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  #21  
Old June 16th, 2016, 08:25 AM
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FLAGG, first off, I'm glad you're ok.

Secondly, I hate to tell you this, but the truck is a total waste.
I'll give you a $1000 for it and I can be there tomorrow with a trailer.









.
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  #22  
Old June 16th, 2016, 08:40 AM
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Chuck Meyers retired last week, and that leaves only 1 person on staff that I know since I sold it 10 years ago. Really can't comment on their capabilities.
Good to know!
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  #23  
Old June 16th, 2016, 08:41 AM
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Nomar - Love your message

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  #24  
Old June 16th, 2016, 10:52 AM
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Just my own personal experience with this and not on a defender, but I would take my truck to my friendly body shop who would work with the insurance to get me the biggest check I could get and then I would fix it myself or have someone else do it. I would give the friendly body shop guy a $100 for his time and help.

Let me give you what I am thinking (you will need to get actual prices from a friendly dealer -- tell them it is body shop job they will give you the MSRP and they normally give a 10-20% discount to the bodyshop). Prices below would be the estimate/check.

Sills for that side are probably $300 painted and installed, well that buys rock sliders.
A door is probably $500, hinges probably another hundred, plus install and paint you are looking at $1000 there.

Bulkhead repair is a big variable. They will probably want to pull it out and fill. I would press for $$$$.

Fender replace and paint is probably another grand same on the back.

Steering/wheel bent etc.

This are all probably wildly off, but it would not surprise me for you to get a $5000 estimate. Take the check, but a used door, used mirror, used front outer fender, buff out the rear fender, fix whatever is bent, and pocket the rest.

Otherwise you are going to be dealing with a long repair time, massive hunt for parts etc.
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  #25  
Old June 16th, 2016, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Good to know!
Not Treasured.....just my experience.

Go with Dean at Independent in MD....very close and FOCUSES on Land Rovers & Defenders.
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  #26  
Old June 16th, 2016, 11:19 AM
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Not Treasured.....just my experience. Go with Dean at Independent in MD....very close and FOCUSES on Land Rovers & Defenders.
x2, Dean knows his stuff and has a proven record of standing behind his work. He has two shops, one dedicated to Defender/Series/Classics and Discos and another for the later model stuff.
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  #27  
Old June 16th, 2016, 11:24 AM
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Glad you are okay..

Wow, glad to hear you are okay. Just my take, but if you had been another 18 inches further ahead, it may have been a very different story for you. Looks like the main impact was just in front of the Bulkhead, had it been just behind (in your door) I'd be worried for you, since there is essentially no structure there..

I love my Defender, but the body is a thin tin can, me thinks you got luck that the main impact was essentially taken by the bulkhead. Of course the downside to that is it may have very well tweaked the bulkhead, or the frame, but that is a lot easier to repair than you!

Good luck with the repair process, hope it isn't too much of a headache! Keep us posted!
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  #28  
Old June 16th, 2016, 03:24 PM
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Call into Trevor. With All the positive comments on Dean and Independent, I am going to give them a call to.

We will see where this goes.

Thanks, everyone.

FLAGG
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  #29  
Old June 16th, 2016, 05:52 PM
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re the bulkhead, that looks very reparable and all sections are available, contact YRM YRM Metal Solutions - Love it, YRM it
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  #30  
Old June 16th, 2016, 07:03 PM
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Glad you are okay, the tub was spared and D is reparable.
One has to ask -- would a pair of TF sliders with tree bars prevented this damage? I think so.
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  #31  
Old June 16th, 2016, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Glad you are okay, the tub was spared and D is reparable.
One has to ask -- would a pair of TF sliders with tree bars prevented this damage? I think so.
I always wonder about that. I kinda suspect it would maybe have saved some of the body, but transfer all the force to the frame and likely tweak that (everyone knows they're butter). Then you have to ask, which one is easier to fix?

I guess survivability and repairable accident damage are different animals though
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  #32  
Old June 16th, 2016, 08:45 PM
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Actually I have the bulkhead repair yrm panels for sale right now on site
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  #33  
Old June 16th, 2016, 09:29 PM
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Looks like a a good candidate for the weld-on stud dent puller.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #34  
Old June 17th, 2016, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by cellulararrest View Post
I always wonder about that. I kinda suspect it would maybe have saved some of the body, but transfer all the force to the frame and likely tweak that (everyone knows they're butter). Then you have to ask, which one is easier to fix? I guess survivability and repairable accident damage are different animals though
True, Ive seen this. Same with boxed bumpers. That energy has to transfer to the weak points and we know where those are.

What would be interesting is whether an insurance company employee would put the two together and deny a frame claim.
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  #35  
Old June 21st, 2016, 02:35 PM
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I want to thank everyone for their input and suggestions.

I had a GREAT conversation with Trevor, and a GREAT conversation with Dean. This board seems to give both great reviews. I liked both tremendously when I talked to them, both said similar things, and both gave me a ton of confidence. I had a very hard decision, because I feel like they both would have done a great job on my Defender.

After sleeping on this decision for a couple nights, I am going to go with Dean at Independent. He can start the work a littler sooner. BUT, The primary reason for me is proximity to my house. I plan to visit the Defender a couple-few times durning the repair. It would take me about 2 hours to get to Trevor and only about 40 minutes to get to Dean.

If they were the same distance apart I don't know how I would have decided. I would not hesitate to let either of them work on my Defender.

I will keep you posted on how it goes.

FLAGG
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  #36  
Old June 21st, 2016, 02:40 PM
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good luck!
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  #37  
Old July 6th, 2016, 03:26 PM
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My Defender goes to Dean at Independent on Friday. This process will now begin

I will keep you in the loop!

FLAGG
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  #38  
Old July 6th, 2016, 04:31 PM
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All great advice being given. That said, the insurance company is going to value your truck similar to what's in the NADA guide book. In other words don't look at KBB for any sort of worth. 1995 Land Rover Defender 90 Value | 2 Door Station Wagon 4x4 Prices and Book Value


I'm guessing by your profile pic that your NAS is a SW so, I gave you a snap shot of value. You can use this to help in your "negotiation" with the insurance company.


First, they're going to inspect every inch of your truck as they look to depreciate its value; things like cleanliness become a factor (no kidding). You need to show them that it is a well maintained classic.


Second, review your insurance policy for how much in "add-ons" (stereo system, armor, etc...) you're able to claim; this will help increase the value of the truck.


Third, you can also show value by providing maintenance receipts. Let's say you just replaced your alternator, water pump, and distributor last month; all those "new" parts add value.


Fourth, by the looks of it and by what you can say its value is, they will not try to make it out to be a total loss; but, the estimates for repair and type of damage will dictate. Hence, why it's so important to get a high actual worth value for the truck.


Hope that helps.
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  #39  
Old July 6th, 2016, 06:48 PM
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All great advice being given. That said, the insurance company is going to value your truck similar to what's in the NADA guide book. In other words don't look at KBB for any sort of worth. 1995 Land Rover Defender 90 Value | 2 Door Station Wagon 4x4 Prices and Book Value I'm guessing by your profile pic that your NAS is a SW so, I gave you a snap shot of value. You can use this to help in your "negotiation" with the insurance company. First, they're going to inspect every inch of your truck as they look to depreciate its value; things like cleanliness become a factor (no kidding). You need to show them that it is a well maintained classic. Second, review your insurance policy for how much in "add-ons" (stereo system, armor, etc...) you're able to claim; this will help increase the value of the truck. Third, you can also show value by providing maintenance receipts. Let's say you just replaced your alternator, water pump, and distributor last month; all those "new" parts add value. Fourth, by the looks of it and by what you can say its value is, they will not try to make it out to be a total loss; but, the estimates for repair and type of damage will dictate. Hence, why it's so important to get a high actual worth value for the truck. Hope that helps.
Are you talking about before or after the accident? How clean can a car be after an accident? Also confused why the low NADA values for ST's and SW's are lower for ST's when ST's have been selling for more?
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  #40  
Old July 6th, 2016, 09:23 PM
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Are you talking about before or after the accident? How clean can a car be after an accident? Also confused why the low NADA values for ST's and SW's are lower for ST's when ST's have been selling for more?
I'm not sure of how the numbers are calculated via NADA but, they are certainly closer to the real value than KBB, which has these valued at under $20k. In my last accident, the value received for a total loss was within the NADA value range.

As far as cleaning, inspectors take note of every detail to include how the vehicle appears to have been maintained. Yes, the driver's side was hit but, how nice is the paint on the passenger side? Is it waxed like glass like a true collectable or is it a daily driver with scratches from shopping carts? Get what I'm saying?

After mileage and options, it's how they analyze worth. The higher the worth the less the percentage of repair compared to value. That translates to a smaller window of making it a total loss. But again, total loss also depends on the type of damage.
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