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  #101  
Old August 8th, 2015, 07:23 PM
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this is as close as I can get my pump aligned. I sent Jimmy this picture and he suggested that it looks like it jumped a tooth or was assembled that way the last time some one changed the belt (someone was in there based on the mismatched hardware).



If I understand this correctly it looks like I'm advanced by a lot.

The only adjustment is in this direction:



Anyone have any ideas?
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  #102  
Old August 8th, 2015, 08:47 PM
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I think that is retarded?? You must be off a tooth.
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  #103  
Old August 8th, 2015, 08:59 PM
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And there is an easy way to fix that without taking off the front cover?
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  #104  
Old August 8th, 2015, 09:02 PM
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Nope. Personally, I would be wanting to do a full timing belt with new, proper pulleys and seals if I found this on my truck. If they installed it wrong, what other corners were cut?
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  #105  
Old August 8th, 2015, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Nope. Personally, I would be wanting to do a full timing belt with new, proper pulleys and seals if I found this on my truck. If they installed it wrong, what other corners were cut?
Good point. The PO mentioned that the timing belt was changed recently. I think I have a belt somewhere also. Oh well has to get done.
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  #106  
Old August 25th, 2015, 10:49 PM
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Centered the slot. Will do some adjusting/ advancing once everything is back together (Timing belt kit, water pump, seals).

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  #107  
Old August 26th, 2015, 01:42 PM
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nice job! it is a pain in the butt to crack the case and redo the timing.
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  #108  
Old May 5th, 2017, 10:53 AM
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I need to try this out. I think this may be my why top end is not to good.

Anyone have a video of what a properly advanced engine is supposed to sound like? Same with an improperly. I have been told my engine is quiet.

Should I just buy a dial gauge and set it like that? Never used one before.

Can someone link me to one that is easy to use on these engines? Ideally one that requires the least of amount of parts to be removed.
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  #109  
Old May 5th, 2017, 12:03 PM
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I have this set

Diesel Fuel Pump Timing Kit - Paddock Spares

It allows for timing done without removing the fuel lines or the oil filter stuff. Can't remember where I got it, as it was cheaper then paddocks. Works great, I also made an adapter to use it with timing two stoke motorcycles/mopeds
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  #110  
Old May 5th, 2017, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
I have this set

Diesel Fuel Pump Timing Kit - Paddock Spares

It allows for timing done without removing the fuel lines or the oil filter stuff. Can't remember where I got it, as it was cheaper then paddocks. Works great, I also made an adapter to use it with timing two stoke motorcycles/mopeds
That's epic. Yes I want one that I don't need to mess with other things. Dang that one is spendy $135.

Anyone have any comments about the ones on Amazon? Napalm can you take a look at any of these and see if you think they would work without taking stuff off like your kit.

Maybe something like this?

Anyone have a kit they will rent for a few days?

https://www.amazon.com/Diesel-Fuel-I...MCCJBE61N2MVKS
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  #111  
Old May 5th, 2017, 12:41 PM
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Looks like the major parts or the set are very similar! Good find

Dial indicator is the same size and the three main adapters look to be too
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  #112  
Old May 5th, 2017, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Looks like the major parts or the set are very similar! Good find

Dial indicator is the same size and the three main adapters look to be too
Very cool.

Any comments on this video?

This job is scaring me. I feel like I am going to go to adjust it, mess something up, and have to pull the timing cover and have to re-time everything.

Thoughts? Over thinking it? Zeroing out the indicator/pump is what is scaring me.

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  #113  
Old May 5th, 2017, 12:57 PM
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After starting this thread years ago, its time to append it.

Adjusting the timing with a dial indicator on lift is THE way to do this. It is easy to get one tooth off on the injection pump using just the pins. You will never know if you don't use a gauge.

This was the story with my 110's 300tdi. I advanced the timing (1st post in this thread) and it got better but I could not advance it enough with out moving the belt 1 tooth. The only way if figured that out was with the gauge.
I have done 2 other 300's timing belts and they were both too retarded even though the pins fit.

The process is surprisingly easy. Just follow what s in the video.
I removed the lines and it is a clear shot. No fouling on the vacuum or fuel pump.

So the lesson is: Everytime you change the belt, use the gauge!!!

------ Follow up post added May 5th, 2017 12:59 PM ------

Zeroing is easy and straight forward. Just make sure it is going down as your turn the pump then once it stops going down zero the gauge.
It may take a little trial and error to get to 1.54mm lift. I had to move the belt a tooth.
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  #114  
Old May 5th, 2017, 01:03 PM
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I got this ^^^ advice from the owner of a pretty large diesel shop in Alexandria, United Diesel.
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  #115  
Old May 5th, 2017, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user View Post
Zeroing is easy and straight forward. Just make sure it is going down as your turn the pump then once it stops going down zero the gauge.
It may take a little trial and error to get to 1.54mm lift. I had to move the belt a tooth.
Can you go into a bit more detail? I am doing this with belt on and the engine theoretically timed correctly. I don't get smoke but think it might be retarted slightly, definitely not advanced..

1. Set flywheel pin

2. Set timing pin into pump (for me it is a very tight fit)

3. Install dial gauge in back of pump

4. Loosen 3 bolts on gear

5. How do I zero the gauge here?

6. Using center bolt on gear turn clockwise and watch dial get to 1.54mm (or 1.6mm if I am feeling frisky)

7. Tighten 3 bolts

8. Remove gauge, pins etc

Is this correct?
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  #116  
Old May 5th, 2017, 01:47 PM
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On a Defender 200TDI, you must remove the filter housing. There is no clearance to do this.

IMO, the method above is not the best.

1. Install gauge.
2. Turn crank forward until close to TDC on #1 power stroke.
3. Note low spot before TDC and zero gauge.
4. Turn to TDC using flywheel notch to get dead on. Look up through the hole. Do not use the timing pin. It is not accurate enough.
5. Note lift amount.
6. Adjust lift at pump sprocket.
7. Back up crank well into the zero area.
8. Turn forward and set zero.
9. Continue to TDC and check lift again.
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  #117  
Old May 5th, 2017, 01:49 PM
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You can buy the dial gauges all over the place for $20 or less. They are common for this purpose.
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  #118  
Old May 5th, 2017, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You can buy the dial gauges all over the place for $20 or less. They are common for this purpose.
Link?
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  #119  
Old May 5th, 2017, 02:02 PM
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https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...H6vHjwSxzKaICQ
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  #120  
Old May 5th, 2017, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
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Can you point out a (good) less then $20 one?
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