
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Ian Gregory
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I disagree.

As a seller selling a truck to a stranger, I am not going to send you a truck OR a title without cleared funds in hand. So I would have all 3 for at least a short time in that scenario.
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  #5  
Old June 8th, 2012, 05:49 PM
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On the deals I have done, I sent a copy of the cashiers check to the seller the day before. He went to the local Wells Fargo office and verified the funds. I gave the check to the transport company and they traded it for the truck and the seller fedexed me the title once the check cleared the next day. (I didnt trust the transporter with the truck and the title.)
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1997 D90 ST #1953
2006 Range Rover
1997 D90 SW #701 (sold)
1995 D90 ST (sold)
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  #6  
Old June 8th, 2012, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipgregory View Post
I disagree.

As a seller selling a truck to a stranger, I am not going to send you a truck OR a title without cleared funds in hand. So I would have all 3 for at least a short time in that scenario.
Yeah, I have to agree, I don't think I'd send a buyer anything unless I had some hard money wired or cleared into my account.

I sold a 911 to a corporate lawyer from Miami that I never met. He was pretty cautious and had drafted a lengthy purchase (3 pages is lengthy for a car transfer) contract.
I had to sign the contract infront of a Notary at a bank with copy of my license included before he wired me a $5,000 deposit. I then mailed the original title (signed over to him) and kept the car until I verified the wire transfer for the balance.

Making people go through the hassel of signing real contracts in front of Notaries is a total PIA, but when you've never met somebody and you're dealing out of state it's easier than buying a plane ticket. Also, a small detail, but specify in the contract that if there are any disputes that the case will be settled in your own state's (or Commonwealth) court system.

I've bought and sold plenty of cars and trucks over the internet/phone. My 110 was purchased from a private party in some remote town in UK. Never met the guy, but after all the conversations we had I was more than confident.

Bottom line is that be patient and be a gentleman asking the other party to be patient. If they get agitated and don't understand why you're bing so careful, run for the door. Anyone with good and resonable intentions would understand that these things take time.
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  #7  
Old June 8th, 2012, 06:17 PM
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Ian Gregory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reese_D90 View Post
On the deals I have done, I sent a copy of the cashiers check to the seller the day before. He went to the local Wells Fargo office and verified the funds. I gave the check to the transport company and they traded it for the truck and the seller fedexed me the title once the check cleared the next day. (I didnt trust the transporter with the truck and the title.)


So you have had people send you vehicles without cleared funds in hand and then follow on with the title? And you've had truck drivers holding/transporting cashierís checks for you? I think you've been lucky. I wouldn't do it and I suggest most others wouldn't either.

Maybe I have been lucky but whilst I have never sold a vehicle online so I can only suggest what I would do, I have bought a few and always had to (never expected otherwise) pay for the vehicle up front before it moves.

If the transaction is big enough then the cost of the plane ticket and the peace of mind is worth quite a bit (to me anyway).

Maybe I would go the route that Jackie suggests with the contract and the notary but I am not sure many would as itís a lot of messing around as he says. If you had to pay a lawyer for the contract, thatís most of the way to a plane ticket anyway.
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  #8  
Old June 8th, 2012, 06:19 PM
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PM me and I'll see if I can email a MS Word document that was a the sale contract I had. You could fill in the blanks or overwrite.
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  #9  
Old June 8th, 2012, 06:41 PM
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I had a contract of sale with the seller as well. There are a number on the internet if you google it.
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1997 D90 ST #1953
2006 Range Rover
1997 D90 SW #701 (sold)
1995 D90 ST (sold)
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  #10  
Old June 8th, 2012, 06:48 PM
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here is the bill of sale I used. Good luck.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf sale.pdf (40.4 KB, 54 views)
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NAS 1993 D110 CDN #11/25
1997 D90 ST #1953
2006 Range Rover
1997 D90 SW #701 (sold)
1995 D90 ST (sold)
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  #11  
Old June 8th, 2012, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K9Phil View Post
I just pulled the trigger on a D-90 out of state, so it's going to require shipping and a long distance transfer of funds and title/bill of sale. For those who have done it, what's the best way to do this so that I'm protected? The seller seems perfectly trustworthy, but the fact is I've never met him. Kinda leery about sending funds either by wire or check, and not getting title and/or vehicle at same time.

Phil this place is filled with Land Rover enthusiasts and good chance they know the truck or possibly the seller. Is it a NAS truck? What is the truck number? And who is the seller? I am sure Josh will fill in the rest if there is any info available. He is creepy scary with that kind of stuff
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  #12  
Old June 8th, 2012, 07:15 PM
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Ian Gregory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reese_D90 View Post
I had a contract of sale with the seller as well. There are a number on the internet if you google it.


Not a valid one you didn't. You both broke the one you attached. He released the vehicle without cleared funds (cash or cash equivalent the BOS states) in hand and you (or the truck driver as your agent in this case) took possession same. I am not a lawyer but thatís pretty obvious. Your statement that the seller should not have possession of the money before releasing the truck and title is not what I would do if I was selling it or what I would suggest the OP should expect. As a seller in your scenario, if the funds didnít clear I would have to jump through hoops to get the truck back possibly. Which is why I wouldnít do it.

Jackieí scenario is more involved and more cautious but still requires the seller to release the title prior to having cleared funds for the full amount in hand. More opportunity of recourse for the seller if there is an issue but still risk

Buying a vehicle is simple, pay then play. Doing it remotely means both parties have greater risk potentially. Most sellers are not going to accept any risk so you as the buyer need to be prepared to do what you can to minimize yours if you want to buy the truck. The only sure way to do that is to go see the truck and pay for it in person. Take possession of the title and paperwork then arrange for it to be moved or drive it away. Anything less than that is a risk to you and you need to determine if you are comfortable with it.
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  #13  
Old June 8th, 2012, 07:18 PM
K9Phil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Phil this place is filled with Land Rover enthusiasts and good chance they know the truck or possibly the seller. Is it a NAS truck? What is the truck number? And who is the seller? I am sure Josh will fill in the rest if there is any info available. He is creepy scary with that kind of stuff
Thanks to all who have responded so far. It's unlikely the seller is known as he has lived out of the country for several yrs (main reason for selling). It is a 1994 NAS D-90, Portofino red in the SF Bay area. Don't have the badge #, but have vin, carfax, service records, etc. I can get badge #, he his home on vacation. Truck was originally sold in Oregon (Portland area) and has been owned by seller since 1998.
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  #14  
Old June 8th, 2012, 08:07 PM
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Ian Gregory
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Your location suggests you're in the Pacific NW and the truck is on the mid west coast. Can't you drive down over a weekend, pay for it and haul it back on a 1 way U-Haul trailer? Or fly down and 1 way haul it back?

Most reasonable sellers would pick you up from a local airport and take you to the truck. You can then drive it to a U-Haul, Penske, Budget, etc. and load it up for the trip home at minimal cost. Or if it was me I would just drive it back unless you know up front its not capable.
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  #15  
Old June 8th, 2012, 09:04 PM
K9Phil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipgregory View Post
Your location suggests you're in the Pacific NW and the truck is on the mid west coast. Can't you drive down over a weekend, pay for it and haul it back on a 1 way U-Haul trailer? Or fly down and 1 way haul it back?

Most reasonable sellers would pick you up from a local airport and take you to the truck. You can then drive it to a U-Haul, Penske, Budget, etc. and load it up for the trip home at minimal cost. Or if it was me I would just drive it back unless you know up front its not capable.
Sure, I could go down there and do it in person, but I'm not to keen on doing a 13 hr drive in a D-90 that I'm not familiar with yet. I have visions of oil cooler lines bursting. As for the trailer idea, I tried to rent a u-haul car trailer when I bought my first D-90 9 yrs ago and they wouldn't rent it to me when they saw it was for a D-90. I forget the exact reason, it was either a width or weight restriction.
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  #16  
Old June 8th, 2012, 09:12 PM
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I would NEVER release a truck with out verified payment. It is a catch 22 between the seller and the buyer. Chicken or egg type of deal. The best way is to go and load the truck on the trailer yourself. You can never be 100% sure about the deal otherwise. I have purchased a lot of trucks on the internet and have always gone to get them unless it was a large dealership. The suggestion about getting one of the forum members to help out would be a good idea. Oh....and when ever you say the seller has been out of the country all types of flags go up.
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  #17  
Old June 8th, 2012, 09:50 PM
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Small hijack, but any issue with a USAA cashiers check at the time of a vehicle purchase? I'm parting with a vehicle tomorrow (no, not a rover) and buyer is paying in that format. Met/talked to the dude a bunch so nothing seems shady, but was just curious.
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  #18  
Old June 8th, 2012, 10:04 PM
jhhorse
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joe heins
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If you use a contract to sell/buy a vehicle, and it is written correctly, protects everyone.

I sold a vehicle to someone from another state, used a contract that said vehicle will transfer ownership with title, etc, once " good funds" have been received from buyer. Same idea as a real estate contract.
If funds provided by buyer are good (a cashiers check that clears) , then no one can back out and seller must provide the vehicle as advertised.
If seller unwilling to sign a detailed contract, run away!
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  #19  
Old June 8th, 2012, 10:27 PM
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Welcome back to the club! I would go get it, to make sure you are getting what you are paying for. When you rent the uhaul, tell them you are towing a Camry. If you can rent it by your house and tow it down and back, you can save money.
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  #20  
Old June 9th, 2012, 12:40 AM
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Worth a call to U-Haul or whoever you want to use. They show a D90 as eligible on their website but I admit I haven't tried to actually rent one for a 90. But others on here have reported no problems. I have my own dolly or I have shipped or driven my vehicles in the past.

Get LOTS of pictures up front of the stuff you want to see, talk to the seller about anything you can think of that concerns you. Decide if it 'feels' right before shelling out for the trip. Fly down pay for it in person and trailer or drive it back. No issues for you or the seller.

If you get there and decide you don't want it then just fly back. Out of pocket a bit but less than being saddled with a bad truck or having somebody walk away with your hard earned money.

If you decide to do it remote then at least have somebody inspect it. Either a board member or friend you trust or a PPI. Only do the deal if you feel everything is right and the inspection is OK. Expect to pay for the truck in full to the sellers satisfaction before it or its papers go anywhere. That's the trust version.
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