AC clutch not engaging (94 D-90) - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 29th, 2012, 01:50 PM
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Russell
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AC clutch not engaging (94 D-90)

The PO ran for +10 years with the AC belt off saying who needs AC when riding with the top off during Wyoming summers? Good point. Lucky him. He said the system work before and it still looks to be in good shape now.

Installed an AC belt yesterday and the compressor clutch did not engage when turning the AC fan switch and turning the AC temperature switch. The AC fan works and blows hard. Is this how you turn on the AC or is there something I am missing?
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  #2  
Old May 29th, 2012, 01:51 PM
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Jason England
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Yeah ... it needs gassing up. The AC gas would have leaked out ... and the clutch only engages when you have sufficient pressure.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Yeah ... it needs gassing up. The AC gas would have leaked out ... and the clutch only engages when you have sufficient pressure.
Good as any place to start. Thanks for the tip. Any luck with those ~ $40 32-oz freon recharging kits at Autozone or are they junk?
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Old May 29th, 2012, 02:15 PM
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When did they switch to R134? My RRC was changed to R134 and the Walmart DIY recharge kit was easy enough to recharge the system. It now blows cold, for a Land Rover. You better make sure which type of "freon" yours uses.
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  #5  
Old May 29th, 2012, 02:28 PM
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if you had R12 and are switching to R134 you can get the conversion kit for the valves where you get the R134. I would also swap the drier as you are supposed to do that when you switch refrigerant and its a good idea to do that given its age anyway.

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Old May 29th, 2012, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Good as any place to start. Thanks for the tip. Any luck with those ~ $40 32-oz freon recharging kits at Autozone or are they junk?
you need it done properly at least to start ... they need to evacuate the current system and then set it up correctly. Should cost abou $70-80 I think.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #7  
Old May 29th, 2012, 05:52 PM
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The '93/110 system was R-12, but I believe the '94 (Diavia) system was R134a. R134a service ports will be two different sizes, utilizing pop-on connectors. R-12 will use threaded ports of the same size.

Regardless, if your system has been depressurized for any amount of time, you should replace the dryer, immediately vacuum the system thoroughly, test for leaks, then recharge the system with new refrigerant.

Travis
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Old May 29th, 2012, 05:58 PM
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Just like others have said, the proper "fix" is to replace the drier, pull a good vacuum on the system, and recharge with appropriate refrigerant and oil.

That said, it might be prudent to just check the pressure in the system with a manifold gauge. You might just be low on refrigerant. In which case you might get by with topping off with a can of refrigerant (just be careful not introduce contaminants like air/water).
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  #9  
Old August 20th, 2012, 09:50 AM
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Finally got around to troubleshooting/charging the AC system. As mentioned in the first post, the AC clutch was not engaging. Reading it is not a good idea to charge the system with the pump not spinning, first step was jumper out the relay (and temp and pressure switches) by putting 12 volts to the pump. Yea, the clutch engaged. Removed power, cleaned off the fittings and hooked up a can of R134a. No pressure, no assuming a leak someplace. Plumped Freon in briefly, turned the pump back on, and the pressure stabilized at 10psi after a few minutes. Checked the vents and they were blowing cold. Shut everything down and sure enough, could hear and see the leak. One of the ECR oil lines was in contact with and wore through the AC high pressure tubing coming off the condenser. The oil line adapter plate must of loosened up and rotated during an oil change or was in contact after the install of these lines. Good news is the SS braiding on the oil lines show no signs of wear. Looks like the radiator will need to be pulled to replace the tubing.

Thoughts on the best place to procure a new dryer and this section of tubing?
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  #10  
Old August 20th, 2012, 02:35 PM
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This same hose let me down a few years ago. I took it to a hydraulic hose shop and they put a new hose on the original fittings. You'll probably have to do the same, since I'm sure it's hard to find (and old/used anyway, if you can find it).

For the dryer, I generally avoid parts from any local auto parts store like the plague, but Auto Zone part #4120 was a perfect fit, cost ~$30, and has been working for years (as long as the hose mentioned above).

Good luck!

Travis
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Old August 20th, 2012, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgraham View Post
This same hose let me down a few years ago. I took it to a hydraulic hose shop and they put a new hose on the original fittings. You'll probably have to do the same, since I'm sure it's hard to find (and old/used anyway, if you can find it).

For the dryer, I generally avoid parts from any local auto parts store like the plague, but Auto Zone part #4120 was a perfect fit, cost ~$30, and has been working for years (as long as the hose mentioned above).

Good luck!

Travis
Great tip re: the dryer. I will check it out. For the high pressure line, it is tubing. I will need to get one bent to shape with fittings. Is this what you meant?
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Old August 20th, 2012, 03:57 PM
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http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ac/ac-fittings-39.php
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #13  
Old August 20th, 2012, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Great tip re: the dryer. I will check it out. For the high pressure line, it is tubing. I will need to get one bent to shape with fittings. Is this what you meant?
Oops - sorry, I wasn't too clear. My hose burst and they replaced it, but I also had a suspected leak on the metal fitting itself, which was welded (by the same hydraulic shop). That might be a possibility.

Travis
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  #14  
Old August 20th, 2012, 07:38 PM
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Are the drier fittings #8? If so, I have some extra fittings and hose you can have. We can even crimp 'em for you.
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  #15  
Old August 20th, 2012, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Are the drier fittings #8? If so, I have some extra fittings and hose you can have. We can even crimp 'em for you.
No idea and thanks for the offer. Don't think hose will work for this application, need ridged tubing bent to shape. Will make this a winter project.
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  #16  
Old August 25th, 2012, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgraham View Post
This same hose let me down a few years ago. I took it to a hydraulic hose shop and they put a new hose on the original fittings. You'll probably have to do the same, since I'm sure it's hard to find (and old/used anyway, if you can find it).

For the dryer, I generally avoid parts from any local auto parts store like the plague, but Auto Zone part #4120 was a perfect fit, cost ~$30, and has been working for years (as long as the hose mentioned above).

Good luck!

Travis
Does that dryer fit with the trianary switch or does it have a compatible after market new one? I am having trouble sourcing a trianary switch for a 94 d-90 and don't know if fitting a whole new dryer is the answer.

thanks,
Brian
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  #17  
Old August 25th, 2012, 04:27 AM
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Russell,
Also, on a side note I have an early 94 (R134) and the P.O. said to always turn the blower fan on first than the temp as if you didn't follow this process, it had a tendency to blow a fuse. Not sure what the issue is or my truck specific but...just a thought.
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