97 sw overheating - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 28th, 2015, 12:43 PM
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Here is the scenarios: Hot day in the 30s (Celsius) going slow low gear up hill following other trucks through a trail in the bush.... Over a period of 15 min the needle slowly rises and finally verges on the red before I stop and let it cool.... Rad fluid comes out of the overflow (I.e. There is enough there) Engine fan turning. Small fan on front of rad not coming on that I can see... Is this stock? NO problems at all going highway speeds up long hills at high rpm. Any suggestions?


Possibly a side issue.... Air con pooped out after several stops to cool.
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  #2  
Old June 28th, 2015, 12:47 PM
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The fact that it cooled off at highway speed sounds like a failing water pump to me. More airflow thru the radiator and higher engine RPM turning the failing water pump increased your engine cooling.
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  #3  
Old June 28th, 2015, 12:55 PM
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It seems to maintain temp when idling or even cool off slightly when in a near overheat situation. Does that still sound like the water pump? And what about that auxiliary electric fan? Is that stock on 97s?
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  #4  
Old June 28th, 2015, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Arcadeus View Post
It seems to maintain temp when idling or even cool off slightly when in a near overheat situation. Does that still sound like the water pump? And what about that auxiliary electric fan? Is that stock on 97s?
Lets see what others say on the running hot, I still think it is the water pump. As for the little fan, that fan only turns on when your radiator/engine are about to reach critical mass (melt down) on a 97.
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  #5  
Old June 28th, 2015, 01:30 PM
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off road= little to no airflow, possibility of obstruction, thermostat. I would look into cleaning/radiator recore. most common failure of our 20 yr old machines and most overlooked component until it fails.
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  #6  
Old June 28th, 2015, 01:37 PM
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I had this issue with my 97SW. Replacing my water pump solved my problem. My aux fan crapped out years ago and I decide to just remove it. I don't have problems cooling with the AC running. Temp gauge pegs at TDC and never moves. I also changed my vFan, hoses and tstat all at the same time. All these components had 110k so I felt it was worth the splurge given what over heating these engines does.
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  #7  
Old June 28th, 2015, 02:17 PM
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And I f temp rises coming off interstate then driving slower, yup water pump.
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  #8  
Old June 28th, 2015, 03:35 PM
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In city driving is fine so far.
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  #9  
Old June 28th, 2015, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcadeus View Post
In city driving is fine so far.
Mine too. The only time it showed heat was when I drove up this one mtn pass and when off road on occasion. You can take a flathead screw driver and check for play in the pulley. Any movement whatsoever is not good.
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  #10  
Old June 28th, 2015, 04:14 PM
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Kay sounds like the water pump... Can I use a Buick part or do I need the Land Rover one?
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  #11  
Old June 28th, 2015, 04:19 PM
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Good question. I've not had any luck with non genuine parts. Makes zero sense to me but I just have bad luck. Might call a guy like Trevor at Rovah Farm his customer service is good and he'll give you a good price on genuine parts if he feels they are worth it.
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  #12  
Old June 28th, 2015, 04:22 PM
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I wouldn't ever go with britpart or some crap like that.... But it is a Buick engine so isn't that more "original" than the Land Rover "repro" LOL.
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Old June 28th, 2015, 04:28 PM
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It "was" a Buick engine for only a few years in the sixties. There are many, many more Rover versions of the engine than there ever were made by Buick.
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Old June 28th, 2015, 04:30 PM
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Go genuine for sure. You don't want to change it twice.
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  #15  
Old June 28th, 2015, 04:30 PM
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Got it... Thought it might be easier to source a gm part here than a Land Rover one.... Any upgrades here or is stock the way to go?
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  #16  
Old June 28th, 2015, 04:31 PM
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I hear Ya. Rock Auto I believe has cross referenced parts for the D. I'd probably support the indie Rover guy unless the price point is way out in left field somewhere.
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Old June 28th, 2015, 04:34 PM
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$398 from Rovers North for the genuine item.

WATER PUMP '95 RANGE ROVER CLASSIC DISCOVERY I, DISCOVERY II,, RNC052, STC4378 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts

Give Zack a call and see if he can hook a brother up with an Independence Day discount.

The Britparts pump is $80 from them but I wouldn't go that route for all the work involved in changing it the first place.

http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDe...=PLC052&type=0
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  #18  
Old June 28th, 2015, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
I hear Ya. Rock Auto I believe has cross referenced parts for the D. I'd probably support the indie Rover guy unless the price point is way out in left field somewhere.
I would love to unless I can get it locally...

Doesn't make sense to pay two sets of import duties...

<-- Canadian

Is there anything else I should do preventative/upgrade at the same time?
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  #19  
Old June 29th, 2015, 07:17 AM
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Kinda depends on the age/condition of the other related components I think. My hoses and tstat and fan had 110k miles on them so it replaced them as well and of course flush the system with proper coolant.
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  #20  
Old June 29th, 2015, 07:41 AM
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I disagree with the advice diagnosis above. if it cools fine @ highway speed then the water pump is circulating the coolant and air is being forced through the radiator and it cools. If its getting hot on a trail i would suspect the fan clutch not the water pump.
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