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  #21  
Old May 16th, 2016, 04:45 PM
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Brent McDonald
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thanks all - I will get some pics of the engine bay.
Currently I have heat blowing up on the windshield when driving down the road. If I turn on the AC it does cool off and the air coming out of the vents is cooler. If I shut off the AC the air coming through the vents is rather warm once the engine is at operating temp (around 180-200 degrees) Also, once the truck engine is at operating temp the warm air coming through overpowers the AC and if it is over 65-70 degrees out I have to have a window down. I have a feeling that I am getting hot air off the engine flowing through the defrost and it is overpowering the AC system.
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  #22  
Old May 16th, 2016, 04:46 PM
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Parrie Willette
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My bad for assuming mechanical actuation... Vacuum hoses definitely would be starting point
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  #23  
Old May 16th, 2016, 09:17 PM
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Brent McDonald
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A few more pics. Unfortunately I can only post one at a time on the app.
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  #24  
Old May 16th, 2016, 09:18 PM
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Brent McDonald
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Another
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  #25  
Old May 16th, 2016, 09:19 PM
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Brent McDonald
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Yet another
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  #26  
Old May 16th, 2016, 10:01 PM
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  #27  
Old May 17th, 2016, 12:16 AM
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Ryan Phelps
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Still say all your problems are vacuum related. Are you sure it was even reconnected after the engine swap?
Ryan
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  #28  
Old May 17th, 2016, 07:23 AM
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Brent McDonald
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Yes. The AC works and I can get it to move from dash to center to floors. I just have a constant flow of air to the dash. Somewhere there must be a door open that flows air from the engine compartment into the cabin.
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  #29  
Old May 17th, 2016, 09:39 AM
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Ryan Phelps
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I do not know how the hvac distribution works for sure in your defender. The non ac version does not actually have a flap to close off airflow to the defrost vents so they get air all the time. Have you verified the warmer/cooler lever actually makes a change? The vacuum actuator that you photographed on top of the heater box is the actuator that adjusts the water valve to the heater matrix. Maybe this has stuck open or a seal has failed? If you wanted to test this you could put a pinch type clamp on one of the heater matrix hoses to stop the flow of coolant through the matrix. If the air stays cool then you have narrowed it down to that valve/control.
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  #30  
Old May 17th, 2016, 10:55 AM
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Brent McDonald
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This is getting more and more interesting. Does anyone have a schematic for a ROW AC system that would work for my 1988 truck? I always assumed it was the same as the 1993 NAS system.
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  #31  
Old May 17th, 2016, 11:01 AM
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Have you looked in the workshop manual? If you do not have it, you can get it here: pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com

I doubt many people have seen one of these early A/C systems, so you probably need to figure it out on your own.
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  #32  
Old May 17th, 2016, 11:17 AM
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Brent McDonald
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Have you looked in the workshop manual? If you do not have it, you can get it here: pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com

I doubt many people have seen one of these early A/C systems, so you probably need to figure it out on your own.
That is hugely helpful and manual 5 has the system. The box looks to be for the AC system and not the heater. I will spend some quality time with this over the next few days.
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  #33  
Old May 23rd, 2016, 02:26 PM
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Brent McDonald
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update. just drove the truck From Nashville to the smokeys and back for a fishing trip. What a huge difference the forced air intake and opening the door to the AC (the door in the wing top intake vent) made. I was able to drive there and back with the windows up as the AC was actually able to keep me comfortable while on the interstate (relatively I should say, was still warm but manageable). Around town was still too much for it to handle so the windows were down. The change also increased airflow into the cabin significantly.
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