Add front sway bar to ROW 110 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 12:30 PM
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Add front sway bar to ROW 110

Folks, perhaps an old topic - i searched the threads and found some info - but still lack some basic info on how to install a front sway bar to my 1988 RHD 110. I see that YRM sells brackets - presumably these are what get (welded?) to the axles.

I can weld but what I have yet to find is a couple good photos of a front sway bar on a 110. A couple of good photos of the point where it connects to the axle would be helpful and couple where it connects to the frame.

I have a Disco II at home too but can see its a different set up at the axle-end of the sway bar than the disco has. Plus it sounds like I will need to fabricate some brackets at the frame attach points too.

Is anyone willing to take a few photos of their 110 sway bar and upload for me?

Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 01:27 PM
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The brackets when I looked into it were quite expensive. Yes, you weld to the axles and then also brackets on the frame.

My new NAS 110 frame has the brackets, but my original front axle does not. My plan was to swap the axle with one out of a discovery, but I have not made it a priority and would be more of a challenge in alaska with a RHD 110.
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  #3  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 01:51 PM
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Chris Solis
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I did this with mine (front and rear). As soon as I get a sec i'll snap some pics. I bought the brackets and sourced a used sway bar. I still have some brackets and dont remember what they were for. I'll snap a pic of them as well.
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  #4  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Solis View Post
I did this with mine (front and rear). As soon as I get a sec i'll snap some pics. I bought the brackets and sourced a used sway bar. I still have some brackets and dont remember what they were for. I'll snap a pic of them as well.
Aside from the process (which I am also curious about), are you happy with the on-road results of adding sway bars? What were the noticeable differences? Any major setbacks? Thanks!
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  #5  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 02:10 PM
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To be fair i didnt do the work, it sounded pretty straight forward from the shop (who has done it before). I also added quad shocks to the rear at the same time. Results: 10000000% improvement on road. Went from semi trucks blowing me into the shoulder and steep descents being a pucker fest to stable, predictable, controllable driving.

Here are the rear shocks.
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  #6  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 02:38 PM
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thanks for photos

Those photos are a good start.

My 110 feels pretty unstable - It could be a number if issues - Its a new truck for me and although its in pretty good condition - so I am doing the typical step of going through everything with all of my free time. So it may get better after I replace the rubbers and ball joints on the rear sway bar.

I have all new OME shocks and springs installed and steering is tight.

I like a stiff commanding ride and right now every seam in the road or snow patch makes me feel like my ass end is going to come around on me. Pucker is the word that comes to mind.

Final question - How critical is the condition of the ball joint in the rear self-leveller (A Arm)? If its bad will it contribute to sway in the ass end?

I was planning on replacing it anyway but wondering what kind of priority to put on it. I do NOT get the CLUNK that is typical of a warn ball joint back there so i had not put it on top of the list at this point.
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  #7  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 02:49 PM
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I haven't done the A arm, from some videos in Death valley i have a sexy ass wiggle on some rocks but after putting new shocks on (i didnt change the springs) and sway bars the ride was not tight and commanding but it is much better.
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  #8  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 04:36 PM
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Here are the pics: front sway bar mounts, rear quad shocks, rear mounting brackets
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  #9  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 05:10 PM
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Thanks for the photos - good information there. Looks like the Defender front sway bar actually mounts BEHIND the front axle, just like the rear one does. On the Disco II the front sway bar is on front of the axle.

You brackets are labelled "REAR"- presumably though these are what you welded to the frame for the front sway bar though.
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  #10  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 06:47 PM
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Adding a rear sway bar is what helps the most because the factory 3-link has a lot of flex. The front is pretty ridged even without a sway bar. Most guys take the front sway bar off for more articulation and find that even without it you don't get a lot of flex.
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  #11  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Ten View Post
Adding a rear sway bar is what helps the most because the factory 3-link has a lot of flex. The front is pretty ridged even without a sway bar. Most guys take the front sway bar off for more articulation and find that even without it you don't get a lot of flex.
I was thinking the same thing. My plan is to get those slotted bushings from Polybush for the front and just add a sway (from Buck) for the rear.
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  #12  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 08:36 AM
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I still have my front and rear factory swaybar on my nas110. I also have the safariguard(now RTE) progressive 3" coil fronts and matched OME springs in the rear, with OME shocks all around. I could not be happier with the firmness of my ride or my sway, and everyone knows mine is one heavy beeyoch with my RTT on top. I can comfortably do 70-75 mph on the highway and I bob and weave through traffic with no issues. When i go into corners at speed like on an on ramp, I can feel the progressive coils stopping the sway immediately and then beginning to push back on the dipping corner while still in the turn. If I took my roof rack off it would feel like a sportcar to me. For a 3" lift it still amazes me.

BTW, I can take whatever pics or measurements you want of my swaybars. Just let me know.
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  #13  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 10:48 AM
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Best handling defenders I have had are 130's which come with front and rear sways. Tends to pick up a corner quickly in off road articulation scenario's though which doesn't scare me.
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  #14  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 11:11 AM
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For the rear, the x-eng bar is a good choice if you go off road. http://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?ro...&product_id=76
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  #15  
Old August 1st, 2014, 04:24 PM
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I realize this is a few months old, but if you happen to get a chance, I would like to see pics of the front sway bar. I would be interested to see the connecting points...to the frame, axle, etc.....as I am not seeing one on my NAS 110, with a RTT, and wanting it to be a little more stable on the road.

Thanks!
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  #16  
Old August 1st, 2014, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Best handling defenders I have had are 130's which come with front and rear sways. Tends to pick up a corner quickly in off road articulation scenario's though which doesn't scare me.
I concur - my 130 is much more stable. I had a rear on my ROW 110 and removed it mid trip just outside Mojave - the handling is VERY noticeably different when nothing else changed.
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  #17  
Old September 8th, 2014, 07:11 PM
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Does anyone know of a stateside source for the brackets that weld to the front axle...as well as the placement specs?

I will also be looking for a front sway bar. Will the RN sway bar for the D90 be sufficient for my 110 with a RTT or is there a HD option available somewhere?
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  #18  
Old September 8th, 2014, 07:42 PM
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If anyone is looking for a roll bar I have a few
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  #19  
Old September 8th, 2014, 08:18 PM
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urban landcruisers/landrovers

Urban landcruisers has the sway bars (take off) and the brackets you need.
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  #20  
Old September 8th, 2014, 08:37 PM
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I'm also going this direction, found extream 4x4 in UK has bolt on brackets though after a month's worth of emails no reply.
Ymrmetalsolutions has the weld on style that can be purchased as mentioned above.
My problem is having nothing to look at prior to welding for correct fit.

Did read disco 1's ARB'S were the same fit as a 110, could be wrong though.
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