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  #1  
Old July 24th, 2005, 09:29 PM
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About to do a flex-a-lite.... got some questions

Well, the heating bug has finally hit me... getting warm at stoplights, but fine when highway cruising. So I'm ordering the Flex-a-lite tonight. But I don't like the in-hose bulb setup that the 210 comes with, so I am considering going with the 220 fan (same, but no thermostat control) and buying the upgrade VSC controller that uses an electric sender and offers a post-shutdown timer and soft-start. Just want to confirm a couple things...

1. Variable Speed Control, anybody here use it? worth the extra money?

2. Tapping into the un-used A/C sender on the thermostat neck.... how have you guys done it?

-Hans
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  #2  
Old July 24th, 2005, 09:36 PM
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The FAQ has a good bit of info on the AC sender

http://www.defendersource.com/faq/En...ling.html#Fans

I don't think the variable speed is worth it, to be honest mine come on when I start the engine and don't shut off until I shut off the engine. The only thing you will save is a little life on the fans and some extra power from the alt. Best advise I can give, wire the fans seperatly! 1 relay and fuse for each one, I haven't tried it yet but I am prety sure for every day driving I could get by with just one fan out of the 2, I shut them off in the driveway let the temp run up to 220, then turned them on and watched the temp fall to 195 in about a minute.
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Old July 24th, 2005, 10:07 PM
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I did notice one thing different from the FAQ's.... the price went up a LOT since they were put there. Summit and Jegs both want $240 now for the 210's. I'm still undecided about the VSC, but I can see the usefulness of it. I like the multiple speed settings, and the post-shutdown timer. I agree it's probably overkill for the situation, but I've had cars boilover on me after shutting them off. I'd like to avoid the problem from coming up again if possible.

-Hans
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  #4  
Old July 24th, 2005, 10:14 PM
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Yeah the price has come up! I paid $210 for mine from Summit a little over 2 years ago, I got that little controler thingy that came with the fans, the connectors broke off of it and I chucked it. The VSC sounds cool but like you say about electric fans, it's another electrical thing to break. Relays are stupid cheap so you can carry a ton of spares, if you wire the AC sensor in you can wire it up so the fans don't shut off until that sensor cools off. Thats the way Jimmy's is setup and it takes about 10-15 minutes on a warm day before the fans shut off and by then everything is nice and cool. But the fans don't do much to cool the engine once coolant stops flowing anyway other then blowing cool air over the engine.
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Old July 24th, 2005, 10:42 PM
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Hans I just finished a new engine install along with a new 4 core straight fin radiator and flex-a-lites a la the mike hippert installation method(pretty much). Idling in the garage it works perfectly- temp comes up, fans come on for a little bit, temp goes down- fans turn off. I used the ac temp sensor replacement, it seems like a lot better way to go.

The point of my story is I bought my fans with the temp controller thingy and have no intention of using it. If you want to try your install that way, you are welcome to it(the temp controller thingy that is).

ps: Thanks mike for all the fan info you have posted, it made my install a walk in the park!

Rod
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Old July 24th, 2005, 10:53 PM
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Ok, Ok, you guys talked me out of it

I'll order the 220's and try the AC temp sensor thingie (just found the part numbers for it)

-Hans
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Old July 25th, 2005, 01:53 AM
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Just to follow up, I decided to pass on the VSC for now, but I need the fans pronto, so I put them on order from Jegs. Also decided to get a new temp gauge while I'm at it, and I went for the short-sweep AutoMeter Cobalt. Of course, that commits me to eventually make all the gauges match, oh well

now, time for sleep.

-Hans
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Old July 25th, 2005, 07:53 AM
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Rod glad to have helped

Hans you will be happy with the fans! Oh and I have 2 auto meter gages that don't match but I needed an oil pressure gauge so I didn't have much choice. Speaking of gages, what does your oil presser gauge read when the engine is warm and idling? Mine is awfully low.
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Old July 25th, 2005, 08:18 AM
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Well, I don't have an oil pressure Gauge YET... the money keeps going to things like catalytic convertors, flex-a-lite fans, head gaskets. So I'm still runny the dummy light for now.

What does yours say at idle and at running speeds? My Jeep gets down into the single digits when it's hot and idling. What oil are you running? 10w30? 15w40? 5w30?

-Hans
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Old July 25th, 2005, 08:32 AM
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10w30, when hot and idling it gets to just below 10pis, when running at anything above idle it is over 15 psi and gets as high as 40 at times. Doesn't knock at all unless it has been sitting for a week or more and even then it's just for the first few seconds of startup, this I have hear is common on serp belt engines. But as soon as it starts (when cold) it goes right up to 40 psi. I was thinking of trying some thicker oil but I like the thiner stuff for winter.
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Old July 25th, 2005, 01:06 PM
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Don't forget, the engine was designed for straight-30..... no multi-viscosity in the early 60's. So the oil is a LOT thinner than originally designed for, once it gets heated up. I've been using 15w40 in the summer, and 10w30 in the winter. If I could find 15w30 reliably, I'd just use that all the time.

That startup knock was about the same on mine too until I put the thermostat in. Sometimes when the 10w30 gets old, the idiot light starts to flicker on mine. I think it's because the short drive to work every day doesn't let me fully burn off all condensation in colder weather. Fresh oil cures that problem right up.

-Hans
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Old July 25th, 2005, 10:08 PM
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"LANHAM, MD (8/1/00) - From advanced engine management components to sophisticated permanent four-wheel drive systems, Land Rover offers sport-utility vehicles that are built with state-of-the-art technology... It also helps to dispel some commonly held myths about Land Rovers specifically and sport-utility vehicles in general.

ENGINE
Myth: Land Rovers do not offer contemporary engine technology.
Reality: The Land Rover V8 has been continually refined and possesses state-of-the art components.


The latest iterations of Land Rover's V8 engine, used in all Land Rover models sold in North America, have been heavily modified from the powerplant's original version. Name the part: block, pistons, camshaft, seals, even metallurgy-they've all been updated. The Land Rover V8 has gone through so many changes over the years that it is similar to the original engine only in architecture."


I doubt if using plain 30wt oil would be beneficial. The engines are designed for the oils specified by Land Rover, ranging from 5W/30 to 25W/50 depending on expected ambient temperature. 5W/40 and 10W/40-50 cover New York's year round temperature range pretty well.


Quote from Land Rover
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Old July 25th, 2005, 10:16 PM
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I totally agree that straight 30 would be a waste, and actually I think I was a bit wrong in this case anyways.... I forgot that Mike has the rotary pump, which WAS designed for muti-viscosity oils. The gear pump system of the earlier engines was originally designed in the days before 10w30 came along.

I was mainly just trying to say that he could use something a bit thicker without harming the engine in order to bring the pressure up a bit.

-Hans
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Old July 26th, 2005, 08:02 AM
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Thanks guys, I have been watching it a bit more, the gauge isn't in the best spot, the pressure never falls below 10psi, and at max it goes upto about 32psi. The dummy light never comes on either, I put a T in line with the dummy light to add the oil pressure gauge (It's mecanical ) and as soon as the engine RPMs increase the oil pressure comes right up. After 3 fill ups at the gas station the oil still looks pretty clean, but I have also changed the oil twice since the install of the engine. I would have to guess that the oil pressure in these engines runs pretty low, my fathers truck (93 chevy pickup) the oil pressure can reach near 80 psi and I don't think it goes lower then 30 psi.
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Old July 26th, 2005, 10:26 AM
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The spec for the oil pressure on a hot engine is about 26psi at about 2000ish RPMs for the gear type oil pump. With 15w40 I usually see 40psi cold and then it drops to spec when hot. I have tried stacking some small washers behind the relief valve spring to boost pressure, but it didn't seem to make much difference. It doesn't seem like much pressure but at 165,000 miles, the original engine is still going strong.
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Old July 29th, 2005, 10:51 AM
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Well, back to the original topic after I hijacked my own thread.....

220's are in and spinning, install was even easier than expected on them. Tomorrow the 160degree switch should arrive for the water neck, until then they just turn on with the ignition.

I had to turn an adapter on the lathe for the new gauge sender, but the Autometer Cobalt water temp gauge is also installed and running. Holy crap it's bright at night, and I thought the VDO's were an upgrade.

With the new cats also in, it's now time to go get the damned thing inspected.... i'm only 10 months overdue :-)

-Hans
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